Lake Maninjau: Poet’s Retreat In Unspoiled Sumatra

Known for its culture, remote location and great natural beauty, this huge crater lake – at 55 kilometers in circumference, Sumatra’s third largest - lies 38 kilometers west of Bukittinggi and 50 kilometers north of West Sumatra’s provincial capital of Padang.
 
Maninjau has established itself as a popular hassle-free rest stop on the journey to and from Lake Toba. Many visitors consider Lake Maninjau more scenic, cleaner and friendlier than the more famous Lake Toba. 
 
It is decidedly less developed, more peaceful and less touristy. Its meditative surroundings have traditionally served as an inspiring retreat for famous poets and philosophers.
 
It’s appeal depends on your mood. On sunny days visitors are able to see the jungle-clad mountains clear across the lake, but on misty and cloudy days the setting is more dramatic, giving one the sense that they’ve happened upon a lost corner of Sumatra. The lake is 470 meters above sea level; the 610-meter drop from the crater's rim is a spectacular and dizzying drive or walk. 
 
With a width of 8 kilometers, a length of 17 kilometers and depths of 480 meters in places, Maninjau's deep blue, clear water is always calm. The crater holding the lake is one of the largest in the world - a wonder in itself. The water is warmer and cleaner than Toba’s. 
 
There are facilities for swimming, fishing and boating, but few beaches. Guesthouses rent out dugout canoes and inner tubes. Gratefully, speedboats and jet-skis have not made their debut just yet. The lake is remarkably devoid of watercraft except for perhau used by fisherman. Maninjau abounds in fish which are served up in the many of the restaurants along its shores. 
 
Some accommodations rent out bikes for Rp7,500 per day. Visit the warm springs, 500 meters down the road from the bus stop and a short walk in, or cycle the rough 70 kilometer road completely around the lake, three-quarters of which is unsealed.
 
Getting There
 
The ride out to Lake Maninjau in private car, bus or oplet is unforgettably scenic, passing by ricefields and tiny villages in sheltered valleys. In some sections, the road climbs up through thick forested hillsides enveloped in mists. 
 
From Bukittinggi's Aur Kuning terminal buses run regularly and take only 1.5 hours. The last bus back from Maninjau village leaves at around 4 p.m. and tends to be very crowded, but on market days buses return to Bukittinngi as late as 5 p.m. or even 6 p.m. At least two buses a day depart for Padang (3 hours). 
 
Embun Pagi ("Morning Cloud") is a small desa and lookout (1,097 meters above sea level) 30 kilometers from Bukittinggi, just before the descent down to the lake. Children will approach you selling wonderful straw purses and pandanus palm bags in an infinite variety of shapes, sizes, colors, uses and prices. Stalls sell refreshments. From Embun Pagi, it's a two-hour walk with 44 sharp switchbacks to the bottom of the crater. At times the incline is as steep as 45 degrees. 
 
Bands of monkeys congregate on the roadside, scrambling for food thrown from vehicles. Cinnamon plantations slope down to the bottom, the green reflecting in the shiny blue water like the picture of a fantasy world in a child's storybook. 
 
After descending from Embun Pagi, you reach Maninjau on the crater’s floor on the same level as the lake, a small lakeside community of government offices, the local school, post office, bank, tourist bureau, police station, used bookshops and coffee shops. The telephone office is next to the bus stop.
 
Where to Stay  
 
Strung out along Maninjau’s pebbly shore and up to half a kilometer inland are 20-odd homestays, guesthouses and several upmarket hotels, stretching from 500 meters south of where the road from Bukittinggi meets the main street of the village all the way to the five kilometer mark to the north of town. 
 
The accommodations closer to the lake are more popular and higher priced. An exceptional budget place is the clean and well-run Pillie Guesthouse (tel. 61048) right on the lake in the southern part of the village, just 200 meters from the bus stop. Basic rooms with tiled floors and bigoutside bath. Terrific balcony on the first floor.
 
Guesthouse Amai Cheap GH, Jl. H. Udin Rahmani 54 (near Pillie’s), tel. 61054, is in an old Dutch house - the most beautiful in Maninjau. Long balcony, nice rooms with old fashioned beds, are Rp15,000 single, Rp30,000 double.
 
Maninjau Indah (tel. 61018, fax 61257) is at the one kilometer marker north of the village. From any one of the porches of its front rooms you can literally jump into the lake. Rooms range from basic with cold water to another set with hot water overlooking the pool; the best rooms are in the new annex. The hotel restaurant specializes in fresh lake fish. Rent boats for sightseeing. 
 
Pasir Panjang Permai, tel. 61111, fax. 61255, on the north side of town near the 1 kilometer mark, is quiet and pleasant if you select the right room. Its Rp150,000 rooms overlooking the lake offer hot water and TV. Good breakfast. 
 
Hotel Tan Dirih, tel. 61263, is compact and clean. Cozy rooms (Rp75,000) are tiled and come with hot water and TV. Great terrace with sweeping views.
 
Where to Eat
 
Though the Srikandi’s rooms are small, hot and uncomfortable, the food offered in their small shaded garden is the best in Maninjau and quite reasonably priced. Especially good are the soups, grilled fish, stir-fries, even steaks and pizzas! 
 
With its wide selection of European and Indonesian food, another dependable place is the long-established Three Tables Coffee House south of the main road junction and across the road from Bobo’s.
 
E-mail : pakbill2003@yahoo.com
 
Copyright@2004 PakBill
 
You can read all past articles of
Indonesian Explorer at www.BaliAdvertiser.biz