Since the early 1970s, Kuta’s six-kilometer-stretch of coastline, the longest and the most beautiful in all of Bali, has to its credit a broad crescent-shaped swath of gray sand, peerless people-watching, volley and footballing, sunbathing and sauntering, as well as excellent recreational waves of up to two meters, fanned and given shape by offshore winds for at least nine months of the year.
But many say Kuta may just be too famous. The beach can be congested and the surf so popular that there could be as many as one hundred surfers out on a good day. It’s difficult to escape the crowds even if you paddle way out. Other problems could be inconsistent weather, hard packed sand, sneaky undertows and cross-currents.
This is why, for that special stretch of golden sand, you have to grab your sunscreen and catapult yourself far from the madding crowd. And what springs immediately to mind are the remote sun-drenched beaches of the Bukit around the southwesterly tip of Bali.
With its rock-bottom prices, endless sunshine, perfect skies, feral waves, and impressive cliffs facing the menacing Indian Ocean, this dry peninsula offers some of the premier surfing spots on the planet, as well as superb places to simply just drift off with a book.
Starting with Balungan south of Kuta, the surf becomes increasingly primal the further south - Dreamland, Bingin, Impossibles, Padang Padang - culminating in Uluwatu. The closer you get to Ulu, the more experienced and skilled you have to be. Because of its dangerous rip tides which can take swimmers far out to sea, only high-class or pro surfers need apply.
Dreamland
Of all the Bukit’s beaches, Dreamland is the most popular with Bali’s long-term residents and the consignenti. Located near the Nikko Hotel in Pecatu village, drive through an abandoned gate and past a vast overgrown landscape of a bankrupt housing estate. One of Tommy Suharto’s defunct projects, on the way displaced villagers, who have somehow maintained their good nature, will request a Rp5000 entrance fee. From the parking lot, take the stairs down to the beach.
Get there for the morning session when it’s not uncommon to witness sets of 10 waves continue for two or three hours and when the water is thick with bodies. Surfers leave their hand phone numbers with warung proprietors who are instructed to call them when the surf is up.
This is also a recreational beach par excellence. On Sunday the soft sugary sand is covered with topless women, G-stringed men, non-stop music. Rent a chair and an umbrella, order a cold Bintang, sit back and savor the spectacle while you perfect your tan. Where to stay & eat: A dozen warung, such as Ali’s Café, offer first-class morning pancakes and basic accommodations for only Rp50,000 with outside toilet and shower. For a bamboo bed on an open-air bale (pavilion), pony up the outrageous sum of Rp20,000.
Considerably more upscale is The Pondok Balungan (tel. 0361-709-997, 708-029), probably the best value deal in all of Bali for groups. For the extraordinary rate of Rp250,000-300,000 per day (Rp1,650,000-2,000,000 per week), you get a fully-furnished house with air-conditioned bedrooms, western-style bathrooms and hot water, a fully-equipped kitchen, dining and living rooms, utility room (with ironing board!), a carport and twice-weekly maid service!
The Pondok is only 15 minutes from the airport, Nusa Dua shopping or the open-air sandfloor seafood restaurants of Jimbaran. If taking a taxi, after turning onto to Jl. Uluwatu and climbing the hill (watch out for slow-moving trucks), follow the road until you see a green sign on the left: BALUNGAN, BALI CLIFF, ULUWATU. On the corner to your right you’ll see the group of 32 two-story town houses.
MedewiBecause of its distance from Kuta and the absence of nightclubs or bars anywhere in the vicinity, there are no problems with the high, long rolling waves of Medewi becoming crowded. Located in far-off Jembrana Regency, take the main road west of Denpasar via Tabanan for about 75 kilometers (2.5 hours).
As they are everywhere in Bali, the locals are extremely friendly both in and out of the surf. Medewi’s spectacular sunsets and cool tropical evenings add a touch of glamour. The beach is rocky, not for sunbathing. The best surf is early in the mornings, when the most people are out.
Where to Stay: The few accommodations in this isolated place are high quality for the price asked. The top is Medewi Beach Cottages (tel. 0365-40029, 40030; fax 0365-41555, 40034) with spacious rooms (but small terraces), satellite TV, refrigerator, hot water, manicured gardens with stately palms, big swimming pool. Peaceful and quiet, with just the sound of surf. Tarifs: Ocean View Rp465,000 double, Rp427,000 single; Garden View Rp350,000 double, Rp310,000 single.
A less-expensive alternative is the charming Warung & Homestay Gede II (handphone 081-2397-6668), a short walk along the rocky beach to the north. Ibu Ketut - the lady with the big smile - serves up inexpensive and delicious food in her open-air café looking out to sea. Funky but clean and breezy lumbung-style raised bungalows cost an irresistible Rp40,000 double with fan.
