According to surfer polls, 17 of the top 100 surf spots
in the world are in Indonesia. Two of the top breaks are reported
to be in Hawaii and Lombok, but very close behind is the famed
G-Land, one of the most powerful waves in Indonesia.
Located at Plengkung Bay on the southern most peninsula of
East Java, the spectacular mechanical tubes of G-Land were
discovered in the 1970s by two intrepid American surfers on
an airplane flight from Java to Bali. The long unbroken white
lines of breakers could only mean unmistakable perfection.
They later found the coastline on a map, then hired motorbikes
to reach the isolated peninsula.
The popularity of surfing has grown exponentially since the
1980s when it first began to enter mainstream sports. There
are now surf magazines, surf podcasts, and internet live cams
around the world send surfing images in real time. Radio stations
give up-to-the minute wave height readings linked to naval
buoys.
In Indonesia surfing is becoming more and more the fashion.
Owners of surf clothing labels sell massive amounts of clothing
in Bandung and Jakarta. Indonesian women – one of the
last holdouts – are even getting into body boarding
and surfing. Surfing has now become a family sport with surf
schools proliferating in Kuta and Legian.
G-land is visited for the most part by your typical good-natured
Australian who surfs hard and drinks hard. But you could also
easily meet surfers from Brazil, U.S.A., Japan - anywhere.
Hungry for fame and money, Indonesia’s best surfers
aren’t from Bali anymore but from Madura, Surabaya and
West Java.
Eco-Tourism
Although it arguably has the best lefthander in the world,
G-land is not just for surfers. Along with Banyuwangi’s
Ijen Plateau, this is also a worthwhile tourist destination
in its own right. Because G-land sits right in the middle
of a 55,000 ha national park called Alas Purwo (www.alaspurwonationalpark.com),
no full scale resorts have been developed.
Huge biawak lizards enter the camp and long-black tailed musang
that sometimes crawl up the porches of the huts and slink
along the tables in the bar areas. Common monkeys (macaques
and long-silver leafed) are also frequently spotted.
G-land is one of the rare places on Java where all species
of sea turtles come to nest. There’s a turtle breeding
beach in Nagelan, 8 km west of Rowobend. Wild pigs (babi hutan)
root in the black soil, jungle fowl and peacocks (merak) prance
about, and wild dogs (ajak), pythons, and muncak (barking
deer) are not uncommon. Banteng can be observed from the observation
tower at Sadengan 1.5 km from the main gate at Rowobendo.
The area is also superb for bird watching with 250 recorded
species such as kingfishers and migrating seabirds and whales.
Pick up literature and maps (if available) at the main gate
at Rowobendo. At Pasar Anyar, at the end of a bumpy road,
28 km from Plengkung, there’s an info center with videos,
charts, but the rangers speak limited English. Book your guide
for trekking here. The surf camps maintain CB/two-way radio
contact with the info center. The closest internet warnet
are in Purwoharjo, 45 km and 1.5 hours by motorbike.
Surf Packages
Most people who visit G-Land sign up for surf packages. Two
rival Kuta-based surf camps, Bobby’s and Joyo’s,
offer surprisingly sophisticated amenities and facilities
for such a remote area: bars, dining rooms, satellite large
screen TV, formidable sound systems, full pool and ping pong
tables, 24-hour electricity from 240 V generators. Zodiacs
take surfers swiftly to the best surf breaks.
Accommodation is in traditional thatched bungalows on stilts
(because of tidal flooding) that blend into surrounding jungle.
Each room is equipped with two single beds, mosquito nets,
bedside light, fan, balcony with comfortable chairs and table.
Joyo’s even holds yoga classes and boasts a spa/massage
facility.
Bathrooms with cold-water showers and flush toilets are usually
outside, with no running hot water, although Bobby’s
also has a/c villas with hot water and private baths. Meals
in both camps are huge and nutritious, the Bintangs cold,
and juice, soft drinks, and Aqua are all available.
In the off-season December to March, discounts of up to 20%
are offered; discounts also given to women who are always
in critically short supply. Non-surfing activities such as
fishing, diving, snorkeling, sunbathing, beachcombing, volley
ball and jungle trekking are all available.
Departures to G-Land take place at least every three days.
On average, the trip takes about 7 hours from Bali by ferry
and on overland a/c minibus. Usually free pick up anywhere
in Bali’s Badung Regency is thrown in.
Depending upon which surf camp and class of accommodations,
expect to pay (including permit) U$200-350 per person for
3 days; US$300-500 pp for 4 days, U$400-650 pp for 7 days,
and US$550-1000 pp for 10 days. All packages may be extended.
Contact the camps directly by email or access their websites.
All necessary information concerning arrangements and confirmations
will be emailed.
Joyo’s Surf Camp,
Jl. Benasari 77, Poppies Lane 2,
tel. (0361) 763-166, mobile: 746-2838,
via email: g-land@sby.centrin.net.id, www.g-land.com.
