Having lived in Lombok for the past ten years and having been a frequent visitor to Bali and Lombok for twenty years, it is interesting to see how both islands have developed over that time.
Bali was already a thriving tourism destination when I first stepped off a flight from Australia and discovered the Aussie Mecca of Kuta. Tuban was just starting to develop, although no one called it Tuban then, Jalan Melasti was a dirt track and Seminyak was still rice fields glimpsed from the car window on the way to Tanah Lot.
Likewise, Lombok consisted of scattered outposts of fledgling tourism areas. Senggigi had one major hotel, with a few backpacker places and tiny shops dotted along the main street, while Vila Ombak had just hung up its flashy mantle as Gili Trawangan’s sole hotel in contrast to the simple thatched bungalows on the beach.
A short trip to Bali a couple of weeks ago brought to mind memories of those early visits and I couldn’t help but compare how both islands had changed so much and yet, how different the direction of the changes have been. Bali and Lombok are only a 25 minute flight away from each other but, in terms of development and atmosphere, miles apart.
The first thing that those who know Lombok well notice is the difference in accommodation prices between the two islands. On this holiday, we decided to stay in Kuta as time and money were short. Poppies Lane 1 was an easy choice, with a good selection of “budget hotels” and close to all the places we wanted to go, but “budget” becomes a relative concept when comparing the two islands.
The majority of places in Poppies Lane cater to younger tourists and surfers who choose the location for cheap rooms and proximity to Kuta beach. Rp 250 000 – 300 000 a night gets you an average room with air conditioning in a relatively charmless hotel with a utilitarian pool. Noisy, with basic amenities and a high guest turnover, these rooms serve the purpose of somewhere to sleep, rather than to holiday.
Spend the same Rp 250 000 – 300 000 in Senggigi, Lombok and you will find yourself in one of the better hotels, with clean sheets, modern bathrooms, sculpted gardens and resort style swimming pools. Forget pokey alleys and congested one way streets; the majority of hotels in Senggigi line the main street and are either on or near the beach. Obviously, hoteliers in Bali can afford to charge more due to demand and, in Lombok, the reverse is true. Because so fewer tourists visit Lombok in comparison to Bali, those tourist accommodation dollars buy a whole lot more in Lombok!
The beaches too are a lot different in Lombok. While many of Bali’s beaches are black sand, Lombok has a coastline lined with white sands and turquoise waters. No wall to wall developments and crowded beachfronts; the scene at Bali’s southern beaches is the antithesis of the deserted, coconut-palm shaded beaches in Lombok.
When it comes to eating out, there is no comparison between the two islands. The popularity of Bali has resulted in an endless cycle of new restaurants being built and old ones being revamped. On each visit to Bali, I’m amazed that even an island this busy can support this seemingly endless opening of restaurants, bars and eateries. Visitors are spoilt for choice and one of the things I most enjoy in Bali is deciding whether to eat Japanese, Mexican, Greek, Thai or any other world cuisine I can imagine. Lombok, although boasting some very good restaurants, can’t compete in sheer numbers or variety, but again the difference in prices is evident. While it’s easy for a couple to enjoy a good meal for under Rp100 000 in Lombok, those dining bargains are fast disappearing in Bali’s increasingly up-market restaurants.
Shopping, too, wins hands-down in Bali. Lombok’s sole mall in Mataram and the modest array of shops in the tourist areas hold none of the appeal of Bali’s shopping areas, or the variety of temptations waiting on every street as soon as you step out of your hotel. Again, this is one of the pleasures of Bali for a self confessed shopaholic… I can’t imagine returning from any trip without bulging shopping bags. Judging from the number of tourists I saw likewise engaged in a “low season” March week, there’s plenty of business to keep these shops expanding at almost the same rate as Bali’s restaurants and accommodations.
In contrast, Lombok is reminiscent of the old days in Bali, when shopping was more focused towards handicrafts and the obligatory t-shirt and sarong. Shopping trips in Lombok are often incorporated into day trips to rural villages to see the ikat being woven, the pottery being thrown and fired, the wood being intricately carved, by families who proudly uphold traditions passed down through generations. The message is clear: you don’t come to Lombok for the shopping; you come for the cultural experience and maybe take home a memory.
All this is not to disparage either island; they both hold endless appeal, depending on personal tastes and preferences. There are those who prefer to live in bustling cities and those who yearn for the peace of the countryside. I believe a combination of both Bali and Lombok would satisfy the wants of most holidaymakers. I know for myself, after 5 days of “shop til you drop” and indulging my taste buds with greatly-missed cuisines, it was with a sigh of relief that I left the traffic and hustle and bustle behind and returned to the peaceful beaches and unspoilt beauty of my island home to the east.
