My first review of Mozaic was in 2001, when the restaurant
was in its infancy. It was to be the start of a chef’s
dream; a dream to create a fine dining experience in a Sanggingan
garden, north-west of Ubud. I have made many subsequent visits
to Mozaic and have seen the initial a la carte menu gradually
replaced by set menus, degustation style. The chef’s,
Chris Salans, style has also progressed from classic to one
of daring and experimentation.
Awards and world recognition have been lauded on Mozaic [Les
Grandes Tables du Monde and The Wine Spectator Excellence
award amongst them], and it has even become the catalyst for
lightning visits to Bali from lovers of fine food from neighbouring
countries.
A point to remember is that reservations at Mozaic are essential.
Tables are seated by time in 30 minute steps, so an early
arrival is mandatory. This is required in order to preserve
the quality of the cuisine.
Mozaic now offers a choice of three Chef’s Tasting Menus.
Their Classic Cuisine menu is what has become known as traditional
Mozaic. A Vegetarian option is always available for those
of that bent. The new exciting option is Mozaic’s Experimental
Cuisine Tasting Menu, but only for those who are capable of
forgiveness if a particular combination does not quite work.
Any such fleeting disappointment will be subsequently overshadowed
by discovery of unexpected taste sensations from those that
do work. When I took this culinary trip they all worked, but
that will undoubtedly not always be possible.
All menus at Mozaic are prepared daily in accordance with
available produce. That may mean that a favourite from one
visit will not re-appear on the menu for many days or weeks
later if at all, but fortune favours the brave; experiment
and discover!
A recent journey through the Experimental Tasting Menu produced
surprise after surprise. The Amuse Bouche was no more than
a tantalizing introduction of what was yet to follow, seven
courses of which six were perfectly matched with pairing wines
[a selection from Australia, France and Chile].
A tender chunk of Lobster Tail was topped with diced Foie
Gras in a red wine reduction, a total surprise. The American
love of Surf & Turf makes me shudder with revulsion, but
this combination was made in heaven.
A piece of filleted Blue Eye Cod, imported from Australia,
sat atop an emulsion [froth] of green asparagus with a small
delicate salad of black truffle and asparagus tips.
This was followed by a dish consisting of Carpaccio style
small oval disks of prime Australian Wagyu beef that had been
marinated in spicy rendang oil. In the centre a wonderful
emulsion made from Parmesan cheese, which you spooned onto
the beef slices. Perfect taste contrasts.
Now for the shock of the night! When the waiter announced
and described the dish, as they do for every course at Mozaic,
I thought I had misheard, so I questioned the word ‘local’
as in pork, as in ‘horror’! My experience with
local Balinese pork varies from it being tough and chewy to
virtually inedible. Even though this meat was from real suckling
pigs [piglets still suckling on mother sow], I was still quite
skeptical.
What I had not taken into account was that at Mozaic all the
meat is cooked by the Sous-Vide method, without air. Sealed
in plastic bags with all air removed, the meats are cooked
very slowly at low temperatures [about 58 degrees] for an
extended time. The result was amazing. The centre piece was
a small chop, surrounded by two other different cuts and styles
from the suckling pig. A pile of Savoy cabbage, prepared in
sauerkraut style, was the base for the little chop. The meat
so tender and the complete dish, perfect. In a blind tasting
I would have wagered millions that it could not have come
from local meat.
Fresh Goat Cheese was served with a walnut sable, sour cherries
and a dribble of Balsamic vinegar, followed by a Sorbet of
Green Apple, the sharpness of the green apple a perfect palate
cleanser before an equally welcome dessert of Mixed Berries
baked in a crisp phyllo pastry accompanied by a pineapple
sorbet with sweet basil. The final piece of the jigsaw has
been put in place at Mozaic, by the arrival of their talented
pastry chef.
A cigar with an espresso coffee and petits fours followed
whilst trying to recapture in words the myriad of tastes that
had been experienced in the previous couple of hours.
The cost of this 7 course degustation [with either the Classic,
or the Experimental, menu] a mere Rp. 450,000++. This is cheaper
than any one main course at leading restaurants in Sydney,
New York, London or Paris. With six matching wines, for Rp.
800,000++, Mozaic becomes the perfect dining experienced for
those who appreciate quality.
Methinks that chef’s dream has finally arrived!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Mozaic
Address : Jl. Raya Sanggingan,
Ubud
Telephone : 975.768
Open : Dinners from 6.30 (closed Mondays, Reservations are
essential)
Parking : Street only, but supervised
Price : Rp. 900,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards
Food : French with flair!
Wine : Only the best!
Service : Gets better and better
Atmosphere : Perfection in the Garden
Overall : For serious gourmets
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
