New Year’s Eve begins on the hot sands of Teluk Kodek, the small harbour next to Teluk Nara on Lombok’s northwest coast. The sea stretches between the mainland and the Gili Islands with not a wave in sight, as we wait for the Vila Ombak speedboat to pick us up. We skim across the smooth water and, in less than ten minutes, draw up on the beach in front of Vila Ombak, Gili Trawangan’s top resort hotel.
The beachfront is already set up for the night’s festivities, with white draped tables and chairs perched on the sand. Two huge projection screens have been erected on either side of the purpose-built stage that juts out over the ocean, so that none of the diners miss the action on stage. Trestle tables stretch along the sides for over 50 metres, ready for the feast that will be presented to those lucky guests who have chosen to celebrate the New Year at Vila Ombak.
Gili T is buzzing with excitement; the streets filled with tourists and locals. Two of our friends arrive and we meet them at The Beach House bar for a cold drink. They haven’t booked any accommodation and have already been scouring all the hotels lining the beachside, but to no avail; everything is full, even the most basic losmen. We’re lucky enough to have a room at The Beach House, (in one of the new villas no less – see Lombok Buzz), but for those who didn’t book in advance, the accommodation shortage is a problem. Hundreds of people have come to the island to celebrate and, if they can’t find a place to stay, they’ll end up sleeping on the beach, as many tourists have done before them. Such is the popularity of Gili T on New Year’s Eve!
For the next two hours we trot around the island in a cidomo (local horse cart), stopping at every hotel and home-stay. Eventually we find a room on the far north of the island for our friends. Undeterred by the inflated price, they cheerfully accept the room and hire pushbikes for the journey back to Sentral, the busy area in the southeast of Gili T where tonight’s activities will be centred. Having done our good deed for the day, we head back to the pool at The Beach House to relax before the big night out.
Walking into the party at Vila Ombak is like walking into a different world. The beachfront has been transformed into a magical space of twinkling lights and music. The guests sit grouped at elegant tables, enjoying cocktails presented in decorated pineapples. The trestle tables are now laden with an endless variety of delicious foods – sushi and sashimi, smoked salmon, bacon-wrapped oysters, pates, and too many other gourmet delicacies to list. There’s a barbecue section with sweating chefs grilling lobsters, king prawns, squid and fish. In another area, the tables groan with chicken dishes, sirloin steaks and New Zealand lamb, alongside curries, satays and Mexican dishes. Nearby there’s a pasta station, where chefs stand waiting to prepare any type of pasta you desire. The dessert section screams ‘calories!’, with platters of tiny tarts topped with meringue and fruits, cakes and tortes, ice creams and cheese boards and – the crowning glory – a tower of fresh tropical fruits topped with whole melons carved into delicate flowers. It is a feast truly fit for a king.
The evening whirls by in a kaleidoscope of music, dancing and entertainment. There’s great music from the live band, dance competitions, belly dancers and sexy dancers and, at the end, a magnificent fireworks display paints the sky overhead with thousands of sparkling lights to greet the New Year.
Even the rain was held at bay by the extravaganza presented by Vila Ombak, at least until an hour before midnight, but the warm drops did little to dampen enthusiasm. As we made our way up the street, revellers danced in the mud, blowing horns, wearing silly hats and wide grins. “Happy New Year!” everyone was shouting. The crowds spilled out of bars and restaurants, merging with each other in one long street party, from The Beach House to Tir Na Nog, to Rudy’s and beyond.
We battled through the throng, getting drenched and laughing, as we made our way north to Horizontal Bar and Lounge. The uber-trendy venue was hosting a three-day event called “Sounds of Gili”, in aid of global warming awareness, and featuring some of the best DJ’s from around Indonesia. As expected, the place was jam-packed with tourists and expats from Bali, rubbing shoulders with Lombok locals and guests from Jakarta and surrounds. The music throbbed as beautiful young things flooded the dance floor, laughing in the rain. Strawberry Margueritas and Mojitos flowed freely, along with the champagne and every other concoction imaginable. With the warm rain and the hot buzz, there was more than a bit of global warming going on at Horizontal!
In the wee hours we made our way back to our peaceful haven at The Beach House, pushing through merry crowds intent on dancing ‘til sunrise. In New York the crowds celebrated in Times Square, in Sydney the harbour lit up with fireworks, but on Gili T the rest of the world ceased to exist… this is New Year, island style!
