When Bali was a much more homogenous place, with less outside influence, a smaller population and a higher majority of followers of the unique Balinese brand of Hinduism, most people believed in the existence and power of black magic. No electricity, a lack of education and knowledge about health only propounded a belief in the supernatural to ‘explain the unexplained’.
In fact, there were parts of Bali that we renowned for clusters of black magic practitioners—Sanur, for example, was for many a dreaded place to visit due to the presence of witches who regularly engaged in leyak (which often appeared as whirling fireballs) battles. Not only this, but people were also wary of attending art performances such as Calonarang, since brave protagonists often took it upon themselves to invite leyak witches to take part. I still hear stories from elders who said that anyone who dared to return home before the performances were finished could risk being confronted by manifestations of witches hiding in the village’s small alleyways.
As this island, with its mystic Hindu beliefs and daily rituals, hurtles into the modernity of the 21st century, it’s becoming harder to see evidence of belief in the ‘dark side’. In saying this, however, even amidst neon lights, hotels, malls and clubs, many still believe in the power and existence of dark forces. In fact, I regularly hear comments—from all socio-economic and educational backgrounds—about a family member or a friend who has been struck down by black magic; normally justified by the fact that doctors’ visits have not shown any pathological illness. I also still hear from Balinese who prefer not to visit Sanur if they can help it, or, if they do, are careful not to offend anyone.
So, even though the belief is less pronounced, the black magic realm is certainly still hidden away somewhere in the darker corners of the Balinese psyche.
Vaughan Hatch has immersed himself with Balinese culture, living with locals in Bali since 1997. He speaks fluent Indonesian and Balinese, and is unashamedly addicted to playing gamelan. A linguistic, archaeology and publishing graduate, he works for indOKiwi ‘linguistic and cultural solutions’ in Sanur. Email him on contact@indokiwibali.com or call (0361) 8427030 for further queries.
