Surabaya is East Java’s biggest metropolis, its provincial
capital, and Indonesia’s second largest city. Although
a major business and financial center, the pace is less frantic
and the people friendlier and more outgoing than Jakarta.
Transportation, hotels, food, household goods and clothing
are also cheaper in Surabaya.
Although smaller than the capital, Surabaya’s rush hour
traffic between 5 and 6 p.m. is still horrendous. The best
way to get around the city is by air-conditioned metered Blue
Bird taxis which are found outside hotels and shopping complexes.
For shorter distances and in the old European quarter to the
north, take becak.
Shopping is a major indoor sport in Surabaya with the city’s
giant malls open from 10 am to 9:30 pm every day. A short
walk from the Sheraton, the mammoth Tunjungan Plaza’s
four interconnected buildings on Jl. Basuki Rachmat is the
epicenter for diverse shopping – restaurants, cafes
and supermarkets to cinemas, pharmacies, boutiques and bookshops
– all under one roof. Sections II and IV are best for
lower cost shopping (great clothes bargains), while the attached
Sogo Department Store is the city’s premier emporium
for chic imported goods. On weekends Tanjungan’s environs
come alive with tens of thousands of teenagers.
A popular shopping center for clothing, accessories, shoes
and handbags is Jembatan Merah Plaza (or simply JMP I &
II), a big wholesale department store in the historic district.
Labyrinthine, crowded Pasar Turi on Jl. Semarang in the inner
city is one of the largest traditional people’s markets
in eastern Indonesia selling clothes, inexpensive electronics,
house wares and used books.
For higher-end electronics and handphones, visit the World
Trade Centre on Jl. Pemuda; best for computers and IT equipment
is the THR Mall on Jl. Kusuma Bangsa. Shoe stores are concentrated
in the Pasar Blauran area. Two-storey Pasar Atum is where
local Chinese go for tailoring and dressmaking, and the large
colorful Arab wholesale market (pasar rakyat) at Pasar Ampel
is the place to go for Muslim attire for both children and
adults.
The Kedong Doro neighborhood is fantastic for automobile body
work and generic spare parts (both factory and fabricated)
at half the price. For example, a rear view mirror for a Toyota
Kijang is only Rp600,000 here whereas everywhere else in Indonesia
it’s Rp1,300,000. See some splendid art deco 1912 colonial
architecture at the Post Office (Kantor Pos) at Jl. Kebonrojo
10.
In the downtown, Mirota, Jl. Sulawesi 24, tel. 031- 501 8110
or 567-6926 sells a wide range of arts, crafts, collectibles
and batik. This three-floor shop is a great place to shop
for key chains, coins, stamps, magnets, bamboo wind chimes,
traditional textiles, wood sculptures, house wares and furniture.
Because of the very cheap prices, locals also shop here.
The city boasts a huge new shopping center, BG Junction, actually
a collection of hundreds of concessions with the big box hyper-store
Carrefour as its anchor tenant. This is where you buy jewelry.
Out of the city center, other shopping complexes include Supermall
Pakuwon Indah (SPI) and Pakuwon Trade Centre (PTC) in west
Surabaya. SPI is the exclusive part while PTC has more mass
appeal. Also a pet market in PTC.
Galaxy Mall on Jl. Kertajaya Indah Timur in east Surabaya,
a 20 minute taxi from the city center, offers quality shops
featuring a multitude of international brand shoes, fashion,
jewelry, books, furniture, sports equipment. Clean, pleasant
and air-conditioned. Also a bakery, food court, restaurants,
supermarkets and a movie theater.
Where to Stay
The Sheraton Surabaya, a mature 350-room hotel with large
rooms and carpeted hallways, offers excellent and friendly
service. What is truly distinctive from a shopper’s
point of view is the hotel’s location right next to
the Tanjungan, Surabaya’s biggest shopping plaza. Magnificent
lobby with sweeping staircases leading up to the mezzanine
where the Lung Yuan Restaurant serves classic Chinese dishes.
On the same floor in the Kawi Lounge relax to the mellow sounds
of live vocalists. Also a bakery, café, snack bar.
Superb outside pool surrounded by foliage and near the ground
floor restaurant is kid’s play room. Complimentary fitness
center and jogging track. Huge breakfast buffet with a different
culinary theme each day; over 40 different dishes presented
each night. In-room high-speed Internet access. Tariff: US$80-120,
but inquire about any special “packages” on offer.
Address: Jl. Embong Malang 25-31, tel. (031) 546-8000, toll
free: 803-654074, email: : Reservation.00164@sheraton.com,
homepage: www.sheraton.com/surabaya. .
Another ideal base for shopping is the comfortable and modern
three-star Hotel Ibis Rajawali (Jl. Rajawali 9-11, tel. 031-353-9994,
email: reservation@ibisrajawali.com, www.ibishotel.com/asia)
in the “Old Town” near Jembatan Merah. An architectural
gem dating from the Dutch era, clean international standard
guest rooms cost only Rp285,000 (around US$30), complemented
with excellent facilities which include an above average breakfast,
internet access (Rp50,000 net per hour), free indoor parking,
very friendly and efficient staff. Ask for a non-smoking room
because windows don’t open. Rooms on higher floors have
wonderful views across the old city to the Madura Strait.
This hotel is within reach of four big shopping centers: Jembatan
Merah Plaza is literally across the street, Pasar Kembang
Jepung, Pasar Atum and Pasar Turi are just minutes away by
becak. BG Junction is only seven minutes by taxi. After a
hard day’s shopping, unwind and re-energize in the hotel’s
modest but adequate gymnasium and sauna.