If the world’s oil wells were to dry up tomorrow, goods and people would still continue to move around the watery nation of Indonesia, a country which sits astride two oceans and boasts the largest – and last – fleet of wooden oceangoing sailing vessels in the world, an estimated 30,000 strong. Within the archipelago’s land and sea area of 5 million square kilometers, you can still experience leisurely travel in the 19th century stateroom style of Joseph Conrad and Somerset Maugham.
There are a number of excellent sailing tours available that are especially suited for those seeking a high level of comfort and who have a limited amount of time. These professional adventure companies operate a variety of modernized schooners out of Bali to the eastern islands of Nusatenggara. The highlights of the voyage are the islands of Sumba, Flores, Komodo and Rinca, stopping at islets and beaches along the way.
In most cases, clients must fly IAT, Merpati or Trans Nusa airlines out of Denpasar to ports of embarkation at Labuanbajo or Maumere in Flores, Bima in eastern Sumbawa or Kupang in West Timor to meet their ship. Contact information, ships’ specs, facilities, services, photos galleries, prices and all other pertinent info can be found on each outfit’s website or via email below.
Though vessels are of traditional design, most have been modified to incorporate all the Western amenities – hot water, room service, air-conditioning, safety boxes, etc. Traditional canvas sails have been replaced by lightweight high-tech sails allowing for true sailing and fantastic photo opportunities. Divemasters are very knowledgeable about the dive sites and crews are friendly and helpful. Dining rooms serve haute cuisine meals prepared by competent chefs, often accompanied by fine wines. Safety features, including GPS and satellite phones, are standard equipment.
The best time to visit the eastern seas is from April to October. Sailing is not recommended from the end of October through the end of February in certain waters, although there are parts of Nusatenggara where other routings can be taken during this period. At the end of the trip itineraries can be specially designed and extensions booked to almost anywhere, for example to Kelimutu on Flores and to the whaling port on Lamalera.
Costs depend on the ship, number of participants, length of program, extensions, etc. The fewer the clients, the more expensive the per person cost. Cruises to the Moluccas and Papua tend to be more expensive. Count on anywhere from USD150 to USD300 all-in per person per day in the low season and USD200 to USD350 p.p.p.d. in the high season.
There is no minimum number of passengers - it all depends on what the clients are willing to pay. Maximum capacity is from 12 to 18 people. Transport, accommodations, food, drinks (except alcohol), tours and cultural performances are almost always included in the price, as well as snorkeling, fishing gear and sea-going kayaks.
Leading Sailing Companies
Kararu Dive Voyages (www.kararu.com) visits some of the most exciting regions in the archipelago from Komodo to the fabled Spice Islands and as far as western Papua. Their ship is one of the largest pinisi operating in Indonesia. For Komodo, ships depart from Bali or Bima (Sumbawa); for the Raja Empat Islands, the departure point is Sorong; for trips to the Banda Sea, the departure is from either Maumere, Flores or Ambon. Domestic flights are required to all departure points.
Komodo-Liveaboard (www.felicia-liveaboard.com, www.komodo-liveaboard.com) specializes in cruises around Komodo and Flores with the focus on diving, snorkeling, fishing and visiting the dragons. Their clean and comfortable liveaboard Felicia, embarking regularly from Labuanbajo, has six shared a/c cabins with bath, and charges USD630 p. p. p. n. for a 4 day, 3 night dive trip. Their high-speed ship Feli was recently launched offering 2 day, 1 night leisure trips to Komodo for USD375 p. p. p. n. with accommodation at the luxurious new Bintang Flores Hotel in Labuanbajo.
Remote Destinations (redestin@indosat.net.id) was one of the Indonesia’s first tour companies to design specialized tours to remote areas when founder Leksmono Santoso, against the advice of everyone else in the tour business, opened a branch office in Wamena, Irian Jaya (now Papua) 20 years ago. Since then, the company has become known for its unique adventure programs which emphasize the local culture. Guests become active participants in the cruise-cum-tours - whether it means joining a chicken liver reading ceremony on Sumba or learning the traditional Timorese sword dance. Leksmono is a personable and experienced guide who obviously loves his country. Clients board their Bugis schooners in Labuanbajo, Bima or Kupang.
Sea Trek (www.anasia-cruise.com/cruising.php) pioneered cruising in traditional pinisi along the coasts of Java, Bali and Lombok in 1985. Over time they extended their tours to include islands east of the Wallace line, eventually covering literally thousands of nautical miles. Today, 90% of Sea Trek cruises start on Bali for 10 relaxing days plying along the Lesser Sunda Islands. They also make three or four 12-15 day roundabout tours of the Moluccas and Papua each year. The company’s Katharina boasts a set of sails specially manufactured in Holland and 7 air-con cabins with spacious bathrooms. Sea Trek cruises tend to sail further, carry fewer passengers and place more emphasis on distinctive onboard services and food and beverage. Their beach barbecues are famous and constitute one of the highlights during the Bali-Lombok- Bali weekend cruise which was added to the program in 2008.
No matter which sailing outfit you ultimately choose, a passage on a traditional Indonesian sailing ship is an extraordinary and unforgettable experience. On dark nights without any competing lights the stars crowd out the sky. You can play checkers and learn the Buginese alphabet with the crew, catch up on your postcard writing, try your hand at cooking curried fish and chilies in the ship’s galley, see dolphins riding the waves, crawl onto the bowsprit above a luminous night sea where a glass of Chinese wine will see you through the night like the North Star.
