It may seem strange when writing about an island situated on the equator to use the words “balmy tropical climate” and “cool mountain retreat” to describe the same location but, in the case of Lombok, that is possible… as we discovered when we took a recent trip to the highlands of Sembalun, in the far north of the island.
Travelling through the Pusuk Pass, a road cut through the forest that connects the cities with the north coast of Lombok, one gets an immediate sense of the ancient nature of this island. Tall trees tower overhead, trailing vines and throwing deep shadows beneath where thick jungle growth tangles with huge tree ferns and liana. The road winds and twists up, down and around the mountains, alternately plunging into cool gorges, then emerging on the slopes to throw open vistas across valleys and neighbouring mountains.
Further north, the Pusuk Pass meets the coastal road that winds around the north of the island to the east, journeying through bucolic countryside layered with rice fields, corn, cashew nut and fruit plantations, and small rural villages. Behind all is the backdrop of the Rinjani mountain range – a series of stacked mountains that peak at Lombok’s famous volcano, Mt Rinjani.
Turning off the main road at the signpost for Sembalun Lawang, we wind up through the foothills and pass more small villages where time seems to have stopped, circa 1900. Now the going gets tough as we climb into serious mountain country. For the most part the road is in good condition, easily accessible by car or motorbike, but the steep gradients strain engines and the switchbacks make acceleration impossible. We slow to a crawl, travelling through ancient forests darkened by huge trees arching overhead. Up and up we travel, until the road winds around the mountainsides and suddenly, stretched out before us, are valleys filled with sunlight and small villages dotted on the surrounding slopes.
We speed along up and down the hills, marvelling at the stunning vistas opening up before us. Tall green mountains, their sides carved into folds and ridges by ancient volcanic flows, march across the landscape; one layered after the other, as far as the eye can see. Cupped within the mountains lay picturesque valleys, filled with rich volcanic soil, forming basins to catch the rains; abundant with crops of every variety. In this cool climate it’s possible to grow plants that normally wouldn’t grow in Lombok – cabbages, lettuces, garlic, shallots, even potatoes and strawberries flourish in this soil. If East Lombok is the rice bowl of the island, then surely the Sembalun Valley is Lombok’s vegetable bowl.
We turn right off the main road and within moments arrive at our destination, Lembah Rinjani Homestay, located on a stunning plain, right at the base of the volcano. There are no hotels in the area and that is fine – the rustic accommodation adds to the charm of this timeless place. The homestay is lovely, with ten comfortable rooms set in gardens and a small pretty restaurant serving up fantastic meals at all hours of the day and night. Lembah Rinjani is one of the main centres for trekkers wishing to climb the volcano and is well set up with guides and porters experienced in all aspects of the trek. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming; like staying in a good friend’s home. The rooms are basic, but spotlessly clean and comfortable, with private terraces and western bathrooms in each room.
Many of the guests here are only staying one night; arriving in the afternoon and going to bed early in preparation for starting their climb at sunrise the next morning. Although Senaru, towards the west, is the most popular centre for trekkers, it is actually easier to reach the true peak of the volcano from the east. Experienced guides and trekkers start their trip at Sembalun, climbing up the eastern shoulder of the volcano to the treacherous volcanic peak, before continuing their trek down to the Crater Lake and then traversing the northern side of the mountain to Senaru. This is a more practical route, conquering the demanding peak towards the beginning of the trek, and allowing trekkers to take in the full beauty of the Rinjani National Park and the mountain.
It is late afternoon when we arrive and a misty rain is falling, clouds obscuring the volcano and the tops of the mountains nearby. We settle into the restaurant, pulling jumpers and jackets from our backpack and warming up with strong local coffee. The atmosphere up in the highlands is clear and clean, and surprisingly cold. Living in the year-round warmth of Lombok, it’s hard to imagine any part of the island being this cold; but the brisk air is refreshing and a welcome change from the norm.
Sunset comes quite early as the sun drops behind the mountains on the western horizon but, before the dusk sets in, we are treated to a rare visual delight when the clouds suddenly evaporate from the top half of the volcano and the huge behemoth is revealed in all her majestic glory. Soaring 3 726 metres above sea level, Mt Rinjani is the second highest mountain in Indonesia and is a semi-active volcano. The sides of the mountain are covered with vegetation; thick jungle on the lower slopes, becoming thinner at higher elevations. At the very top, the jagged wind-razed peak is barren, covered in shale and loose volcanic rock that makes climbing it a frustrating dance of two steps forward and one slide back. Climbers say the panoramic view at the top is worth every minute of the cursing and swearing, with 360 degrees of awesome scenery stretching from Bali to Sumbawa and beyond.
We rise early the next morning to catch the sunrise, determined not to waste one moment of our short time in this magnificent place. Our efforts are rewarded with glorious views as the sun rises over the soaring peaks in the east, lighting up the soft white mists that float over the trees and valleys below and throwing golden colour onto the majestic mountain at our backs. Rinjani stands in all her glory, soaring proudly against a sky that is so clear and bright blue it almost hurts the eyes.
While the trekkers wolf down hot breakfasts and don climbing boots, we climb onto our motorbike and set off to explore this beautiful valley and the surrounding mountains. We walk through jungles with stands of bamboo towering upwards to the sky. We climb grass covered hills and gasp in wonder at the pretty valleys on the other side; the multi coloured crops laid out like patchwork quilts below. Close by there is an ancient village, with a few remaining adat houses – the traditional homes of the original Sasak people of Lombok. We sit in the small courtyard and listen to the tales of the caretaker there who doesn’t know how old the village is, only saying that her grandfather’s grandfather lived there, and his grandfather before him… the generations stretching back in an unbroken chain from this small woman who still makes offerings to the stone spirits for the protection of the community.
We learn that the true name of Sembalun is made up of two words: Sembah (meaning sembayang or “to pray”), and Hulun (“leader” or “head”). The connotations are obvious; Mt Rinjani is still revered as the home of the ancient spirits said to rule over this land. For the town and the people who live at this Goddess’ feet, the ancient and mysterious energy of the volcano must be interwoven into every aspect of their lives; physical and spiritual.
It’s hardly surprising; even the most mundane person would be moved by the timeless majesty of this unique area and the awesome presence of this “seat in the Heavens”.
