The island of Java was the genesis of Indonesia’s
most powerful maritime and agricultural kingdoms, containing
the country’s best-preserved classical monuments, many
built centuries before Columbus discovered America. On the
rich Prambanan Plain, along a harrowing road 17 kilometers
northeast of Jogyakarta, are the most extensive Hindu temple
ruins on Java. There’s no telling how many more temples
are still under the earth.
Lying today among villages and green rice fields with the
sharp peak of Merapi in the background, most of these monuments
were built from the 8th to 10th centuries. It took staggering
agricultural productivity to enable pompous feudal monarchs
to erect these temples to their own glory. They were abandoned
when the Hindu kings relocated to eastern Java in the 10th
century. Around 1600, all extant temples were toppled by an
earthquake. In the 19th century, blocks were carried off to
pave roads and build sugar mills, bridges, railroads.
The main complex of Prambanan is Java’s largest. Its
central courtyard contains three large structures: a main
temple dedicated to Shiva the Destroyer, flanked by one to
Brahma (to the south) and Vishnu (to the north). The large
central temple, Candi Lorojonggrang, was built to contain
the remains of a Mataram king who reigned in the middle of
the 9th century and who claimed to have been a reincarnation
of Shiva. Much of the structure had collapsed by the last
century and not until 1937 did reconstruction begin.
A wonder of restoration, this tall, elegant temple is a synthesis
of both north and south Indian architectural styles. Almost
50 meters high, for 1,000 years it was the tallest building
on Java. Its lavish decorations, statues, and other details
show an outstanding sense of composition. The whole structure
is perfectly balanced; while walking around its 20 sides,
it never seems to change. The Ramayana Ballet is performed
in an open-air theatre near Prambanan nightly during full
moon nights May-August, the magnificent central Shiva Temple
serving as a dramatic backdrop.
In May of 2006, a powerful earthquake struck the Jogyakarta
area, damaging numerous archaeological structures, including
Prambanan. Full restoration could take five years. The complex’s
towers came close to toppling and many of the large carved
lotus blossoms that decorated the towers collapsed. The Brahma
temple suffered the most damage. Due to the danger of falling
debris, Prambanan’s inner sanctuary is still closed
to the public. The complex is still worth visiting.
Candi Sambisari
Since the earthquake, there’s been a sharp rise in visits
to Sambisari where the relief’s can still be seen. This
8th- to 9th-century Shiva temple lies two km from the village
of Sambisari at the end of a country lane (see the giant sign).
If driving from Jogya, turn in at the 10.2-km signpost. Possibly
part of a larger complex, Sambisari was discovered in 1966
when a farmer broke the blade of his plow against a stone.
The candi was unearthed from five meters of volcanic ash and
is unmarred by plunderers or the elements. Its main features
are stone images of Durga and Ganesha, a lovely tree-of-heaven
motif, and a makara ornamented doorway. The lintels are roughly
cut but the kala-heads appear hardly changed from the day
they were chiseled.
Practicalities
Admission into the main complex is Rp10,000 for Indonesians,
Rp90,000 for foreigners. If married to an Indonesian, the
gatekeepers can be bargained down to perhaps Rp75,000. Open
daily from 6 am to 5:45 pm, it’s best to go either early
or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat. The late
afternoon, while the sun turns the temples gold, is a good
time to take a walk through the beautiful gardens of the archaeological
park.
When setting out from your hotel each morning to explore temple
sites, watch for the small signs posted by the Archaeological
Service. Sambisari, Kalasan, and Sari lie between the airport
and Prambanan village. Lumbung, Bubrah, Sewu and Plaosan temples
all are situated north of the Prambanan complex along the
same side of the road.
Hire an andong (horse cart) near Prambanan’s minibus
terminal for about Rp25,000-Rp40,000 per hour, though it’s
more enjoyable walking in the cool of the morning on the network
of paths and lanes. Or take a bicycle. Your hotel staff can
best advise you.
Accommodations
Visitors are better able appreciate the many temples in the
area by overnighting in one of the many hotels or losmen in
and around Prambanan village. If you are just visiting Prambanan
on the way to Solo, store your backpack in the luggage room
near the entrance to the park.
Hotel Prambanan Indah, Jl. Candi Sewu 8 (tel. 0274-497-353)
is quiet and somewhat shabby, but only a short walk to the
ticket office. If it weren’t for the trees, you’d
be able to see the temple from the hotel. This hotel suffered
heavy damage but 74 rooms are available in all classes ranging
from Rp75,000 to around Rp200,000. Standard rooms are small
but clean. Restaurant. Staff can also arrange a guide.
Hotel Galuh, Jl. Manisrenggo Km 1 (tel. 0274-496-855; www.hotelgaluhprambnan.com).
Go out to Jl. Raya (Yogya-Solo) from Hotel Prambanan, take
a left and at the lights turn left and walk one kilometer
and it will be on the right. An enormous complex with 79 rooms,
restaurant/café and huge swimming pool in the middle
of an amusement park including kid’s playgrounds, go
carts, miniature train, carousel, water slides. Tariffs (including
breakfast): Economy Rp50,000 with bunk beds (up to four people);
Standard Rp85,000 with a/c; Luxury Rp95,000 with a/c, hot
water, fridge; Deluxe Rp150,000 with all amenities incl. TV.
