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UNFCCC Bali: Roadmap to Eco Salvation?

Meantime World’s “Best” Island is in Trouble

The world has reached a climatic tipping point. Al Gore has spoken, scientists have reported, governments have listened and pronounced, while corporate titans have worked out ways to live with, if not profit, from global warming. It is now generally accepted that we are all in trouble, potentially serious trouble, unless radical steps are immediately taken to slow and progressively reverse global warming. Only the most diehard contrarian scientists and greediest businessmen continue to deny the reality of our global predicament. Today the debate has moved on to what needs to be done. And so the world beats a path to Bali to map out its post-Kyoto future.

“If things go wrong in Bali, we are in deep trouble”, says Yvo de Boer, Executive Director of the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change. Co-Nobelist award winners with Al Gore, the UN’s panel of climate scientists, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) warn starkly, “if we are to avert catastrophic climate change carbon (CO2) emissions need to peak in the next 10 to 15 years and fall from that time on.”

Palm Oil: Eco Villain or Hero?
How appropriate then that the UNFCCC takes place here in Indonesia and specifically on Bali, one of the nation’s 38 provinces and its most well known. Indonesia is South East Asia’s biggest economy and richest by far in natural resources. Along with Brazil, Zaire and certain other equatorial countries Indonesia possesses most of the earth’s remaining tropical rain forest. But for how long? Indonesia has the second fastest rate of deforestation after Brazil. Since 2000 it destroys an annual average of 1.44 billion hectares of forest or a country the size of Switzerland say Greenpeace and UN Food & Agriculture Organisation (UNFAO). At this rate Indonesia could lose the rest of its remaining forest within 15 years. The net result is that through deforestation and peatland destruction Indonesia, a developing country that would normally rank 41st has become the third largest producer of carbon emissions after industrial giants, the US and China.

Indonesia knows it’s in the eco dog house and not just from easily dismissed critics from developed countries, who long ago cut down their trees and are major carbon emitters. No, it’s also getting stick from its ASEAN neighbours for the haze from countless forest fires set to clear land for palm oil. Malaysian interests having destroyed most of their forests in Sarawak and Sabah now eye Indonesia’s. They promise massive wealth and over a million jobs as Indonesia takes over the mantle of No.1 producer of palm oil. All this, and it’s eco-friendly too, they say. Palm oil for bio-fuel is good, right? Not if it’s not sustainable, it’s not. It’s actually a lot worse than burning fossil fuels. And the way these Malaysian and Indonesian plantation owners have played this game is anything but sustainable. The few Indonesians who actually do get jobs won’t have them for very long, the money will disappear into the pockets of the already filthy rich, with a little of it filtering down to corrupt officials. Within a few years the land will become denatured and lie abandoned.

As UNFCCC host and anticipating some awkward criticism, Indonesia’s President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono came up with the REDD plan, which he will present in Bali, to reduce emissions from deforestation in developing countries, whereby Indonesia and 10 other forest nations would be paid by the developed world not to destroy their forests and peatland. If adopted, Indonesia could earn up to US$15 billion a year to conserve its remaining forests. This is not only fair, since it is the industrialised nations that got us into this pickle anyway, but it is also potentially one of the most dramatically effective means we have of reducing carbon emissions globally. So what’s the snag?

Nice One Bambang, but will it run?
Well, the rhino in the UNFCCC break out rooms is the awkward fact that few , including many Indonesians, believe their government can deliver. Law enforcement is very weak in Indonesia, corruption remains virtually uncontrollable, security forces have been involved in illegal logging and Indonesia’s Supreme Court takes action against corrupt judges or powerful political figures. As if to underline the point last month comes the Adelin Lis case, where one of Indonesia’s most egregious accused illegal loggers in West Sumatra’s Riau province gets let off the hook by both the country’s judges, but also the Forestry Ministry itself.

Despite the apparent hopelessness of the situation all is not entirely lost. In fact progress is being made. Most Indonesians believe that President Yudhoyono is doing what he can to rein in corruption and combat illegal logging and deforestation, that steady if not dramatic progress to this end is being made.This may not be just a fond hope. Practical and convincing evidence of an end to illegal logging in parts of Kalimantan is surfacing. The huge wooden pilings from the many river pier heads is now being offered for sale to the construction industry all over Indonesia. Clear evidence perhaps that in some parts of Indonesia at least the infrastructure for logging extraction is being dismantled.

If Indonesia and the other forest countries are to keep any forest at all it means the developed world will not only need to pay them not to destroy their trees, it means they will need to keep them honest. The best way of doing that is not just by effectively monitoring them, but by keeping the world’s multinationals like Unilever, Nestlé and Procter & Gamble honest too. After all it is they and companies like them, who buy the palm oil from the producing countries. It is they who drive the market and it is up to them to ensure the producers do so in a genuinely sustainable way. Ultimately that means that we the general public, need to be aware of what’s really going on, insisting on true not ersatz sustainability and punishing offending suppliers at the cash register.

Who’s Looking Out for Bali?
Meantime what of Bali? The magical and mystical isle once described by Nehru back in the 1950’s as ”the morning of the world”. The freshness is still there but you’ll need to travel a bit to find it, and it’s definitely under threat. In July of this year readers of upmarket US travel magazine “Travel Leisure” voted Bali the “Best island “ in the world for the sixth year in a row. This November, in the run up to UNFCCC Bali, a panel of over one hundred environmental and travel experts in a survey conducted by the National Geographic Traveller declared that Bali was ecologically “in trouble”, albeit moderate.

If Bali no longer has its forests, they came for the big trees long ago, its environmental and social problems have many of the same origins as the rest of the country. Whatever fine words and sentiments have been uttered about maintaining the cultural integrity on Bali, whatever excellent laws have been passed to protect Bali, and there have been many, the essential fact is that tourism development has been allowed to go ahead more or less at will, with little concern for the environmental effects.

The main reason for this is the centralised nature of Indonesia’s late New Order government who held power for over 30 years. Most Balinese feel that Jakarta has little empathy or concern for Bali, seeing it only as a ready source of tourism dollars. The Suharto family and cronies certainly forced through and benefited from every tourism venture of any size on the island, including some environmentally catastrophic mega projects.

It is of course easy to point at Suharto family greed, but this is just the most obvious manifestation. Every day, in big and small ways, existing laws put there to protect the beauty, cultural integrity and environment of Bali are flouted by Javanese, Balinese and foreigners alike.

The choice for the Balinese and anyone involved or cares about Bali is simple and stark. We need to follow the rules in letter and spirit. If we do that Bali can prosper and still retain its beauty and soul. if we do not, it will become a befouled theme park, a sad ghost of what it once was. Apart from enforcing regulation, the way forward is obvious. Greater financial autonomy for Bali. That way an elected Governor of the province can spread the wealth throughout the island, without it all being given over to tourism. Visitors to Bali can help too, by finding out who the environmental good and bad guys are and placing their business accordingly.

Where’s the Waste Going? Ask your GM....
Here’s one for all UNFCCC delegates and hangers on staying in the Nusa Dua enclave. Be sure to ask your hotel GM where their solid and other wastes are going? Expensive hotels tend to make a song and dance about how green they are. Well, good for them! But how far does it go? Many of Nusa Dua’s hotels simply truck their wastes back of house as it were and dump it in the little mangrove swamp remaining in Benoa harbour, badly polluting both land and sea.

What better moment in time for Nusa Dua’s 5-star hotelier’s to take a giant eco-step forward than now, when the eyes of the worlds environmentally great and the good are on Bali?

ParacelsusAsia
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