It’s almost time for the start of Ramadan, the fasting
month, across Indonesia; so now is a good time to dispel some
of the myths that get aired at this time of the year.
Naughty tour guides and taxi drivers in Bali will tell visitors
not to go to Lombok during Ramadan because all the restaurants
are closed, there’s nothing to eat and none of the taxis
are operating, etc., etc. Whether this is genuine ignorance
about the nature of Ramadan, or a bid to keep the tourists
in their own backyard is debatable, but the facts remain the
same: in Lombok, it’s business as usual all year round.
It would be silly to suggest that, in the tourist hubs such
as Senggigi, Kuta and the Gili’s, hotels and restaurants
would close for the entire month and the whole island would
just grind to a halt. Nonsense – we’d all be bored!
Hotels are open for business as always, restaurants serve
meals all day, bars are open with live music and alcohol,
and the taxis run at their usual erratic pace. Many of the
locals are fasting, but non-Muslim locals and tourists are
catered for with usual Lombok hospitality. You can even have
a cold Bintang with your bacon and eggs, if that’s your
wish!
Ramadan starts with the first sighting of the new moon in
the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, which occurs around
12 September this year, and lasts for one lunar month (until
the next new moon). As Islam is the majority religion of Indonesia,
much of the archipelago will be abstaining from food, drink,
smoking and sex between sunrise and sunset each day for the
next month.
Muslims regard Ramadan as a month for exercising self control
over base desires, and for fasting, meditation and reflection.
Muslims believe that, by following the fast, they cleanse
both their bodies and souls, and thus become closer to God.
Similar to fasts and retreats practised by all the world’s
major religions, the act of fasting is seen as a sacred sacrifice
to bring the person closer to Godliness.
Fasting Muslims will wake early in the morning, to prepare
and eat their first meal for the day and to say morning prayers.
After sunrise, no food, drink or smoking is allowed for the
rest of the day until sunset. During Ramadan you will often
see the local people out walking just before sunset, to take
their minds off their hunger and passing the time until they
can buka puasa. Buka Puasa (breaking the fast) is a happy
occasion, with families gathering together to pray and share
their evening meal after a day of abstinence.
Lombok has a mixed community of Muslims, Hindus, Christians,
Buddhists and other religions, so local Muslims accept that
not everyone is fasting. For people employed in the service
and tourism industries, it’s normal for guests to be
eating, drinking and enjoying their holidays. Staff are happy
to do their jobs as usual. Most Muslims seem to agree that
it’s only the first week or so that’s difficult;
after that, the fasting becomes normal and their bodies adapt
to the new routine.
If you’re travelling in some of the outer areas and
small villages which are not geared for tourism, it may be
more difficult to find warungs open during the day. It might
be easier to buy snacks and meals to take with you, or to
eat in your hotel later. As an aware traveller, you can show
courtesy by not eating and drinking in front of fasting people,
but generally people will make allowances for that fact that
you are a guest and not fasting.
Most Lombok businesses respect the different beliefs of their
community and make flexible arrangements to support their
practices. Staff may be a bit tired, as they’re waking
up so early in the mornings and losing energy during the day.
It’s particularly difficult when the weather is hot
and people would love to have a drink, but this is part of
the test. At the end of the day, there is a sense of pleasure
at being able to overcome temptations and complete the fast.
Please be patient if most of the staff seems to disappear
at sunset – they’ve just gone to buka puasa and
will be back at work soon, smiling after a good meal and something
to drink!
