How much development can one small island take? Well, it
seems “quite a lot”… if it’s a dynamic
island like Gili Trawangan!
First “discovered” on the backpacker trail in
the late 1980s, Gili T (as it’s affectionately known)
took off as a favourite amongst those looking for low-cost
paradises to hang out in for a week or two. Back in those
days, the island was unspoilt by development and just opening
up for tourism. The beaches were spotlessly clean and the
waters just off the white sands teemed with colourful coral
and thousands of tropical fish.
Infrastructure was virtually non existent: you negotiated
a boat from the mainland and jumped off onto the beach to
embark on your personal Robinson Crusoe experience. Accommodation
consisted of simple thatched huts along the beachfront, usually
with no fan or running water – just a simple mandi and
squat toilet. Scrumptious barbecued fish dinners and the ever-present
fried rice or noodles were available in the basic coconut-leaf
shelters beach-side for the princely sum of Rp 5,000 or less.
But things had to change…the backpackers couldn’t
keep such an idyllic location to themselves forever. By mid-1990,
word had gotten around and more boats began arriving daily.
The new breed of traveller had more money and a taste for
“off the trail experiences”. Gili T fit the bill
perfectly, being easily accessible from mainland Lombok, but
still exotic enough to qualify as “not for the package
tourist”.
More thatched bungalows were thrown together to accommodate
the crowds now arriving on the island, and the north of the
island became a village of simple restaurants and accommodation.
Then the local authorities, under the Suharto regime, got
wind of the amazing potential and popularity of Gili T, and
decided to reclaim the land being used by the locals. Rumours
at the time had it that a golf course and luxury hotels were
planned to replace the rustic Trawangan beach scene. Then,
after unsuccessfully trying to intimidate the enterprising
islanders to surrender their growing businesses, the local
police and army moved in and demolished dozens of buildings
virtually overnight.
While the ugly event was considered a tragedy at the time,
in retrospect it may be seen as having cleared the ground
for a whole new direction for Gili T. The locals rallied to
reclaim what was traditionally theirs and a new bond was formed
between those living on the island and the Westerners who
were investing there. Infrastructure rapidly improved, with
environmental controls being established to protect the reefs
and beachfront. Better quality restaurants and small hotels
sprang up to meet the new demand. More locals found themselves
employed in the building and tourism industries, or in support
industries such as transport and supply.
Today Gili Trawangan is a flourishing tourism destination,
catering to every type of traveller, from luxury to budget.
Restaurants rival Bali in quality, if not numbers. There are
beachside lounges and sophisticated bars, Internet cafés,
movie “theatres” and dive centres galore. Accommodation
ranges from basic home stays to luxury hotels; yet the island
still maintains its charm and laid-back pace. No cars or motorbikes
are allowed on the island and the main form of transport is
by cidomo (local horse-carts). The beaches are still beautiful
and, although the coral close to shore is mostly gone, a myriad
of great diving locations exist further off-shore.
With all the infrastructure firmly established, perhaps it
was logical that the next stage of development would be residential.
As more Westerners came to live on the island and create businesses
there, the need would grow for suitable accommodation for
permanent residents. Family and friends come to visit and,
seeing the beautiful homes in this tropical paradise setting,
decide they want a piece of it too. And so the next level
of development has sprung into being over the past couple
of years.
Probably the first to spearhead the villa development trend
was Kelapa Villas, a luxury villa complex in the central north
of Gili T. Conceived by Simon Liddiard of Blue Marlin Dive,
the development comprises ten fabulous private villas set
in a coconut grove. Villas range from 1 to 5 bedrooms, each
with generous gardens and large, private swimming pools. Generous
use of local stone and wood has created a wonderful tropical
ambience, with stylish furnishings and quality fittings featured
throughout. Living areas are spacious and designed to take
advantage of the sunny climate of Gili T. Investors immediately
recognised the good value and all villas are now privately
owned, and available for short and long-term rental when the
owners are not in residence. Kelapa Villas already have plans
to expand their property development in the coming year.
Now the trend is taking off with a number of investors snapping
up large tracts of land with an eye to villa development.
Land prices on Gili T, while still cheap in comparison to
Bali, have tripled in value over the past three years. The
Beach House owners, already operating a successful restaurant
and hotel business in the southern end of Sentral, are expanding
their property next door with the creation of two private
villas, each with luxury furnishings and private plunge pools.
At their second property a little further south, sales have
already started on their Ko-Ko-Mo Resort development. When
complete, the resort will feature eight luxury villas, ranging
from 1 to 4 bedrooms, each with private swimming pools and
upmarket designer architecture. Smart investors will have
a holiday home in paradise, as well as taking advantage of
the professional Beach House management of their property
when not in residence.
Even the land away from the beachfront is being snapped up,
with the Gili Villas Indonesia development, just behind the
art markets, now nearing completion. Four luxury 2 bedroom
villas have been built, each featuring deluxe furnishings
and private swimming pools. Stylish design is combined with
modern conveniences, such as Wi-fi Internet and i-Pods, as
well as air conditioning, hot water, satellite TV and maid
service. Available for residential and investment, guest services
include island transfers, baby sitting and a unique personal
shopping service, with food, wine and drinks tailored to clients’
preferences.
It’s been a slow evolution over the past 20 years for
Gili Trawangan, but I think the island’s time has come…expect
to see some real changes over the next five years. While the
backpackers will no doubt lament, there’s a whole new
scene unfolding on Gili T. Think Seminyak, without the traffic
and pollution, set down on an idyllic coral island.
