In stark contrast to Medan, the industrial strength capital of North Sumatra, Bukit Lawang is a relaxing, nay bucolic village 96 kilometers northwest of Medan and 15 kilometers west of Bohorok on the eastern edge of the massive 946,000-hectare Mount Leuser National Park.
Deep in north Sumatra's backcountry, most travelers venture here to view our close brethren the orangutan in its own habitat, then discover that Bukit Lawang is also a delightful place to spend some quality time in. People are friendly, a good many speak quite good English, and its natural attractions can even outweigh a glimpse of the world’s largest arboreal mammal.
The orangutan is now steadily heading for extinction. Although it has been illegal to hunt the animal since 1931, only about 1,000 are left in the Sumatra’s rainforests. Originally the center was a joint project of the World Wildlife Fund and the German Zoological Society. It was taken over by the government’s Directorate of Wildlife Conservation (PPA) in 1980.
Bukit Lawang has since become one of the region’s major tourist attractions. Since I am no longer able to abide hordes of tourists and school kids who flood the village and ranger’s station on weekends, I deliberately set out on a weekday morning for the memorable bus ride to the reserve through small country towns, rubber and cacao plantations and secondary tropical rainforests.
We bumped into Bukitlawang in the early afternoon. Stepping from the bus, I was immediately set upon by touts selling batik, guide services or guesthouses. Some travelers in Medan had advised me not to show any interest because then you would be stuck with him. That policy seemed to work as I started out on the path along the river to the center.
Twenty minutes later, I jumped into a wobbly canoe and was pulled across the river by cable, checked in at the ranger station and waited for feeding time with small group of other tourists. It was a strenuous 15 minute hike up a steep hill to watch the feeding of the semi-wild orangutan.
The rangers called the apes, some by name, luring them out of the trees with over ripe bananas and slop buckets of milk for the young. I tried to stay out of the way of the frenzied photographers trying to capture on film the awesome gymnastic abilities of Indonesia’s most famous primate.
Although the viewing area is totally natural, it does not take the visitor long to conclude that this is not a place where orangutan are retrained to live in the wild again. Since the apes can now come into such close contact with people, it makes it impossible for Bukit Lawang to function as a rehabilitation center. Since 1996 orangutan have not been sent here.
Bukit Lawang’s instead serves as a refuge to prevent orangutan from being slaughtered or captured, but its even greater purpose is as a propaganda and education center, an eco-tourist viewing area. The 40 or so ex-captive resident mawas, many sick, injured or orphaned, now serve as sacrificial lambs for the cause.
Since the early 1980’s tourist development has replaced the forest all along the river, now occupied by a long row of slapdash restaurants and budget guesthouses. Up to 500 day trippers visit the center each week, using the Bohorok River as a rubbish trough and bathing area.
Thankfully, besides viewing un-rehabilitatable orangutan, the Bukit Lawang area has other attractions such as a bat cave, lookout points, tubing the river or hiking in the adjoining national park with its 105 species of mammals, 103 reptiles, 382 species of birds and 3500 species of plants. For the visitor, this is a feast well worth the journey.
Where to Stay:
Wisma Leuser Sibayak (tel. 061-415-0576), the first guesthouse you come to from the bus stop, has two large complexes of bungalows along the river. Upbeat atmosphere and they serve above average food. Tariffs including breakfast, but not including tax and service: Standard Room Rp150,000, Family Room Rp450.000. Airport pickup in Medan, Rp325,000.
The modern Rindu Alam (tel. 061-457-5370) has Economy Rooms for Rp100,000, Standard Rooms for Rp150,000, and VIP Rooms for Rp200,000. Airport pickup, Rp400,000.
In the slow season, prices for budget accommodations, such as the charming Jungle Inn, along the river fall between Rp20,000 and Rp50,000. The guesthouses are family-run, plain and clean with verandas overlooking the river. Ask for a mosquito net. The food offered varies considerably in quality. Most serve Euro-style Indonesian food like french fries, fruit salads, etc. Most can arrange the jungle trek to Brastagi, into the national park or a raft trip down the Bohorok - great fun. In the evenings, join in drinking, singing and guitar playing with the locals.
The permit from the PHPA office costs Rp4500 for one day only (for each of the two hour-long feeding sessions, 8 a.m. and 3 p.m.). Tour leaders ask from Rp150,000 to Rp200,000 per day (including food and equipment) to take you trekking in the park, but you can bargain.
