When the islanders saw the water suck way out to sea on Boxing Day of 2004, most of the 25,000 inhabitants of Pulau Weh ran for the hills. When the big wave hit moments later, only 12 people died. This is an astounding number considering that over 100,000 lost their lives in Banda Aceh just 1.5 hours and 18 nautical miles away by ferry.
Today, this delightful island off the westernmost tip of the world’s largest island nation has steadily rebuilt itself since the December 2004 catastrophe. The government has repaired roads, re-installed phone lines, the island’s infrastructure now sufficient and operational with only occasional hiccups in power and internet connections.
Visitors can now thoroughly enjoy this small 154-square-km island’s superb white-sand beaches, swimming, fishing, hiking as well as outstanding diving. With its rocky coves, natural lake, hillside lookouts, harbor views, and narrow twisting roads weaving through spice groves, small villages and coconut plantations, P. Weh possesses great natural beauty with a sleepy air.
Its main town Sabang has been immortalized in the phrase dari Sabang ke Merauke which denotes the two extremities of the 4200-km-wide archipelago of Indonesia. Indonesia’s northwesterly road system actually begins on P. Weh at its celebrated “KM 0” road marker.
Weh’s relaxing cottage resorts and tasty beach side restaurants are not as cheap as comparable bungalows found on Lake Toba. This is mainly the result of the high number of NGO-workers coming over for the weekends which have inflated prices a bit, but the food - especially the fish – is still very reasonable and fresh. Be sure to cash money at better rates in Banda Aceh before arriving.
The usual way to get to Weh is either by morning or afternoon fast ferry leaving from Ulee Lheue, just 10 min. west of Banda Aceh’s city centre. A cheaper alternative is the slow (car) ferry. On Saturdays, Sundays, and Wednesdays it departs from Balohan to Ulee Lheue twice daily, while on other days of the week this ferry only does the trip once.
For a more detailed overview of Weh’s current transport schedules, as well as an excellent source for other information, check out Lumba Lumba Dive Centre’s frequently updated homepage: www.lumbalumba.com/travel.html.
Sabang
The main town of Sabang is a slow-paced port which comes to life only in the evenings. Though administered as a part of Aceh Province, the laid-back atmosphere is more akin to a distant Caribbean or Indian Ocean outpost. The town serves in fact as a sort of escape valve from Acehnese social and religious orthodoxy, as well as a getaway for busy aid workers rebuilding Aceh.
Sabang has a glamorous history. Strategically located at the northern entrance of the Strait of Malacca, one of the world’s busiest waterways, the town lies along the main trade artery between Singapore, Malacca and Calcutta. Though now hardly any cargo vessels visit the harbor anymore, before WW II the port was bigger than Singapore’s. Most of the facilities are still here, decaying, despite Sabang’s officially declared status as a freeport.
Accommodation
Most places to stay are concentrated around the beaches of Iboih and Gapang to the northwest. Of these two, horseshoe-shaped Gapang Beach has the widest range of choices. Two bungalow resorts are located at the entrance to the beach, Leguna and Flamboyan Gapang Resort.
The Leguna (Ibu Linda’s hp is 08126951415) offers spaciously laid-out bungalows for Rp150,000-Rp200,000 with or without a/c. They are not first class, but comfortable enough. Each has a bedroom, small living room, attached mandi, balcony; one even offers a fridge. Bigger family bungalows with two a/c bedrooms are Rp300,000 per night. If staying more than three nights, ask for a discount.
Also check out the simple A-frame bungalows for only Rp50,000 in the tiny fishing village of Iboih (45 minutes by minibus or taxi from Balohan); Eric’s Green House, closest to the village; Fatimah Bungalows (Eka’s hp: 085260607311); Norma’s (no telephone); the very new Iboih Inn; and Julia’s at the end of the headland facing Rubiah Island. New enterprises have also opened on the east side of the island: www.santaisumurtiga.com, www.casanemo.com and the Tuna Café (hp 081533477137).
The coziest and most convenient place to stay for divers on P. Weh are the new and roomy bungalows available at Lumba Lumba Diving Centre (bookings: info@lumbalumba.com) which even offers broadband 24/7.
Food
On Gapang are six restaurants serving local Acehnese food, national Indonesian dishes, tropical fruit salads (Rp15,000) as well as some basic Western food: pancakes, egg sandwiches (Rp15,000), French fries, “Kentucky” fried chicken and even BBQ fish (Rp25,000-Rp50,000). All fish on P. Weh is extremely fresh, the tuna excellent for making sushimi. Local versions of pizza, spaghetti and lasagna (Rp30,000) may be ordered ahead of time. Cheap and tasty original Acehnese food can be enjoyed in a family-run warung on the road junction. Local rice, vegetable, fish or chicken curry lunch or dinner runs around Rp10,000.
Diving
Weh’s greatest attraction are its unpolluted marine environments. The island has two outstanding beaches, Iboih and Gapang. Gapang, the longest, has white sand stretching halfway around the bay. Because the strand is surrounded by large overhanging gapang trees, it’s got a special atmosphere - choose to sit on the beach in the sun or in the shade of the old trees. All accommodation, restaurants and dive centers are within walking distance.
Most of the 15-20 main dive sites on the island are within a maximum of 30 minutes drive from Gapang. Indisputably the best dive outfit is Lumba Lumba Dive Centre; contact Ton & Marjan, Box 65, Sabang, Aceh, Indonesia, tel/fax (shop): + 62 652 3324133, tel/SMS (shop): + 62 811 682787, website: www.lumbalumba.com, email: mailto:info@lumbalumba.com.
Lumba Lumba’s logistics are easy going. They operate each dive as a separate boat trip, spending surface breaks relaxing back on the beach, allowing for maximum flexibility in programming to accommodate everyone’s wishes. Their rates for boat dives, including boat, full rental equipment and guide, are 25 Euro for 1 dive, 45 Euro for two dives, 100 Euro for five dives, 190 Euro for 10 dives.
The coral is stunning and diverse, with an average visibility of 20+ meters, and starts from just a few meters from shore all the way to uninhabited P. Rubiah, 200 meters offshore, declared a magnificent marine nature reserve.
If you’re lucky, you may even catch sight of the Nicobar pigeon, the closest living relative to the dodo bird and not found anywhere else in Indonesia.
