Lombok is an island of stunning beaches and breath-taking coastline, with many small islands sitting just off the shore (locally called “Gili”). Perhaps the most famous of these are the three Gilis that sit off the northwest coast of Lombok ~ Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. However, there are a large number of islands all around Lombok that are not yet developed for tourism, particularly those Gilis in the southwest which offer many opportunities for those looking for the true “castaway tropical island” experience.
Travelling down south, past Lembar Harbour (the main port for arrivals from Bali), the landscape is stunningly beautiful, with rolling hills on the left and small rural villages sheltering in the green valleys. On the right, the ocean stretches out, sparkling blue in the sunshine. With each corner you turn in the twisting coastal road, new vistas greet you. Reaching Sekotong, and the township of Taun, the ocean pools into a beautiful large bay that sweeps in a majestic arc of clean white sand and turquoise water.
Out in the bay, barely rising above the water, are three small Gilis – Gili Sudat, Gili Tangkong and Gili Nanggu. To the north of the bay, the mainland juts out into a peninsula and it almost seems you could walk across to Gili Sudat at low tide. The central island, Gili Tangkong, is long and wide with a small hill in the centre and, lying just to the west, is the low rise of Gili Nanggu. Of the three islands, striking in geographic similarity to the famous “Gili Islands”, Gili Nanggu is the furthermost and most developed of the three; in much the same way as Gili Trawangan in the northwest.
However, development on Gili Nanggu is much more low-key than Trawangan. At present there’s only one small hotel on the island, with some simple bungalows on the beachfront, several more up-market rooms further around the beach, and a small restaurant. It’s a lovely place for a day trip, or a relaxing hide-away for a few days, if you don’t want fancy accommodation.
It’s easy to reach Gili Nanggu from the mainland – just look for the car parking area in the centre of Taun village, which has a large sign advertising boat charter to the Gilis. From here you can hire a local outrigger boat (prahu) to Gili Nanggu, or visit all three islands for a day trip; or even arrange to go further south, exploring the other islands off the southwest coast. There are thirteen of these lovely Gilis, all within easy reach of each other and all offering interesting opportunities for exploring. Most of these Gilis, with the exception of the large Gili Gede, are undeveloped and have only small populations of local people living on them, who are generally welcoming to visitors.
The boat trip out to Gili Nanggu is lovely; a short thirty minute putter across calm waters, with just enough time to admire the sublime views in every direction. The boat pulls up right on the shore, which is sheltered by small trees, with seats and berugak (or bales) for shade and shelter. The sand is crystalline fine and soft, and so blindingly white that you really do need sunglasses on a sunny day! Lapping at the sand, the water is clear aquamarine and you can see the white sand at the bottom, and the shadows further out that mark the outcrops of coral.
In low season, there are rarely many visitors on the beach and it’s possible to feel almost alone one on this idyllic island. In high season, particularly July and August, Gili Nanggu is already popular with Europeans who appreciate the value of a Caribbean-type setting at budget prices.
One of the main reasons people come to Gili Nanggu is for the snorkelling. The small reef is just off shore in less than two metres of water, so snorkelling is easy even for beginners. There are rarely any waves, so it’s a simple as donning a mask and snorkel, and floating above the coral and fish! Snorkelling gear is available on the island, from the hotel, at reasonable prices.
Although the reef has dramatically changed since I first snorkelled there in the early ‘nineties, mainly due to the effects of El Nino and rising water temperatures in such shallow waters, there is still an abundance of colourful fish. They are so accustomed to people swimming with them, they actually come right up and brush against your body as you are snorkelling. This is one place in Lombok where you have the opportunity to observe tropical fish face to face!
Gili Nanggu is a beautiful island to visit and the snorkelling opportunities are still good, as is the swimming in the sandy areas away from the reef. You can easily walk around the whole island in an hour, and the north and west coasts are usually deserted. The restaurant at the hotel is fine for meals and snacks, and they even have a small turtle hatchery within the grounds where rescued baby turtles are rehabilitated before being released back into the ocean (visit their website at www.gilinanggu.com).
