Begawan Giri has been the home for five different Executive
Chefs during its short but exciting life, four of whom have
been Australian. All have contributed something to the ever
increasing world acceptance of this magnificent estate as
being the Bali home of fine dining!
The setting, perched high above the sacred Ayung, sets the
scene. The food only confirms it. Begawan is now under the
Como Shambhala umbrella. The Como Group has a penchant for
chefs originally trained by Neil Perry at his world class
Sydney Restaurant Rockpool and Chris Miller is yet another
from that background.
The cuisine at Glow is virtually 100% Vegetarian. There are
just a few exceptions. The entire estate is tobacco free,
and virtually alcohol free as well [on request only]. If you
think that a vegetarian meal sounds boring, then think again!
The accent is on healthy food that tastes great. No calorie
counting here, just a strict use of organic fruits and vegetables,
the best in the world.
Sea Vegetable, Avocado, Cucumber & Radish Salad with Japanese
Dressing is a sample of things to come. It is a layered stack
of finely sliced cucumber at the base topped with slabs of
avocado, a pile of sea vegetables [3 different seaweeds, one
fresh and the other two re-hydrated] and thin discs of radish.
It looks good on the plate and tastes wonderful.
A base of lentils and crushed walnuts is topped with goat’s
curd, green beans and roasted baby beetroot. Once again so
healthy and not a scrap left on the plate. A touch of Thai
with the Poached Prawns & Pomelo Salad with chilli and
lime, the prawn meat perfect with just their tails intact,
the fresh juicy pomelo balancing the dressing.
The Ayam Pelalah is a Balinese special; thicker than usual
spicy shredded chicken is tossed with diced long beans, split
cherry tomatoes and chilli. A Zucchini, Basil & Semi-dried
Tomato Lasagna consists of many paper thin layers of alternating
ingredients. A Lentil & 7 Grain Wrap is just that. The
flour of seven different high fibre grains is the base, the
wrap stuffed with healthy lentils, tomato salsa, avocado and
alfalfa sprouts.
When you consume plate after plate of food at this level it
becomes difficult for a single dish to stand out. But for
me the Hot-pot of Asian Greens was so simple, yet sensational.
A large ceramic cup, without a handle, is filled with paper
thin slices of Asian greens, fresh and re-hydrated seaweed
and slabs of tofu atop a pile of Udon noodles made from Quinoa,
all sitting in a fragrant Dashi broth. After devouring all
the ingredients forget protocol and lift the cup to your lips
to drain the remaining fluid, no one will notice.
Equally memorable was the most expensive entrée on
the menu. A slab of so-tender Lobster was paired with a piece
of milk-poached chicken breast [a rare non vegetarian touch]
and a pear salad then finished with a tamarind dressing. Words
cannot do this combination justice, tasting is the only way
to experience it. A complete meal of assorted entrees at Glow
is a feast that could never be forgotten.
The mains are also basically organic and healthy but here
there is a limited array of non-vegetarian dishes. A ‘Wagyu’
Beef Steamboat is with green tea noodles, a Roast Lamb Loin
is served with a risotto of beetroot and barley together with
a pistachio and apricot chutney. The Herb & Spice Crusted
Chicken comes with saffron glazed carrots and chickpeas, hummus
and an orange and mint salad.
Back on the super healthy scale is a crisp Mahi-Mahi topped
with a carrot and chickpea puree with a slight curry taste
[cumin]. The fish sits on an intriguing quinoa and cherry
tomato tabbouleh.
Quinoa is an incredible product. Used by the Aztecs and Incas
centuries ago to eat as a cereal and pound into flour for
breads, in fact it is not really a cereal grain but rather
the botanical fruit of an herb plant. When cooked the germ
coils into a small tail that lends a pleasant crunch when
eating. Gluten free and high in fibre it is a nutritionist’s
dream. Eating a spoonful of Quinoa is similar to swallowing
a multi-vitamin capsule, it is so rich in minerals, vitamins
and essential amino acids.
There are many other seafood options at Glow. A Spiced Crab,
Mango and Avocado Salad, Tiger Prawns Ceviche Salad, Steamed
Snapper is served with a fragrant mushroom and ginger broth
and an asparagus/sweet corn cake.
Whatever and how ever much you eat at Glow, desserts are mandatory.
Dairy-free ice creams, sorbets and granitas made from an assortment
of tropical fruits, even flowers. They are more than just
palate-cleansers, just eat slowly and savour the intense flavours.
Chris Miller is a young chef of exceptional talent destined
to take his place on the international stage. After graduating
from the kitchens of Rockpool, a rare fine dining seafood
restaurant in Sydney, Chris joined Como Shambhala in their
Parrot Cay Resort in the Turks and Caicos Islands before arriving
in Bali for the opening of sister hotel Uma in Sanggingan,
Ubud, subsequently taking over from Tim Bouget at Glow.
Although it may sound like a contradiction, dining at Glow
is a relaxed form of fine dining. The gentle crashing of cascading
waters in the distance echoing through the valley beside this
mountain-side restaurant is the perfect match for whispered
conversations at the well spaced tables. Most of the conversation
is about the amazing food tastes.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Glow
Address : Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri
Begawan, Ubud
Telephone : 978.888
Open : All day dining
Parking : Secure, in hotel grounds
Price : Rp. 1,000,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards
Food : Healthy!
Wine : On request only
Service : Impeccable
Atmosphere : Relaxed luxury
Overall : A gastronomic sensation
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
