For a period of 200 years, starting in the first quarter of the 18th century, Java was the key island of the Netherlands East Indies empire. Under Dutch rule Java became known as the garden of the tropics, one of the most efficiently governed tropical islands in the world. It was a wonder of colonial management, a land of punctual railroads, well-run schools, vast agricultural estates, swank mountain resorts. At that time you could telephone any point on the island from your hotel, and travel on some of the best-paved roads in all of Asia.
Among the most popular of Java’s colonial retreats were the hill stations west of Malang, East Java, on the southern flank of Mt. Arjuna. Evidenced today by the vast number of grand old Dutch villas which dot the hillsides, the area was famous for its fruits, vegetables and flowers – as they are to this day. Cooler and dryer than Tretes to the north, the attractive twin resorts of Batu and Selecta are blessed with great alpine beauty, sulfur hot springs and patches of thick misty rainforests.
These mountain villages boast broad boulevards, modern shopping centers, sumptuous hotels, numerous plant nurseries, and roadside markets selling souvenirs, bonsai plants and fruits. Because of the high, bracing climate, Batu has since Dutch times been a tuberculosis center and recuperative resort. Many of the upscale yet reasonable hotels of the area feature curative air panas and swimming pools. The area offers fresh air and superb walking trails through the surrounding hills.
Batu can be reached via Malang or through Tretes on public transport; catch a minibus (Rp5000, 30 minutes) from Malang’s Landung Sari terminal on Jl. Majen Haryono, 6 km northwest of the city centre. Batu’s bus station is on Jl. Agus Salim, one kilometer north of the town’s alun-alun. Telephone area code: 0341.
Accommodations and Food
Most hotels are found along Jl. P. Sudirman and cater to urban upper middle class Indonesians seeking an escape from the noise, heat and bustle of the lowlands. If your group consists of more than four people, you should consider renting an entire villa which is better value than hotel accommodation. There are touts at every turn willing to show you places for rent. Batu has the widest selection of accommodations, but visitors might also consider the quiet and charming hamlet of Songgoriti 3 km to the west. No matter what class accommodations, ask for a deep discount on weekdays.
In the budget category, the Ragil Kuning, tel. 593051, on Jl. P. Sudirman, rents rooms for only Rp40,000 which even includes hot water when their heater is working. Losmen Kawi, Jl. P. Sudirman 19 (just 300 meters north of the town square beside Depot Kawi), tel. 591139, is a cheerful place with 17 large rooms in the Rp45,000-75,000 range, cold water mandi, small verandahs looking out over well-kept gardens.
Colonial-style Kartika Wijaya Hotel (www.kartikawijaya.com/E.KKI.home.htm), Jl. P. Sudirman 127 (tel. 592600, fax 591004), has full facilities including fitness center, billiards, tennis court, jogging track, delightfully landscaped gardens, children’s playground with small menagerie. Built in 1891 by the Sarkies family, the original building remains with its splendid tempoe doelu façade and lobby. Rooms in the new building (Rp----250,000 to Rp300,000) are decorated according to different Indonesian ethnic groups. The coffee shop faces a beautiful swimming pool with dramatic mountain backdrop. This three-starred property is the most comfortably furnished in all of Batu.
There are many inexpensive restaurants, of every variety, along Jl. Diponegoro: Amsterdam, Ayam Goreng Pemuda, Rumah Makan Al-Madinah, Warung Bethania, Rumah Makan Mesir, etc. Near the alun-alun is a lively pasar malam. Batu is well known for its delicious apples, citrus, onions, potatoes and cabbages. The town’s emblem is even embodied in a downtown statue of an apple.
Songgoriti
Three km west of Batu, this popular recreation spot with a large public swimming pool Tirta Nirwana (open daily 7 am-5 pm, Rp7500 entrance) is surrounded by restaurants, cool gardens, stately casuarinas. Take a minibus from Batu’s terminal.
Visitors may use the pool and hotsprings at Hotel Air Panas Alam Songgoriti (tel. 593555) on Jl. Raya Songgoriti which also has a small ancient Hindu candi on the grounds. A comfortable budget alternative, with hot water and its own pool, is the Arumdalu Hotel (tel. 599764) which charges Rp75,000 per rooms.
Five km to the west of Songgoriti, in the tiny desa of Sepalu, is the gateway to the impressive 40-meter-high Coban Rondo Falls at the foot of Gunung Panderman (3,037 meters). Open daily 7 am-5 pm; Rp5000 entrance for cars, Rp2500 for motorcycles), the falls is at the end of an attractive 4-km-long bamboo-lined country road.
Selecta
Nestled on the side of Mount Arjuna, 6.5 km northwest of Batu, this pretty 1150-high village is surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery, landscaped flower gardens, vegetable patches, apple orchards and orange groves. Enjoy Taman Rekreasi’s elegant rock garden and large swimming pool with its clear, fresh water, several fine restaurants, and well-stocked souvenir stands. Local sports include horse riding and tennis.
Hotel Santosa (tel. 591006), 200 meters from the main road, is the top bargain accommodations with clean rooms and verandahs. Look for the sign. Hotel Selecta (tel. 592369) has 33 rooms and 3 bungalows. Good service and food, but the rooms are plain and the restaurant pricey. Request blankets and hot water for bathing. The hotel’s greatest asset is its proximity to the public pool.
North of Selecta, visit the little mountain town of Sumber Brantas, the source of East Java’s mighty Brantas River. Selecta is also a good place from which to strike off for the volcanoes to the north. From Junggo, hike 3-4 hours along connecting ridges to the tops of Gunung Anjasmoro (2,277 meters), Gunung Welirang (3,156 meters), and Gunung Arjuna (3,340 meters) with fine views encompassing the whole area.
