The Ubud Monkey Forest remains a focus of traditional Hindu
ritual while balancing sustainable eco-tourism, wildlife research
and management with a community forestry and education program.
This complex agenda is managed by the banjar of Padangtegal,
which has been maintaining this sacred site for generations.
Over fifty years ago, Kadek Gunarta’s great-grand father
on his mother’s side was chosen to undertake the rebuilding
of the Pura Dalem (Death Temple) in Padangtegal’s sacred
Monkey Forest near Ubud. He was the head of the village and
its ‘undagi’ -- a builder spiritually empowered
to undertake the complex rituals and measurements involved
in constructing and restoring temples. Kadek’s father
was part of the building team, and he and his brother taught
Kadek how to honour the trees they cut and how to use the
wood for building. The family’s long tradition of restoring
and maintaining temples in sacred areas includes members who
are painters and mask-makers.
Today Kadek is an active member of the banjar board for Ubud’s
Sacred Monkey Forest. Now a popular tourist attraction, the
Monkey Forest remains a potently spiritual Hindu site. There
is evidence that a temple may have been built here as early
as the 14th century. Shady paths through the Forest are thronged
during the day with visitors, monkeys, wardens and Balinese
passing through to the next village. The people of Padangtegal
come to the temple to meditate and pray at this important
ceremonial shrine. At night while the monkeys sleep, the Forest
seethes with almost tangible energy.
The entrance fee of Rp 10,000, of which 10% goes to the government
in tax, is used to maintain the temple and extensive terracing,
and acquire land adjacent to the Forest as it becomes available.
“We would like to expand the Forest by gradually buying
up the perimeter land,” explains Kadek. “We’ve
bought almost a hectare so far and planted it with indigenous
trees used in Balinese cultural activities, many of which
are now becoming hard to find. It’s important that these
resources are not lost.”
There are currently 115 species of trees in the Forest. The
Board is creating a program in which visitors can ‘buy’
a tree and plant it in the Forest, along with a plaque with
the sponsor’s name.
The Monkey Forest works with Udyana University and the Universities
of Notre Dame and Guam in a joint program to study the Balinese
long-tailed macaque monkeys and the Forest’s plants
and soil.
Community education is an important objective. The Board has
created an office and Learning Centre above the shops across
from the Forest’s entrance which will opening late October.
This will also be used as an exhibition space for Padangtegal’s
artists.
For visitors, the prime attraction is the monkeys themselves.
Three separate troops roam the treetops and paths of the Forest,
grazing, grooming each other and shaking down tourists for
snacks. Occasional conflicts over range and other issues result
in dramatic battles. Enthusiastic sexual activity is also
common. The monkeys are tolerant of local dogs; I‘ve
seen two canines confidently climb a tall, leaning tree trunk
to visit the monkeys resting there.
Fearless from decades of interaction with their close cousin
Homo sapiens, the macaques routinely snatch bags, eyeglasses
and food. A tourist purchasing bananas to feed the monkeys
(against the advice on the signs) often finds himself in a
non-negotiable position while trying to set up an artistic
photo opportunity; the models demand payment in advance and
don’t always follow through with an engaging pose. Resistance
is futile; just hand over the bananas immediately and anything
else the pirate asks for. Monkey bites can cause serious infections.
The macaques have also developed a deep interest in eyeglasses.
I’ve watched this behavior at the Monkey Forest and
the temple at Ulu Watu. There, a large male macaque sitting
on the wall plucked the expensive designer glasses from the
face of a Japanese tourist, then menaced the distraught man
with bared teeth while toying with the spectacles. When the
tourist made a determined grab for them, the monkey looked
at him coolly while tossing the glasses over his shoulder
down to the sea a hundred meters below. There was no doubt
that he was completely aware of what he was doing. I’ve
witnessed several visitors in the Monkey Forest losing their
specs, but skillful wardens often get them back by distracting
the thief with a banana. A friend of mine was held up one
hot afternoon by a large male who relieved her of her shoulder
bag containing her passport, air tickets and credit card.
None of it was ever found, although the empty bag was later
spotted hanging high in a tree.
Life as a male long-tailed macaque is a constant quest for
dominance. Sometimes a confrontation with an alpha male will
drive an aggressive adolescent out of the troop. One of these
turned up in my garden late in the afternoon recently, driving
the dogs to distraction and forcing me to re-evaluate my theory
that all creatures are fundamentally benign. There is nothing
very benign about a 10 kilogram macaque baring his considerable
incisors at you from the top of a palm tree while eyeing your
open-plan living area with interest. I suggested in the strongest
terms that he remove himself and he eventually swung down
to the forest. Kadek says he will probably return to the Monkey
Forest to be absorbed into another troop.
It’s heartening to know that the Padangtegal community
is weaving together its contemporary and historical resources
to preserve this living heritage. For more background and
cultural details, check out the new www.monkeyforestubud.com
And if you decide to take a stroll through the Forest, keep
your glasses in your pocket.
