Indonesia has some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. We are part of what is known as the “Coral Triangle”, an area encompassing the Philippines, much of Indonesia, and East Malaysia. As many have said, coral is the oceans answer to the Amazon rain forest, providing an abundance of yet to be explored benefits for the environment and as a barometer for the earth’s health.
Hard and soft corals belong to a classification called stinging-celled animals, a group that includes jellyfish and anemones. The hard corals are what we think of when seeing coral on the shore or for sale. The animals live in this hard limestone structure, usually in small colonies. Soft corals are what you see wafting in the current, sometimes with a feathery appearance, other times fleshy and rubbery. The hard coral animal even more than the soft coral is extremely sensitive to environmental disturbances and thus is a good indicator of the health of our seas. Corals are easily killed by sewage seeping from land, other kinds of pollution of the seas such as toxic chemicals, dynamite and cyanide bombs used for fishing and any significant rise in ocean temperature.
Until ten years ago, East Bali was known for excellent snorkeling. Now there are only a few places with healthy coral. Off the beach snorkeling is the easiest form of snorkeling, requiring only a mask and snorkel, and preferably fins.
Starting closest to Ubud and Denpasar is Padang Bai, long known for low-cost accommodation and snorkeling at Blue Lagoon. After a hike or drive to the north side of Padang Bai, Blue Lagoon offers fish and coral right off the beach. The formerly rickety warungs at Blue Lagoon have been transformed into large buildings that include snorkel gear rentals and sand for lounging at the warung (since there isn’t any beach at high tide) plus lounge beds and a restaurant that allows you to sit above Blue Lagoon and sip your drink in the shade. The undertow and cross currents make it often difficult to get in and out of the water. The coral is not as vibrant as in previous years and is looking depleted.
Just west of the Pertamina oil storage facility between PadangBai and Candi Dasa is Amuk Bay. The Odyssey submarine tourist attraction has developed this entire area with the submarine office to the left as you approach the bay and a water sports activity area to the right. As little as ten years ago Amuk Bay was known as a pristine area, full of coral gardens. Today it is mostly covered by anemones with a few areas to the south and east struggling to survive. Close to the southern shore, there are patches of healthy growth.
Next spot to the East is Candi Dasa which has the distinct reputation of what not to do with coral! Many years ago the local people harvested the coral to use in building and to produce lime, destroying the reef. Although the diving is reportedly excellent in the area, the snorkeling off the beach is only decent in Singakirta, just south of Candi Dasa where Amarta (Rp 150,000 per night and up), a local favorite, is located. (The food at Amarta is not to be missed!) Here the coral has regenerated well and there are several coral garden areas in front of Amarta with hard and soft corals and small fishes. Locals spear fish here however and thus there are few larger fish. Also, the current can be treacherous. Even strong swimmers need to be cautious around high tide.
Past Candi Dasa and before Amlapura is Perasi, where you will find the turn-off to Pasir Putih or White Sand Beach, known for its undeveloped and beautiful beach. Snorkeling off mid-beach shows many varieties of soft and hard corals and anemones spread over a 10x30 meter area. There are several dinner-platter sized anemones with many relatives of Nemo. The undertow is always strong and the current can be fierce as well. There are several local warungs offering lounge chairs, grilled fish, and drinks. This is the one area on the East Coast that offers everything for a perfect beach day!
Farther up the East coast, Amed refers to several villages situated right along the coast. Driving along the small village road, there is Amed village proper with few guesthouses, a few restaurants, some local warungs and no coral. Jemeluk is full of small guesthouses starting at Rp 150,00 per night for one and appeals to divers and those wanting a quiet holiday. Next is Bunutan where you find the villas and resorts in the Rp 350,000 and up price range that often have live bands and games such as beach volleyball and appeal to those wanting a social holiday! If you take the coast road to Amed rather than the more usual highway, you will come to Bunutan first, then Jemeluk and Amed.
When you follow the signs to Baliku resort south of Bunutan you will find the parking area for the Japanese wreck, across from Baliku. This wreck is a small boat with many soft corals growing on it. Just to the north of the wreck is a large area of extremely healthy and colorful hard and soft corals. You snorkel right off the very rocky beach after meandering through the multi-colored and well maintained fishing boats that are on shore. This area is more known for its healthy coral than abundant fishes. There is one warung geared to tourists where you can rent snorkel gear for Rp 25,000 and have a meal or drink. Parts of Bunutan proper offer snorkeling off the beach although reportedly not as healthy and diverse as at the wreck.
Jemeluk has excellent snorkeling off the beach in a sheltered cove, making the water exceptionally calm with essentially no current. Small black pebbles with occasional white coral remains and minimal black sand make up this beach. Some dead coral as well as healthy growth characterize this area which is known for its abundance of large and colorful fishes, including large groupers coming in to feed. The area from Mama Dive to Dive Café has the healthiest coral.
For years I had heard of Tulamben, well-known for the USAT Liberty, a ship sunk by a Japanese submarine in 1942. We rented motorbikes in Jemaluk and drove up to Tulamben, about 15 km. Locals will point you to the parking area which is large enough to hold many busses. These arrive around 11am with many first-time divers. Best to get there early. The rocky shore is cluttered with people putting on their diving gear or sorting out where to snorkel. A couple of guys are selling souvenir t-shirts of the dive site.
We snorkeled out to the wreck, about 40 meters from shore. It is situated parallel to the shore and was originally over 100m long. Seeing the shadows and light filtering through the water on the school of resident jackfish that hover around the north end of the boat was the best part of the trip. There are many soft corals near the top of the wreck; there can be some larger fish and rays, depending on water and feeding conditions. When I was there the visibility was poor and it was disappointing.
Another formerly well regarded snorkeling area is just off the beach at Paradise Bungalows in Tulamben. Ten years ago it was reportedly a very healthy, well developed coral garden. Now it is mostly rubble with some corals coming back and a few very colorful fish. Nyoman, a Tulamben native and driver for White Sand Divers near the Japanese wreck, explains: “Tulamben has no current. Dirt comes down the river and covers the coral. No current to clean coral. Coral dies.” Since the coral was exceptionally healthy until recently, one can only speculate that this damage is due to deforestation, permitting the dirt to come down the mountain.
The general consensus of dive operators as well as my experience is that Jemeluk and the Japanese wreck are by far the best options for off the shore snorkeling in East Bali. As always with snorkeling, it is safest to have a buddy. Water conditions can change dramatically from tide to tide and day to day. The fish are most active early morning and late afternoon. Sunny days are naturally best and rain hampers the visibility. Snorkeling near low tide is a way to see areas that have strong currents around high tide.
For East Bali a convenient way to travel is to stay in Candi Dasa where there are many mid-range hotels, the local favorite Amarta and one backpackers lodge. From there you can rent a motorbike or take a car to Padang Bai, Amuk Bay, and Singakirta/Amarta. After this, a trip to Amed for a couple of days will allow you to complete snorkeling the East Coast.
Stay tuned for the next installment on North Bali.
