As unpredictable—and probably just as controversial—as UFOs, leyak are a supernatural phenomenon most feared by many Balinese. Appearing as fireballs, strange animals (normally pig- or dog-like creatures) or demons, leyak appear as floating apparitions and, according to eye-witnesses, can move at extremely high speeds. Interestingly enough, not only Balinese claim to have seen them, but also other Indonesians and foreigners. Not only that, they do not always appear hovering over rice fields (the more ‘romantic’ version), but have also been seen in high population density areas such as Kuta.
Since the majority of people associate leyak with practitioners of black magic, it is not considered a good thing to have witnessed one. Stories of witches in the form of leyak baby snatching, spreading illness and general suffering abound—it makes sense that they don’t have a great name. However, Balinese who have studied magic or at least observed the initiation and disciple process will tell you otherwise. According to an article published in Taksu magazine by Gde Mahendra, being able to transform oneself into another form, manifesting as a leyak, is part of the process of learning magic. It is a developed skill that is learnt by all practitioners of magic, both black and white. The unique ability to take on another form may be used for good or bad and is very much in the hands of the practitioner. When in a meditative state, a practitioner focuses on certain magical symbols to the point that they emit light (like an aura) and leave their bodies to wander about experimenting with the power of their forms. These are the apparitions that some people claim to see.
However, almost nostalgically, in most parts of Bali, leyak sightings seem to be a thing of the past. This is attributed to modern times with all its chaos—seemingly these days leyak are, somewhat ironically, ‘afraid’ to show themselves.
Vaughan Hatch has immersed himself with Balinese culture, living with locals in Bali since 1997. He speaks fluent Indonesian and Balinese, and is unashamedly addicted to playing gamelan. A linguistic, archaeology and publishing graduate, he works for indOKiwi ‘linguistic and cultural solutions’ in Sanur. Email him on contact@indokiwibali.com or call (0361) 464201 for further queries.
