And I thought turning right onto a main road in Bali was difficult?
To turn right onto a road in Perth - you dare not make a mistake!
I have never seen so many middle fingers raised in anger as I did during my first couple of weeks of driving back here, after returning from my year in Bali. It seems I will have to re-learn some driving skills fast, or I am going to be responsible for some pretty severe road rage!
“Look Back in Anger” isn’t just the name of an old movie? Here in Oz, it seems to be the facial expression worn by many drivers….
Pent up anger lurks everywhere, just waiting for someone to make a mistake, so that the ‘true blue Aussie’ driver can blast that horn……. Even the cute young things in their Suzuki Swifts with P plates firmly attached to the windscreens - after 5 minutes driving they seem to know everything!
My daughter sits in the passenger seat with her hands covering her face in shame, as I turn right at a junction in front of the oncoming traffic. MUUUMMMM!!!!!!!!! she screams at me. When I look at her to see what the problem is, Ann shouts “look at the road”, and grabs the steering wheel…
I remember, like most new visitors to Bali, being somewhat terrified by the traffic and chaos on the roads. But after a year of driving there, I realised how it all works. The reason it works is because of the lack of aggression by the Balinese drivers.
I had adapted to the Balinese style of driving, and now expected everyone to just move out of the way of each other, as they do there. It took me about 2 weeks of being ‘visually abused’(is that the right expression), and blasted at by huge trucks on the Great Eastern Highway, before I started to get it right, and learned to drive Ozzie style again….
So that was a negative experience on returning to Oz. But it has also been good to come ‘home’, with lots of wonderful experiences. Something lovely here is the quietness of the night. After 8pm, in the suburbs of Perth, it is peaceful. Waking in the morning to the sounds of birds singing - instead of roosters, dogs and motorbikes - is just gorgeous.
A year ago, I had sold up and gone to Bali. After my husband died, I had been completely lost, and could not see a way forward. Bali was to be my healing.
Did it work? I believe so.
I decided to throw myself into Bali, and allow myself to experience the whole place as much as possible. I chatted on the beach with the lifeguards, whom I met whilst doing my boxing and fitness routines each morning. I watched sunsets with the massage ladies, and listened to their stories of struggle, and their dreams for their children. I climbed skywards through the rainforest and jungle of Mt Batukaru, arriving at the top just in time to see Bali in 360 degrees stretched out in front of me, before the late morning clouds rolled in. Simply magnificent.
I trekked to a giant waterfall in Tabanan that no-one had seen for 10 years. I watched the sunrise light up the magnificent Mt Agung - sitting with the children who spent their days selling little baskets of salt, on the beach at Amed. I stayed with a gorgeous Balinese family in Wangayagede, and learned to drink neat arak with the men of the kampung, whilst the girls watched and laughed.
I learned to surf. I snorkelled in Nusa Lembongan, and in Gili Trawangan. I learned about plants, herbs and magic. I visited a balian for healing. I went to the spectacular cremation in Ubud for Tjokorda Gede Raka and Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa – an incredible event, with the crowds rivalling that of any rock concert I have ever attended. I have taken part in wonderful Balinese ceremonies.
I have also made friends from all over the world. Something wonderful about Kuta is the melting pot of nationalities. I cannot think of another place on earth where every day a new group of people would arrive from every corner of the world to swim, surf, eat, talk and play together.
The time in Bali has taught me so much. The Balinese trait of stoicism is one that stands out for me, and is the one that I am now trying to adopt. The Balinese have struggled, and continue to struggle, but their stoicism and faith allows them to move forward every day in their lives. That has been a powerful lesson for me.
I feel that I have come back to Oz a stronger and happier person. Thank you Bali…
Liz is now living and working in Perth. She can be contacted via email: lizhayes2007@yahoo.com.au
