Tomohon lies in the heart of Minahasa, a narrow 600-kilometer-long narrow peninsula in far northern Sulawesi, a vast and bountiful land of coconut and clove plantations, active volcanoes, high mountain lakes, picturesque villages and ancient burial sites.
The human geography is equally as fascinating, a mix of peoples from Indonesia, mainland Southeast Asia, the Philippines, and the ex-colonial countries of Spain, Portugal and the Netherlands, all comprising the present day Minahasan ethnic group living in the densely populated valleys and plateaus of the interior high above the low-lying capital on the coast.
Northern Sulawesi is blessed with a higher living standard, better health care and education systems than most other regions of Indonesia. The population’s literacy rate is rivalled only by the Minangkabaus of West Sumatra.
Although presently crowded with refugees from the Maluku conflict, this largely homogenous province itself has experienced little of the ethnic unrest that other regions have endured since the fall of Suharto. It even feels like a separate republic, culturally distinct from the rest of Indonesia.
Before the war, because of the Minahasa’s close religious, military and economic ties with the colonial power, the region even became known as the "12th province of the Netherlands" and its KNIL colonial troops were called “Dutch dogs.”
There is still a considerable Eurasian mixture in the population. With their trim rose bushes, blooming sapodilla trees, window sills and porch railings lined with potted plants and neat gardens bright with hibiscus and bougainvillaea, Tomohon houses still reflect European tastes.
Most travelers head out on daytrips from Manado, but a wiser alternative is to make the cool and scenic mountains your base. Tomohon, 25 kilometers from Manado, is a windy, sunny town sitting in a saddle between two active volcanos.
Minibuses leave constantly from Terminal Karombasan in south Manado and climb up the winding road past cafes and hotsprings perching on the side of the mountain. Stop for lunch in one of these bracing roadside restaurants built out over fishponds where you may be offered not only goldfish but kawaok (fried field rats), rintek wuuk (dog), and kelelawar pangang (bat stew), all heavily spiced.
You might want to stick with the goldfish which a kitchen hand will catch, momentarily served up a glowing golden-brown (eat slowly, as ikan mas contain sharp bones). Swill the meal down with the local rice gin, cap tikus.
Tomohon is one of the highest villages of the district and has a wonderfully cool climate, not unlike a European summer. From a number of vantage points the visitor can enjoy surpassing views of Manado. At night, strings of lights outline the city far below.
Known as Kota Kembang (Flower City), every wooden house seems to be draped with orchids and angel trumpets. Household gardens burst with enormous zinnias, dahlias, marigolds and perennial gladiolas. The town’s main road is
lined with flower stalls and planted with strong scented red croton shrubs.
People are friendly to the point of abduction. Tomohon is renowned for its wheelwrights who supply the bendi (horsecarts) of Manado, its streets echo with the sound of horses' hooves. The town is also known for the production of sago wines (tuak saguer) of varying potency. Durian, langsat, mango and other monsoon fruits are in abundance.
Traditional crafts are not. “The Lord gave us cloves," was an old man’s explanation of why there were so few handicrafts in evidence. During the harvest (July-October), one can hardly drive through the streets as they are blanketed with clove buds drying on mats. People’s yards are already overflowing.
Packed oplet (taxi) climb up through plantations and pine forests. Two kilometers out of town, on the road to Tara Tara, are World War II Japanese ammunition storage caves and a traditional mill powered by a fast-running stream at the bottom of a small ravine.
The area’s high concentration of hotsprings reminds one of the mountain towns of West Java. In Kinilow, 650 meters above sea level, just a few kilometers from Tomohon, is the Highland Resort, an ideal point from which to climb Mount Lokon (1,580 meters), the tourist’s premier activity of the area.
With its duck-egg blue crater lake of considerable beauty, the volcano is only one of the countless natural and cultural assets of Minahasa, a taste for which will take more visits than just one to sate.
Where to Stay:
All rates include breakfast. The area code for Tomohon district: 0431 (telephone assistance: 0431-108).
Happy Flower Homestay, Desa Kakaskasen II, Dusun I, Kec. Tomohon, tel. 352-787, handphone 081-243-01464, email: hflower@divefroggies.com. Located three kilometers before Tomohon, take the path by the PNIEL church for 500 meters in the direction of the volcano. Rates: Rp20,000 economy, Rp35,000 private cottage, Rp45,000 double deluxe, Rp70,000 deluxe bungalow.
Highland Resort, Kinilow Jaga IV, tel. 353-333, fax. 353-777, email: mail@highlandresort.info. A set of quiet, relaxing and spacious cottages nestled in the hills. Rates (15% tax & service not included): Rp200,000 standard, R250,000 superior.
E-mail : pakbill2003@yahoo.com
Copyright@2003 PakBill
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