In a developing country like Indonesia, one might think a booming tourist trade on one of its prettiest islands could only be good. There are certainly some benefits. But mass tourism on Bali also creates some serious problems. One problem is economic. Mass tourism on Bali has largely been planned and implemented by the Indonesian government far away in Jakarta, or by foreigners. Few Balinese have been involved in the planning and management of most tourism products on the island. Instead, the Balinese have become the tourist attraction!
But a tiger in a zoo doesn’t make much money from its visitors, and neither do most Balinese. Most profits from mass tourism on Bali go to wealthy entrepreneurs and corporations outside Bali, while the Balinese are left to suffer the negative environmental and social impacts. All islands are fragile. Limited land means limited fresh water (among other precious resources) and thorny problems with waste disposal. Demands for swimming pools, golf courses, beachfront resorts and air-conditioning put a huge strain on Bali’s ecosystem.
It’s not well known that an average 500-room hotel uses as much water as could be utilized to irrigate 33 hectares of rice paddy. On average each room produces ten times the waste of an average family home in Bali. Yet slowly the rice paddies in south Bali are giving way to more such hotel rooms, as well as villas, shopping malls and rows of tourist shops.
Other impacts of tourism are social and cultural. The sacredness of many rituals and dances are abused for the consumption of tourists, resulting in Balinese culture often losing its meaning. Religious festivals such as Ngaben are made more ostentatious for the purpose of impressing visitors. Buildings created for tourists often ignore the Balinese philosophies that dictate traditional architecture and planning. Balinese who work in the tourism industry often prioritize their duties in the tourist world to the detriment of their traditional and social obligations in their communities.
JED – Ecotourism Network on Bali
An organization, Jaringan Ekowisata Desa (Village Ecotourism Network, www.jed.or.id/ <http://www.jed.or.id/> ) was launched in 2002 in response to the current tourism trends in Bali. With the administrative help of the Wisnu Foundation, one of Bali’s oldest and most respected environmental NGOs, it is designed and owned by the communities of four Balinese villages. JED offers wholly unique village tours to: Kiadan Pelaga, where you can take forest treks and learn about growing coffee “in the clouds;” Dukuh Sibetan, the origin of the salak (snakefruit) where you may tag along on the daily routines of one of the village women; Tenganan Pegringsingan, the ancient fortress village on the east coast with age-old traditions; and Ceningan Island where visitors may study seaweed farming, as well as swim, snorkel and surf to their heart’s content.
Inviting visitors to their villages is a way not only to raise funds for cultural and conservation activities, but also to heighten community esteem. It is an opportunity for villagers to share their pride of Bali with visitors, and present Bali as they know and love it, to the world. The result is a rare opportunity for visitors to connect with the local people and directly experience village life. These four communities have resolved to decide for themselves the future of their people, their culture and their environment.
In order to make visitors feel welcome, JED encourages participants to go with the flow and respect local ways by following such guidelines as not photographing people without asking first, not damaging gardens when out walking, not throwing away rubbish and cigarette butts, and by not wearing short skirts, shorts and tank tops (except in Nusa Ceningan). Visitors to temples must wear a sarong. If these rules seem strange, don’t be afraid to ask why!
What Visitors can Expect
Accommodation standards will vary. If you choose to stay with a Balinese family in their home, you’ll be living as they do. This includes taking an Indonesian mandi (scooping cool water over your body) rather than a shower, and in some cases using a squat toilet. All this may be very different to what you’re used to but your hosts will make every effort to ensure you’re happy and comfortable.
The food is Balinese food. Although special dietary requirements (such as for vegetarians) can be arranged in advance, there’s no a la carte menu. Some of the food may look and taste unfamiliar, but if you’re prepared to give it a try, you’ll encounter some quite tasty dishes. The food is prepared by local women trained in food hygiene. You’ll get lots of reminders to go easy on the chili. All drinking water is spring water or local water that has been properly boiled.
You might find some interesting new wildlife out in the villages. Tokek – a colorful and noisy (but harmless) lizard - may be heard at night. You might find new insects or be visited in your room by little geckos. Dogs are common and often gong-gong (bark), but rarely bite. There is little that can hurt you, but ask your guide if something worries you.
English is uncommon among local residents. But with a lot of sign language and a bit of help from your local guide, you’re sure to have some animated conversations with villagers. Most guiding will be done by one or more locals who can speak a little English and will meet you upon arrival in the village. A Wisnu Foundation guide might also be available as a backup for translation and for any other help you might need.
Bali is quite a different place outside the tourist centers. It can be beautiful, it can be untidy, it can be surprising, unpredictable and uncomfortable. By taking a JED trip you are accepting Bali on its own terms. Try learning a few words of Indonesian or Balinese. Failing words, the universal language of a smile will get you a long way towards an ultimately deeply rewarding experience.
