In Lombok we have a saying: “You can see Bali in Lombok, but you can’t see Lombok in Bali”.
This is true physically, where Bali is clearly visible just across the Lombok Strait that separates the two islands… a pyramid of an island floating on the horizon, giving those of us who live in Lombok spectacular silhouettes of the Bali’s volcano, Gunung Agung, at sunset.
It is also true of the culture of Lombok, where Balinese Hindu traditions play an important role and are particularly evident on the west coast, which faces the east coast of Bali. At full moon, hundreds of beautifully dressed women carry offerings to the temples at Batu Bolong, near Senggigi, and the beach temple in Montong, as well as at temples throughout the north of the island and in the cities of Mataram and Cakra. Chants of “Om Shanti, Shanti, Shanti Om” echo against the call of adhan from the mosques at sunset… a harmonious blending of Hindu and Muslim; the two largest religions in Lombok.
It hasn’t always been this way. Back in the 18th century the Balinese colonised Lombok, ruling the island for 150 years until 1894. Balinese influence has always centred in the west, where Balinese still constitute more than 10 percent of the population today.
The last king of Lombok, Anak Agung Ngurah Gede Karangasem, reigned over western Lombok during the mid-1800’s and oversaw development of the arts and the construction of an impressive number of temples. He also restricted the land rights of the Sasak aristocracy on Lombok, introduced an inflexible taxation system, and demanded forced labour of Sasak peasantry. The Sasak revolted several times in the 19th century, but the Balinese won through.
The Sasak War broke out in 1894. The Dutch mistakenly believed Lombok was rich in tin and supported the Sasak leaders in overthrowing Balinese, who were soundly defeated, and a number of temples and palaces on Lombok were destroyed. Many of the final confrontations ended in Puputan, the mass suicides of Balinese palace nobles, their families and followers.
Sasak leaders believed they would then have the right to rule, but the Dutch took over the Lombok, banishing the king and his remaining family and offering only minor government positions to Sasak and Balinese leaders. Colonialism intensified until World War II, when the Japanese took control of the island in 1942. Many Sasaks fought alongside Australian and New Zealand troops in repelling the Japanese. When the Japanese finally left in 1945, the Dutch returned briefly but were repelled by nationalist guerrillas and finally, Lombok was returned to the Sasaks.
Today, the Balinese have lived alongside the Sasaks for generations, and more people from Bali migrate to Lombok every year, perhaps seeking the peace and tranquillity being lost on their own island. The cultural heritage of the Balinese rulers is particularly evident in the beautiful temples and palaces at Narmada, Lingsar and the Mayura Water Palace near Cakranegara, and there are many small, historic temples located in the cities and around the west coast.
Perhaps the most obvious and compelling example of the religious and traditional harmony that exists between the Balinese and Sasaks is the Ogoh Ogoh parade, celebrated on the day before Nyepi every year in Lombok. The tradition of creating huge monsters and effigies by the Balinese Hindus and parading them through the streets has been solidly embraced by the people of Lombok and, each year, the parade has been steadily growing in popularity and importance.
This year’s Ogoh Ogoh parade through the streets of Mataram, the capital city of Lombok, was so large that it is being considered for inclusion in MURI (the Indonesian Museum of World Records). Tens of thousands of people – Sasak, Arab, Balinese, Chinese, Javanese and tourists; all those who make up the melting pot of Lombok – crowded the streets for the parade on 15 March, cheering as the giant monsters danced, leered and swayed through the city, accompanied by drums and gamelan music.
Religious and cultural differences are set aside… the event is one of mutual understanding and shared excitement. On one level it is a respected religious tradition; on another, Lombok has embraced the Ogoh Ogoh as one of its own cultural celebrations. Just another example of seeing Bali in Lombok… an amazing island in so many ways.
