The wonders of Borobudur are well known - the biggest ancient monument in the southern hemisphere, 8,235 square meters of stone surface carved in high relief, 1,500 pictorial panels, 1,212 purely ornamental panels - a colossal five-stored "cosmic mountain" constituting the largest Buddhist sanctuary on the planet.
What is less well known are the many natural, historic and cultural attractions in the countryside surrounding the monument. Few people even consider when visiting the giant 8th century stupa that their experience can be appreciably enhanced by spending the night in the nearby village of Borobudur.
This authentic central Javanese village ratchets down noticeably by early evening when all the tour buses go back to Jogja and the village is surrendered again to the Javanese. Its streets fill with pedestrians and becak, and the inhabitants become even more friendly as they are so delighted to see tourists who, as it were, are "staying over."
For the most part, these overnighters are those dedicated individuals bent on rising before dawn, drinking a glass of pitch black Java coffee, then making their way with flashlights towards the massive outline of the temple, climbing the stairs to the top and sitting in the bracing morning air to await the sunrise. In near darkness, as the visitors huddle in small groups around the topmost terraces, they witness a truly mystical experience. First thousands of small sparrows fill the air, the blurred contours of the surrounding landscapes begin to sharpen, layers of mists fill the valleys, then the sun rises slowly, silently over the cone of Mount Merapi, turning it a golden yellow.
Several hotels in the area specialize in a "Sunrise Over Borodudur" package. One is the Manohara, the only hotel established in the grounds of the archaeological park itself and within a stone's throw of Borobudur’s western side which hotel guests can see swarming ant-like with visitors while eating an above-average breakfast.
Another excellent reason to stay overnight is to get an early start in the cool of the morning and take advantage of the many things to do and see in the area. All these somewhat arcane activities can easily be arranged privately, through your hotel or travel agency.
Among the attractions are classic Javanese farm hamlets, a pottery workshop, noodle-making factory, clove-making home industry, the Muntilan market, antique shops and art galleries. A Wayang Museum, one of only two in Indonesia, can be seen in an old limasan in the rear of the Pondok Tingal Hotel complex.
The more ambitious may whitewater raft, do a cycling tour, climb and camp Mount Merapi or walk the trails of the Manohara Hills. Outlined on the ridge above, it is said, you can make out the facial profile of Borobudur's architect, Gunadharma.
Some say that after its construction he was put to death by the Saliendras to ensure that no one would ever duplicate Borobudur. They should’ve known that they had nothing to worry about. No nation or group of men could possibly ever hope to build it today.
Where to Stay & Eat:The Manohara Hotel, Komp. Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, Magelang (tel. 0293-788-131, email: manohara@magelang.wasantara.net.id). Manicured lawns and gardens, free audio visual show, free entrance into the park. Offers a 10% discount for Indonesian citizens, KTB and KITAS holders. Single rooms Rp 220,000, double rooms Rp 253,800. Prices include breakfast, a/c, bath, hot water. Their sunrise package is an extra Rp 95,000.
Pondok Tingal Hotel & Restaurant, Jl. Bala Putra Dewa 32, Borobudur, Magelang (tel. 0293-877-145, email: pondoktingal@magelang.wasantara.net.id, sales@pondoktingal.ourfamily.com). Standard (fan, outside bath) Rp 40,000, Banyumas (fan, bath) Rp 50,000, family (a/c, bath) Rp 60,000, VIP (a/c, TV, bath) Rp 150,000. Subject to 15% tax and service. Visa, Master, BCA, JCB. Rooms made completely of bamboo and wood, including the furniture. Restaurant serves homecooked Javanese food.
In a class of its own is the stunning Amanjiwa (tel. 0293-788-333, email: amanjiwo@amanresorts.com, website: www.amanresorts.com). Part of a chain of exclusive properties, located within a magnificent natural amphitheater, suites are US$575, deluxe suites US$675. Pool club, art gallery, meditation garden, boutique. To immerse yourself in Javanese culture, get hold of the resort’s "Expedition Map" and take part in volcano climbing or elephant, cycling or horseback riding excursions. Also offered are visits to antiquities, village dances and cultural festivals.
Miscellaneous:Entrance fee to Borobudur for Indonesians is Rp 5000 (students half price), for foreign visitors Rp 50,000 which includes the privilege of being pestered mercilessly by postcard and souvenir sellers.
The audio visual presentation presented in the museum, for only Rp 2000, is a real bargain. The 20-minute-long video, for Rp 50,000, in a building on the grounds of the hotel is outstanding, evocative. Also recommended is the motorized road train as it does a complete tour of the park’s perimeter, most of it unused by visitors.
Mountain trekking and river rafting on the Elo (grade II-III) or Serayu rivers (III-IV) can be arranged through Travelindo, Jl. Pringgodani 1, Yogyakarta 55281 (tel. 62-274-541-409, email: adventure@travelindo.com, website: www.travelindo.com).
