Every year the island of Lombok hosts an amazing cultural
event known as the “Senggigi Festival”, although
it would be more aptly named the “Lombok Festival”,
as the Festival showcases the best of arts and culture to
be found on this fascinating island.
The Festival started on 14 July, running for a full week with
an art market daily and special cultural performances held
every evening, to the delight of travellers lucky enough to
be in town to catch the free shows. This is the one week in
the year when you don’t need to travel to the various
villages to see the best of the island’s culture; the
culture comes to you!
The event starts off with a formal opening ceremony held in
the heart of Lombok’s tourism centre of Senggigi, attended
by government dignitaries and special guests from around Indonesia,
including popular Indonesian television star Ibu Connie Sutedja,
who makes a point of being at the opening ceremony each year.
And why not? The opening ceremony is perhaps the most exciting
part of the Festival, with thousands of spectators lining
the main street of Senggigi to view the parade that is the
feature of opening day celebrations.
There was a carnival atmosphere of excitement amongst the
crowd on that Saturday afternoon as the streets filled with
people eager to witness the spectacular parade. Gamelan music
filled the air and photographers jostled for position as the
first participants came into sight, proudly carrying their
banner announcing the start of the Festival. Thereafter, wave
upon wave of participants paraded by, presenting a wonderful
variety of costumes and performances to the waiting crowds.
Each district of the island is represented at the festival,
displaying an incredible array of traditional customs and
talents, particular to each village or district. Colourful
sarongs, delicate lace and luminous silks, flowers, sequins,
beads and elaborate headdresses filled the sunny afternoon
with light and colour, with everyone from charming small children
to beautiful maidens to regal old matriarchs and grandfathers
proudly representing their respective regions.
The variety of musical instruments and styles found on Lombok
is amazing. Gamelan bands paraded by with a fantastic array
of bamboo, wooden and brass instruments; some modern and some
of obviously ancient lineage. The huge drums distinctive to
Lombok, known as Gendang Belek, filled the air with their
resonant beat as the drummers danced through the street. Flutes,
delicate lute-type instruments, cymbals and percussion equipment
of all kinds, produced an extraordinary range of sounds. From
traditional Indonesian melodies to the raucous Arabian-inspired
tones of Kecimol, the Festival had it all.
Historical re-enactments and dance-theatre play a large part
in the cultural repertoire of Lombok. The parade of the legendary
Princess Mandalika drew gasps from the crowd as the beautiful
maiden was carried on her chariot by stunningly dressed “princes”,
long colourful silks flowing. The solemn ritual presented
by the contingent from Bayan, in the north of Lombok, is an
event not to be missed; drawing on the mystical traditions
of ancient times. Intricate ceremony, ritual tools and clouds
of perfumed incense, give a sense of the spiritual mysteries
that form part of the foundation of Lombok and the unique
Wektu Telu religion still adhered to in this part of the island.
The historical memory of Dutch colonisation is also re-enacted
in various forms, particularly with the amusing Rudat performances.
The soldiers in their army greens perform a hilarious pantomime,
deceptive in style, as their military precision is obviously
the result of years of hard training. As are the dazzling
demonstrations from the traditionally Hindu areas of Narmada
and Lingsar. Elderly ladies, tiny young girls and all ages
between, dance their way along the street in beautiful costumes,
feet and hands moving in the intricate motions of Balinese
Hindu dance.
The performances of the local tradition of “Peresean”
(stick fighting) provide exciting entertainment, both during
the parade and at their regular performances every afternoon
in the Senggigi Square during Festival Week. In this unique
competition, two muscled competitors pit their strength and
wits against each other, using heavy sticks to strike at each
other’s bodies and shields made from toughened cow hide
to prevent the other from striking a blow. Contestants train
for years to hone their skills, often returning from fights
with bruised bodies covered in red welts. It’s a genuine
fight, accompanied by much enthusiastic encouragement from
the crowd. A referee is on hand to make sure things are kept
fair and don’t get out of hand.
In addition to Peresean fights every afternoon, the Festival
features different cultural performances each night, usually
held in the Senggigi Square unless otherwise advertised. These
performances are free to the public. There is also a marketplace
set up during the day, with stall holders selling locally
made sarongs, ikat, pottery, and traditional handicrafts.
The Senggigi Festival is held every year, usually in mid-July.
If you are interested in authentic cultural events, unlike
any held in the other parts of Indonesia, plan to be in Lombok
at this time next year. The Senggigi Festival helps us to
appreciate the rich cultural diversity of Lombok, with the
unique blending of Balinese Hindu and local Lombok Sasak traditions
that make this island so fascinating.
