The first discovered and most famous of all the Indonesian islands, today the islands of Maluku are amongst Indonesia’s most unexplored and least developed. These were the original “Spice Islands” of Dutch colonial history that spurred Columbus to cross the Atlantic and discover America. Fought over by Spanish, Portuguese, British and Dutch merchant fleets for their precious nutmeg and cloves, the fabulous wealth of these islands changed the world’s balance of power in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Ambon is the jewel of Maluku. Predominantly Christian, the island is a “mini-Maluku,” offering stunning tropical landscapes, historic buildings, churches and ruins, charming country walks, and fascinating kampung with traditions intact. On this horseshoe-shaped (48 km by 22 km) island you can witness some of the most spectacular vistas in the whole archipelago. This paradisiacal island, unbelievably, was the scene of a bloody conflict from 1999 to 2000 and is still – undeservedly - suffering from a serious image problem. A peace treaty was signed in 2002 and life has settled down considerably since then.
The island’s dive industry, though small, is very active. Maluku Divers, Ambon’s only professional dive outfit, has hosted hundreds divers attracted by the incredible marine diversity across Maluku. Among the world class critters regularly sighted are the elusive Rhinopias, Flamboyant Cuttlefish and Inimicus. For the reef-orientated diver, intense schooling marine life, various shark species, hefty tuna and mobula rays are all found along pristine coral encrusted walls and slopes. The excellent diving is made increasingly attractive due to the relatively low numbers of divers who are making their way to Ambon to dive before the crowds arrive!
Every dive experience is memorable, but climbing a nutmeg tree, or cooking grilled fish on the beach at sunset with the locals is what people seem to remember the most about their time in Ambon. The handicraft industry and the island’s cultural performers also do much to attract visitors and bolster Maluku’s image. The culture in Maluku feels very Hawaiian in many ways. The haunting Commonwealth War Cemetery, the comprehensive Siwalima Museum, and picturesque walks are some other tourist favorites, particularly the hike through forested hills and traditional villages from Soya to Kilang.
No special permits are needed to visit Ambon or the rest of Maluku. Upon arrival at Pattimura Airport, a member of your hotel staff or dive outfit will take your passport through airport security. The whole process takes only 5 minutes.
Where to Stay
Most hotels in Ambon are based in the bustling Kota area. The two below are recommended because they are part of the small group of starred hotels in Ambon. Both are clean, comfortable, serve good local food, and have easy access to ATM’s, handicraft shops, and restaurants. Manise Hotel (3-star), Jl. Mutiara 53, tel. 135-3888, 80 rooms at US$25-35-40 (Deluxe, Executive, Suite). Hotel Mutiara (2-star), Jl. Pattimura 12, tel. 091-135-3075, 25 rooms at US$22-28-34 (Standard, Superior, Deluxe). City area code: 0911.
Travel to Ambon
Garuda offers a daily flight from Bali to Makassar at 9 am, arriving 10:10 am, then from Makassar on to Ambon with Lion Air leaves at 11:50 am, arriving at 2:20 pm. Returning, from Ambon to Bali with Lion Air departs at 07:45, arrives at 10:15. Note the hour time difference between Bali and Ambon. The OW return fare Bali-Ambon is in the region of US$300. Also direct flights from Jakarta to Ambon at 5:30 am, arriving in Ambon at 10:45 am. The return flight departs at 11:30 am, arriving in Jakarta at 12:45 pm.
Diving Ambon
It’s already well known that Indonesia has some of the best diving in the world, but from a diver’s standpoint, Maluku is one of the last best kept secrets in a community that puts such a premium on finding “greener pastures”. This is slowly changing as Ambon and Maluku seem to be on the tip of every dive journalist’s tongue, with many publications running features on the diving in the region. Diving opportunities in the Ambon are so remarkable because the marine biodiversity is extremely well preserved. Nineteenth century naturalists reported how astonishing the fish and coral were in Ambon - and little has changed.
The best weather and diving conditions in Ambon are from Sept.- May, and although the months of June, July and Aug. are the rainy season in Ambon, dedicated divers can still enjoy great diving opportunities on the protected north coast and in the intriguing waters of the “Twilight Zone” in Ambon Bay. The large 100 m wreck in Ambon Harbor is also a destination site available year round.
A western managed dive centre/guesthouse, is operated by Maluku Divers (tel. 323-882) on Jl. Aman Lanite in the village of Latuhalat. Their delicious local menu concentrates on the plentiful supply of fresh fish from surrounding waters. This newly refurbished waterfront resort, with 9 ensuite accommodations with a/c and hot water, opened in 2007, and has increased the standard of comfort to be found in Ambon.
Maluku Divers offer PADI sanctioned courses from introductory to dive master level. They utilize two speedboats that visit local sites along Ambon’s southern coast and in the expansive Ambon Bay region, as well as specialized extended day trips to the further regions of Nusa Laut, Pulau Tiga and Tanjung Sial. Dive packages, which include accommodation, all meals and diving, start from US$150. Accommodation and food for non divers is just $35 per day. For reservations or further information visit www.divingmaluku.com
