Having found ourselves on the east coast of Lombok, we had
to decide how we would get back to our home on the west coast.
We’d travelled across Lombok on the main west-to-east
highway that links the two sides of the island, which was
a quick journey on a good road. While it would be easy to
go back the same way, we’d never travelled the entire
road that runs around the top of the island from one side
to the other. Our trusty map showed a good, sealed road running
up the coast and into the mountains, but we also knew there
had been an earthquake and landslide in the northeast in the
past year, which had affected the roadway there. Nevertheless,
the thought of travelling an area we’d yet to explore
was sufficient incentive. We climbed onto the bike and, with
smiles and waves to Pak Suyanto at the Gili Lampu Bungalows,
we were on our way.
The road heading north from Labuhan Pandan was in good condition
and we flew along through towns and villages, with sublime
views of the ocean on our right. Small white sand-fringed
islands were visible further out in the bright blue water,
while the green bulk of Sumbawa Island filled the horizon.
At this point on Lombok, the two islands are very close.
Gradually the road wound up into the hills and the coastline
dropped away. We passed through small towns baking in the
hot sun; sleepy houses surrounded by fields of dry crops and
browning grass. In one, an arched entrance to the football
field proudly announced its creation in 1945 - and it looked
like the place, and pace, probably hadn’t changed much
since then.
Our bike engine settled into a steady groan while the hills
grew steeper and then became mountains, as we journeyed up
onto the eastern slopes of the awesome Rinjani mountain range.
To the left we could see the outline of the towering volcano,
with fold after fold of mountain before and beyond; green
jungle catching the sunlight as the day grew longer. The blue
waters of the Alas Strait lay far below on our right, with
the two huge islands of Gili Sulat and Gili Lawang stretching
for miles along the coast. Both these islands are uninhabited,
as fresh water is scarce, but they have great potential for
eco-tourism with their intact ecosystems, ample fishing, wetlands,
mangroves, and superb snorkelling and diving just offshore.
Near Sugian, the East Lombok government has just built two
bungalows on the beach, with a tourism information office
and trips out to the islands planned for the future.
Gradually the road meandered back down to hug the coast as
we reached the north face of the island. We passed many small
bays and pretty stretches of deserted beaches, until we came
to Obel Obel – a long black-sand beach popular with
locals for picnics and swimming. Small groups of children
played in the calm waters that lapped over the dark sand beach,
glistening with mica in the sunlight. Nearby, adults and families
sat enjoying the shade of the overhanging trees that line
the beachfront.
We followed the road along the coast until it began climbing
into the mountains again. Now it became tough going, with
large sections of the road broken by recent flooding and marred
by large pot holes which we wove and dodged around. Rising
over the crest of yet another hill, we were faced with a valley
of rock; obviously a major riverbed at one time, but some
recent disaster had carved out the depression and filled it
with acres of rock and debris. A new roadway and recently
constructed bridge rode over the top of the shambles, allowing
access to the remnants of the original road further on. We
bumped along makeshift tracks and detoured around rocks and
holes in a crazy obstacle course to the top of the island.
In Sambelia district, not far from the main town of Bayan,
the road gave way completely. We stopped the bike to stare
in amazement at the vision of a landscape strewn with huge
rocks and boulders, tossed into piles and swept into drifts
as if some insane giant had thrown a bag of gigantic marbles
across the valley floor.
With shock we realised we were seeing the results of the floods
and landslide that had struck this area in January 2006. Flash
floods sent torrents of mud and water rushing down the eastern
slope of Mount Rinjani and three rivers burst their banks.
Two people lost their lives and more than 2,500 people from
the regency had to be evacuated to nearby schools, office
buildings and mosques. Hundreds of others, including 300 residents
of Batusele village, were trapped in their homes and found
shelter on their roofs. Bad weather and the collapse of a
bridge leading to Batusele prevented assistance from reaching
the village. Residents held on to the roofs of their houses
to avoid being swept away by the deluge of mud, rocks and
logs rushing down Rinjani’s slope. Others told of battling
strong floodwaters to reach safety as the mountainside collapsed
around them.
We stood in silence at this awesome display of nature’s
power, imagining how terrifying the event must have been to
the local residents. Ahead of us, a portion of the original
road rose out of the scattered rock, the edges snarled and
broken, hanging in the air. At least 500 m further in the
distance, another section of road was visible… the space
in between was gone; empty air falling 6 or more metres to
the rocky drop below.
A makeshift side track led us around the wreckage and we continued
along the bumpy road for another 5 kms or so, marvelling at
the destruction all around. Eventually we came to the northern
town of Bayan, home of the mysterious Wektu Telu religion
that exists only in Lombok. With relief, we climbed from the
bike and rested our bruised backsides, sipping gratefully
on a cold es campur from a nearby roadside stall.
It had been a long day - we’d already travelled for
six solid hours on the motorbike and had at least another
two hours to go before we reached home. Perhaps the main road
across the island would have been easier, but we would never
have seen the paradisiacal beauty of the islands off the east
coast, the pretty beach at Obel Obel, or the majesty of the
Rinjani mountain range in all its fierce and awe-inspiring
glory.
