I was staying with Ketut’s cousins in Tabanan. I had set my alarm for 5.30am, so that I could watch the sun rise over the mountains.
I didn’t eat or drink first, as we would be home within the hour - just pulled on t-shirt and track pants, and headed off into the dawn.
We stood high in the rice fields, listening to cocks crowing, birds singing and frogs making their own wonderful sounds. The full moon was still in the sky behind, and the island of Bali was changing colours in front of us, as the sun rose majestically over Mt Agung.
At that time of the morning, it is still quiet, with no motorbikes out in the fields yet.
What could be a more peaceful start to the day?
Having watched my sunrise, and listened to the sounds of the early morning, I was hungry now, and ready for breakfast…..
So why are we stopping here?
At a nearby crossroad, a motorbike appeared. Ketut and the driver exchanged a few words. Grinning, Ketut turned to me and asked if I would like to see a secret waterfall?
“How long will it take?” I ask.
A shrug of the shoulders was the reply – but before I could say anything else the other motorbike had driven off up a mountain road, and we were following in hot pursuit.….
When the road became impassable by motorbike, we dismounted and started walking up the increasingly difficult track. It turned out that the other guy’s name was Adi, and he was another cousin of Ketut’s. From what I could glean, this meeting had been pre-arranged last night….
Why hadn’t I been told?
Not to worry. Some of my most interesting and memorable experiences have been when I have just ‘gone with the flow’. I took a deep breath, tried to ignore my hunger and the desire for a hot coffee, and marched onwards and upwards. It really was a beautiful morning, and the waterfall probably wasn’t far….
Soon, the vegetation began to get denser, and the path narrower. Then Adi removed a parang (axe) from the back of his trousers, and turned off the track to the right, seemingly into the midst of thick jungle.
We followed behind, stumbling and sliding down the side of the steep hillside, often ducking to avoid falling branches and vines, which were being ruthlessly hacked by Adi, clearing the way for us to clamber and slide down behind him.
At one stage I found myself completely stuck, with the side of my face pressed into the mud. One leg was at right angles, with my foot firmly wedged onto a tree root. However, the other leg could find no grip, and was just dangling uselessly. I was hanging onto a branch above me with both hands, not knowing how to move, and trying very hard not to cry……
Ketut and Adi positioned themselves either side of me, and I had to play the ‘trust game’, as they took a wrist each, and slowly lowered me down to the next clump of tree roots. Here, I could regain some footing, maybe a little dignity, and start breathing again!
We moved more quietly now, as my mood began to darken. Adi apologized at one stage for the state of the track. What track?
When I asked him when anyone had last been through this way, Adi thought for a while, before answering, “Ten years, I think!”
We followed the sound of the water. We continued the chopping, the trekking, the sliding and the hand over hand climbing. I cursed the fact that I was out in the jungle with no mosquito repellant, no hat, no water and no food. It was now 9.30am! We had been going for 4 hours.
Ketut and Adi wisely refrained from smiling at me too often, and I promised myself if I ever got off this mountain, I would never leave my hotel again….
Then it was there. Suddenly we were looking at crystal clear water gushing over massive, shiny boulders. It looked amazing - and sounded wonderful. As we craned our necks upward, the waterfall was high above us. A towering, magnificent, thundering cascade, with miniature rainbows dancing off to the left and right, decorating the lush border of vines and ferns.
I was speechless. It was so beautiful, and so mesmerizing. For a few moments I couldn’t move – just stood transfixed, gazing at this spectacle. All the more special for its secret and hidden location. ….
We got back to the village at midday.
I asked Ketut later, why he hadn’t told me of the plan to find the waterfall.
Balinese logic again: “In case you said ‘no’”!
I have now completed two stints of volunteer work in Bali. My first role was with East Bali Poverty Project, and the latest was for IDEP based in Ubud. For IDEP, I have been editing and proofreading a disaster management manual. (Disasters seem to be my specialty!) During this time I have traveled extensively around Bali, spending time mostly with Balinese.
To contact me: email lizhayes2007@yahoo.com.au
or phone 081 337 903 937.
