The world’s most peculiarly shaped island, Sulawesi resembles anything from an open-jawed crocodile to a spastic letter “K.” Four long, narrow peninsulas separated by three great gulfs are joined in the island’s mountainous heart. Ranging from 1,800 to 3,000 meters in height, volcanoes stretch from north to south and offer unspoiled, pollution-free, breath-catching tropical scenery. Surrounded by deep seas, monsoons heave big surf onto beaches along thousands of kilometers of beautiful and treacherous coasts.
Sulawesi’s spectacular coastline, plains, mountains, inland lakes, and high, remote and uninhabited rainforests make the destination very popular with travelers. Transportation has improved greatly over the last decade, with a road now connecting Makassar in the south all the way to Manado in the far north.
Separated from any land connection to either Asia or Australia since before the last great Ice Age, Sulawesi harbors entirely unique flora and fauna. The four distinct peninsulas has meant that nearly 40% of its birds and 90% of its mammals have evolved into endemic species. Sulawesi is home to such extraordinary beasts as the babirusa, a pig-like creature with upward-curving tusks, and the anoa, a rare, fierce pygmy buffalo resembling an antelope.
One of the best places to observe the island’s remarkable natural phenomena is the impressive Tangkoko Nature Reserve in northern Sulawesi. This 8,750-hectare conservation area, 30 km north of Bitung, was established around three jungle-clad peaks and includes coastline and coral gardens offshore. A veritable cross-section of Sulawesi’s rare animal life and rainforest flora inhabit this geologically fascinating area of deep folding valleys, dry woodlands, hot springs and volcanic craters.
Although hunting has resulted in the local extinction of the babirusa, there are still plentiful tarsiers, a tiny nocturnal insect-eating primate, Indonesia’s highest density of crested black macaques, the bear cuscus, the aggressive anoa, flying lizards, the curious maleo, as well as hornbills, cockatoos, and in the coastal fringes marine birds such as frigates and sea eagles. In addition, a full range of floral communities typical of North Sulawesi are represented – from lowland to submontane and from sandy beaches to full-blown rainforests.
Practicalities
The Tangkoko Nature Reserve is beyond question the most accessible place to view tarsiers, red-knobbed hornbills and crested black macaques in the wild. First, obtain a permit from the helpful PHPA/KSDA office at Jl. Babepalar 68 Manado, tel. 0431-862-688. For complete information, go to: http://www.sulawesi-info.com/tangkoko.html.
It’s also possible to obtain a permit on arrival at the entrance to the reserve in Batuputih, where guides are also available. You have to hire a guide to explore the reserve along designated hiking trails. The best time to see wildlife is at dawn and dusk. Be sure to also bring a hat, long pants, good shoes, thick socks, extra water, insect repellant for use against biting mites, and plenty of film or a fully charged digital camera.
Getting There
There are several approaches. From Bitung, charter a boat for the two-hour journey across the Lembah Strait and along the coast to the entrance of the reserve 500 meters before Batuputih. To reach Bitung, board a bus from the Paal II terminal in Manado.
From Manado, you can also board a Bitung-bound bus 40 minutes via Airmadidi to Girian, where you switch to a small pickup or beatup mikrolet for the last 30 km (Rp75,000, 1.5 hours) on a rough road to the northern entrance of the reserve. Buses return to Girian usually between 7 and 8 a.m.
The most professional outfit for day trips into the reserve is Safari Tours & Travel, Jl. Sam Ratulangi 178, Manado, North Sulawesi, tel. 0431-857637, Skype: jhbmanado. Their office is conveniently located diagonally across from Hotel Minahasa. Safari can also arrange dive tours as well as accommodations at competitive pricing at some of the Manado area’s swankiest hotels.
Accommodations
The park office lies just on the other side of the bridge in the Christian village of Batuputih (pop. 1000). Three basic home stays near the bridge charge Rp75,000-Rp100,000 for plain rooms, the most popular being Mama Roos (8 bungalows) followed by the Tarsius Homestay and the Tangkoko Ranger. Rates include three meals (lots of ramen noodles and eggs). Electricity is on-again, off-again. No telephone.
Batuputih’s upmarket option is Parai Benteng Resort along the coast to the northeast. Traditional double cottages cost from US$46 to US$82. The resort also offers diving, snorkeling, canoeing and birdwatching. Or just hang out on their private sandy beach. Call tel. 081-2443-3754 for reservations and free transport from Girian.
Another unique accommodation is the Pulisan Jungle Beach Resort (tel. 0811430744, email:info@pulisanresort-sulawesi.com, homepage: http://www.pulisanresort-sulawesi.com/; Manado Office: tel: 0431 838185). This peaceful eco-lodge in a jungle setting is close to wonderful islands and it’s only a 15 minute walk into the reserve. Six charming beachfront Minahasa-style bungalows offer air-con luxury for US$50-80.
Exploring the Reserve
Entrance fee is Rp1500. Guides make themselves available at the home stays for Rp35,000 per person per day (Rp25,000 per person if two people). Set out early (6-9 a.m.) to the maleo nesting site to see these flightless birds scratching up leaf litter. This is also the time when hornbills and troops of black macaques are active. At dusk it’s almost guaranteed that you’ll see in your flashlight beams the tiny furry Tarsier Spectrum – at 12 cm in length, the smallest primate in the world - jumping like bright-eyed fur balls.
