One of the strangest, most remote and mysterious archaeological sites in all of Southeast Asia is found in the 70-kilometer-long Pasemah Highlands of the Bukit Barisan range in southern Sumatra. Located between Lahat and Pagaralam are 26 sites consisting of carved boulders, chamber tombs and terraced sanctuaries.
These remains, which may date as far back as A.D. 100, are said to be the most concentrated collection of monumental symbolic culture in Indonesia, a treasure throve of permanent late prehistoric Sumatran culture.
Pasemah stone art is significant because the region developed its own unilinear techniques and styles before coastal Indianized influences made inroads. Possibly during the 6th and 7th centuries this unique highland culture had political and economic ties with the Sriwijaya Empire centered on Palembang to which it is linked by river.
Huge queerly-shaped stones are carved into heroic figures with dramatic facial figures: warriors mounted on elephants and buffaloes, men wrestling a huge snake, animals copulating, boars, frogs, owls, freestanding tigers, a footprint, waterwheel, even ocean waves.
A great number of these extraordinary artworks, menhir, dolmens and subterranean stone cist graves were erected at a time when metals were already known in the area. Figures carry swords and sport helmets, rings and anklets. They also hold giant bronze Dong Son-style kettledrums - artefacts and implements all belonging to the Bronze Age of 2000-2500 years ago.
Regrettably, because there’s nothing like seeing the carvings in situ, the most exquisite Pasemah specimens are displayed in the yard of Museum Balaputradewa, about 5.5 kilometers from downtown Palembang. Their purpose yet unknown, the carvings are crude but powerful. Some chamber walls display zoomorphic paintings with pigments of yellow and red clay and charcoal.
Many of the figures appear at first to be three-dimensional but are in fact basreliefs, the illusion created by the skilful use of the curved surface of the boulders. Although ostensibly following the Muslim faith, some modern-day Pasemahans still use some statuary as vow-redemption shrines, calling upon their ancestors to bestow blessings and stave off ill-fortune.
Practicalities
The nearest town to the Pasemah sites is Pagaralam, a busy, cool and attractive market town at 650-meters altitude. No place to change money, so take enough rupiah. Hotel Mirasa, on Jl. Mayor Ruslan on the edge of town (tel. 0730-21266/21484), is pleasant and quiet. Rates: Rp100,000 (including breakfast) for a plain double room with veranda and cold water mandi. The owner Haji Isma Sofyati is very helpful. The hotel restaurant has excellent cheap food and there’s plenty of eating warung and restaurants in the pasar.
If you stay at the Mirasa, you can visit all the megaliths in a one full-day program during which the friendly local kids don't leave you alone for a second. The entrance fee to the sites is free, but give a donation of around Rp2000 each for their upkeep (your guide can advise).
Local guides can be arranged through Hotel Mirasa for about Rp70,000 per day, though English-speaking ones are difficult to find. Either the guides, site guardians (juru kunci) or kids will show you around all the sites, crawl into the subterranean tombs and point out the paintings.
Alternatively, you can also ask for directions to all the megalithic sites at Mirasa’s restaurant and children can show you the way. To know what you’re looking for, check out the hotel’s photo album.
Most sites are easily visited but many are well off the main road. Serious seekers need their own vehicle which can be arranged by Hotel Mirasa for Rp150,000 per day for a sedan taxi, if one’s available that’s not too beat up.
In Tegurwangi village, 8 kilometers by bemo (Rp1000) from Pagaralam on the road to Tajung Sakti, are several carved human figures and the ruins of a tomb. Pillars are decorated with men riding elephants - very beautiful megalithic stones among amazing scenery with Gunung Dempo (3159 m) to the west towering over the whole region.
It's a nice three kilometer walk to the stone elephant and other tombs and statues at Belubai. Also check out the collection of stone sculpture in nearby Tanjung Aru. You have to charter a vehicle to get to the third site - several tombs, mostly ruined, but one still has good paintings. If the kids haven't worn you out by this time, take a bemo to Tanjung Sakti, 34 km from Pagaralam, where there's a hotsprings at nearby Pungar Bunga village.
Getting There
Palembang, the provincial capital of South Sumatra Province and the island’s second largest city, is accessible by air, sea and land. Pasemah sculptures can be seen at the Museum Balaputradewa, at Km 5.5 Jl. Jend. Sudirman. The museum, managed by the Department of Education and Culture, is open daily from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. except Mondays; 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sundays.
Bengkulu is another jumping off point. The minibus to Pagaralam takes five hours (175 km, Rp40,000) on a scenic road via Kepahiang and Tebingtinggi. Or get yourself to Lahat, just off the Trans-Sumatran Highway, then it’s 67 kilometers to the southwest.
If traveling south from Medan, North Sumatra, it’s infinitely more
convenient to simply employ the services of a professional tour company. Recommended is Tri Jaya Tour & Travel, Jl. Duta Wisata 58, Box 1223, Medan 20001, tel. (061) 786-3325, fax. (061) 786-3324, website: www.trijaya-travel.com. Tri Jaya is reputable, they use first-class guides and drivers, and their programs are well-designed and thorough. Contact Diana Pardamean or historian Dirk A. Buiskool via email:trijaya@attglobal.net.
E-mail : pakbill2003@yahoo.com
Copyright@2003 PakBill
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