Whenever Bali is mentioned, in connection with food, many
people conjure up an image of eating seafood on the beach.
Back when Bali first began to attract mass tourists, Jimbaran
Beach with its small primitive warungs, everyone sitting on
plastic stools with legs in the sand whilst fresh fish purchased
straight form the fishermen is being grilled over coconut
embers, was one of the highlights of the visit.
Everybody copied and soon there were a hundred stalls/warungs
attempting to cash in on the craze. The concept was so simple
yet to carry it out successfully required some industry knowledge.
There was a definite over-supply which caused quality concerns
and resulted in the inflating of prices to allow for high
agent/driver commissions to be paid by certain operators.
I was never attracted to this style of dining and my earliest
memory of that stretch of beach was when setting up BaliEats
8 years ago. I checked out many of the restaurants, as I often
do, whilst they were still closed. Strolling along the beach,
from warung to warung, lifting the lid on a series of polystyrene
boxes that contained, very dead, very dry, very warm beady-eyed
fish, left over from the previous evening or maybe longer.
No, this was definitely not my scene. In fact during any period,
and there have been many over the past 8 years, when the beach
had not been full of diners, the offerings were potentially
dangerous.
What a pleasant surprise to discover that the incredible upgrading
of Bali restaurants that has been happening during recent
times has also spread to the food scene at Kedonganan Beach,
in Jimbaran Bay, its correct name. Fish, Lobsters, Crabs and
Prawns are now more often kept alive in large fish tanks.The
other fish and seafood products kept in stainless steel refrigeration
units, or at least packed in ice 24 hours a day in clean tiled
kitchens and then prepared in special grill rooms.
Leading the way, along with other selected establishments,
is The Fortuin Café. As soon as you enter from the
street you realize this is not the old Jimbaran. First, at
the left, are the live fish tanks and iced storage area. The
restaurant itself had modern wooden tables spread out across
a large glassed-in room that is spotlessly clean. Out front
there are still rows of tables and chairs for those who want
to sit with their feet on the sand, feeling the sea breeze
in their face and tasting salt in the wind, or you can sit
inside and watch it all without being blown away.
Live fish tanks contain an enormous variety of seafood [garoupa
is always available and sometimes barramundi as well, mud
crabs, lobsters and mid-sized prawns are a constant] ready
to be prepared whichever way you prefer. It is as if you have
walked into a large Chinese seafood restaurant, and judging
by the accompanying sauces you probably have.
The fish [whole or filleted] can be ordered ‘grilled
on the flame’ in true Bali style or steamed in the Chinese
manor with onion, garlic and chilli. As well as the live options
from the tanks, others are also available from the chiller
having been kept on ice since purchase. These varieties of
course depend on each day’s catch but can include Barracuda,
Red & White Snapper, Tuna, King Fish and Baronang. Squid
and King Prawns are also always on offer. Clams and Mussels
are also often available.
Good eating size crabs, straight from the tank, can be had
‘flame grilled’, steamed or boiled, and served
with your choice of Indonesian Chinese sauces; Sweet and Sour,
Chille Sauce, Black Pepper or Oyster Sauce. The same sauces
can be ordered with any seafood.
Live Lobsters are normally served ‘flame grilled’
with a chilli sauce, the lobster head made into a soup.
The wine list is not substantial but local and Australian
wines are always available. The service is friendly, staff
running everywhere but always quick to notice your needs.
For those who demand other than seafood, grilled and fried
chicken, noodle, vegetarian and rice dishes are also available,
but this is a seafood palace.
A perfect destination for that old fashioned monster seafood
platter, create your own or select from one of the combinations
on the Fortuin menu. Late afternoon the place comes alive
as thousands are attracted to this magic stretch of beach,
to eat fresh seafood, imbibe a bit and watch that unique Bali
sunset.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Fortuin Cafe
Address : Jln. Pantai Kedonganan,
Jimbaran Bay.
Telephone : 709.034
Open :11.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m., daily.
Parking : Secure parking beside restaurant.
Price : Rp. 300.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : Mastercard, Visa, JCB, BCA
Food : Seafood
Wine : Small list
Service : Eager to please!
Atmosphere : Clean and fresh.
Overall : Fresh seafood, what more could you want?
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
