Most visitors to Lombok know about the Gili’s in the north and Kuta Beach in the south, but few have yet discovered the pristine beauty of the southwest coast. The whole area south of Lembar Harbour is a series of stunning bays, set against a backdrop of green hills and fields. There are thirteen small islands dotted along the coast, similar to the famous Gilis, but not yet developed for tourism.
The drive itself is a worthwhile trip, as you meander through villages where life is untouched by tourism and the people are involved in their day-to-day activities of farming, fish cultivation, boating and fishing, brick-making and other traditional pastimes. At this time of the year, the fields are filled with growing corn and other food crops, and the hills behind them are green from the recent rains. Along the roadsides you will see people building and repairing boats, laying out hand-made bricks to dry in the sun, working in the fields, and sometimes guiding primitive wooden ploughs harnessed to huge water buffalo as they prepare the fields for planting.
Passing through Sekotong Tengah, mud-walled ponds called “Tambak” line the shores in geometric designs. These are used for fish and prawn farming – the tidal movement supplying fresh water in this simple, but effective form of fish cultivation. The small fish reared in these ponds are later salted and dried, often lining the roadsides as they dry in the sun, before being sold at the markets or eaten by the local families.
Heading towards Sekotong, on the left side of the road, there is a sign for Pt Wisata Bahagia Indonesia and, about 150 m on the left, is a sealed road leading up the hill. Climbing steeply, the views back down the hill and across the fields are truly magnificent. The panorama stretches out across the clear waters, highlighting the white sand coastline and the many small islands dotted just off the coast. Some of these islands have simple accommodation for travellers and are great places to visit – the Gilis of the future, no doubt! There is a berugaq (resting platform) about half way up the hill, which is a pleasant place to rest and take in the wonderful vista below.
A bit further along the main road is Taun, a peaceful village with friendly people, situated on a wide, placid bay. The ocean is sparkling turquoise and the dazzling white sand stretches in a wide sweep around the bay, while the hills behind form a perfect backdrop to an idyllic setting. Just out in the calm bay sit the three lovely islands of Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudat – all easily accessible by local outrigger boats. A small sign on the roadside just south of Pantai Villa will direct you to the local boat hire area, where you can arrange boat trips out to Gili Nanggu and the other small islands in the area, at reasonable rates
A little further on, before the local marine culture complex (Balai Budaya Laut), there is a small dirt road leading off toward the beach. This road leads out onto a dazzling white peninsular of land that juts into beautiful blue waters, with small islands just off the point. Here the white sand stretches before and behind you, while the water laps gently on the shore. Gili Genting is a small hill; a drop of an island situated just off the point. At high tide it is separated from the mainland by a shallow stretch of water and at low tide it’s possible to walk out to explore the island. The rock formations are ancient lava flows and the sea has carved all sorts of interesting shapes, tunnels and caves; providing sheltered nooks and crannies of shade… a perfect setting for a picnic lunch!
Heading further south is The Sundancer Resort, with its distinctive blue roofs dotted on the hillside overlooking another white sand beach. The villas here march up the slopes of the hill, perched on prime real estate and commanding fantastic views all around. The hotel development is still under construction and, once complete, this will be the premier accommodation in the area with luxury hotel rooms, swimming pools, a spa and privately owned villas all in this visionary resort complex.
Across the road on the beachfront is Dive Zone, the only diving facility in this part of Lombok. Dive Zone are the experts on diving around the southwest islands and have pioneered development of previously unknown dive sites in this area. They also offer island-hopping tours to explore the many islands around Sekotong and further south. A long jetty stretches out over the sea at the Dive Zone site and is one of the Sundancer facilities, with coral and fish clearly visible in the crystal clear waters below.
Further along the road, at the next intersection there is a signpost for Labuhan Poh and Pelangan, the site of Bola Bola Paradis. This is a lovely small hotel, situated right on the beachfront with comfortable and clean rooms at reasonable prices. Attractive octagonal buildings are set on the lawns leading down to the beach, with a total of eleven rooms available for those wishing to stay in the area. The hotel also organises snorkelling tours and boat trips for exploring the islands just offshore.
Even further south lays the surfing Mecca of Bangko Bangko, on the far southwest tip of Lombok. Although the road deteriorates after Labuhan Poh, it is still passable for most vehicles in the dry season. The drive to the point is dotted with bucolic scenery and tiny villages, making it a worthwhile trip even for non-surfers.
