Bali has many historic and cultural landmarks that regularly
attract visiting tourists. Whilst many of these sites require
a drive of a few hours, so few of them have a quality International
restaurant in the vicinity. Something that would have made
the day even more complete. Normally there are only local
warungs [and no matter how good they are not always what the
tourist is looking for], or worse still that infernal buffet,
ten trays of re-heated [more than once] tasteless food being
charged for at ‘tourist price’.
Now, at last, at Karangasem’s famous Water Palace at
Tirta Gangga, the two are combined. The small villas that
surround that of the King are now under English management,
and their beautiful restaurant has had a total makeover.
The restaurant at Tirta Ayu is perfectly positioned, perched
on the mountain ledge in front of the villas, overlooking
the majestic Water Palace, with island sisters of Nusa Penida
clearly visible in the background. As soon as you arrive at
the restaurant you know that you have stepped over the threshold
between Bali and International. Furthermore it is done without
losing that wonderful naturalness of local Balinese service.
Start with a subtle Goat Cheese Ravioli, pasta rounds stuffed
with that unique cheese and doused in a light mustard butter
sauce, along with leaves of fresh ruccola [also great dipped
in the sauce]. Vietnamese Rice Paper Rolls are thinly shredded
cucumber and carrot, combined with glass noodles, coriander
and prawn, then rolled in soft moistened rice paper. The accompanying
dipping sauce is a tangy chilli/plum that wakes you up. Even
the normal Vegetarian Spring Rolls are above average, crunchy
exterior stuffed with healthy things and a great sweet chilli
sauce for immersion.
Among the soups is an unusual Pumpkin that combines roasted
pumpkin with onions, blended with chicken stock and finished
with double cream, served with garlic bread. The Tirta Ayu
Special is their Duck Soup, full of noodles and duck breast,
flavoured with star anise.
As many visitors call in here for morning or afternoon snacks,
as well as for a major meal, they are also catered for with
an array of Salads [Mixed Seafood with squid and prawns tossed
in a salad with a chilli coriander dressing], Snacks [Tortilla,
filled with avocado, toasted bellpeppers, tomato cheese and
greens], Sandwiches [Crispy Corn Chicken], Pastas [Turmeric
Tagliatelle, tossed with chicken breast, mushroom, tomato
concase and basil] and Pizza [Spicy Sausage, sausage slices
with chopped bacon, paprika, shallots and tomato].
Whilst impressed from first arrival at Tirta Ayu, it was the
main courses that really surprised me. Not the quality [presentation
and content] that you expect at a country tourist location,
no matter how good! It is obvious that the chef has special
credentials and a wealth of good experience. Some dishes you
expect to be good, such as the Slow-Cooked Duck Leg, combined
with perfect pan-seared duck breast glazed with palm sugar.
The Hoisin sauce is brown rather than black, cloyingly sweet,
so good you want to ask for extra.
A total surprise was the normal sounding Chicken Safriana
Jingga, grilled young chicken with curry! The chicken is first
marinated in yoghurt, peppers and lime juice, before being
grilled. In the bowl to be pounded is ginger, galangal, onions,
red chilli and turmeric, later to be combined with a little
coconut milk. The gilled chicken is coated with this mixture,
the final taste so full of wild flavours, the result a true
Indonesian curry, so different from all others!
Another shock was the Crispy Skin Salmon. A large slab of
that cold water fish sits atop a generous serve of mushroom
risotto with a spiced apple salsa. The Salmon was firm and
tender, the skin very crisp, perfect to be eaten.
Other mains include Beer Battered Snapper [surprisingly crunchy,
but I could get to like it like that] atop a pile of thinly
sliced potato wedges, Cajun seasoned, with two sauces, a traditional
tartar and a creamy chilli mayonnaise, Chicken Parmigiana,
Beef Rendang and Roasted Chicken with a garlic and herb butter.
A few mandatory Indonesian and Balinese dishes are also available
plus a predictable list of desserts [amongst them an unusual
Chocolate Samosa topped with roasted cashew nuts and ice cream].
Due to the complexities of local custom they unfortunately
cannot at this stage accept credit cards, but this will change
very soon, as will the now very minimal wine list.
Bali’s restaurant scene just keeps on getting better!
Dine with the King, you will certainly feel like one!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant :Tirta Ayu
Address : The Water Palace
Tirta Gangga,
Karangasem.
Telephone : (0363) 22.503
Open :8.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m., daily
Parking : Secure, in the Water Palace grounds
Price : Rp. 340,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : No cards, coming soon
Food : International
Wine : Limited, being extended.
Service : Professional and relaxed.
Atmosphere : Live like Royalty!
Overall : The perfect luncheon.
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
