Where else in Bali [make that the world] do you get serenaded
by the restaurateur during your romantic dinner? Christos
Liokouras [from the Lio Collection, exporters of fine furniture,
and a new and very active partner in Pantarei] is probably
one of the world’s more unusual varieties of same. Bouncing
everywhere, talking to everybody, snatching a guitar from
the band and bursting into song in a variety of languages,
the perfect maitre d’!
The new Pantarei is new in almost every way. It starts with
the attractive bar/dining area just inside the entrance. Quiet
and classy! Further into the body of the restaurant the mob
are noisy and exuberant, they are actually enjoying themselves!
There has been a totally new fit-out, and new items added
to the menu.
There is no better way to start any meal at a Greek restaurant
than with a Greek Meze, a plate of assorted appetizers. Pantarei
is no exception. 10 different items fill the plate; Yalandji
Dolma [vine leaves stuffed with rice, herbs, lemon and olive
oil, in a yoghurt garlic sauce], Assorted Bourek [tasty pastry
triangles], Pastrouma Bourek [philo pastry roll stuffed with
pastrami, Kaseri cheese, tomato and herbs], Spanakopita [a
slab of that classic Greek spinach pie], five different dips
[Tzatziki, Aubergine, Hummus, Spicy Cheese and Tarama], and
those wonderful Stuffed Mushrooms [stuffed with a combination
of feta, cheddar and blue cheeses].
So you want to make your own Meze, well why not? My choice,
for a group of 4 or so is as follows: Krasato [octopus pieces
sautéed in red wine and extra virgin olive oil], Prawn
S
aganaki [devoid of shells ready to eat with your fingers,
baked in the oven in a herbed tomato sauce, topped with cheese],
Pastrouma [Greek pastrami with sliced tomato and topped with
that wonderful tangy Kaseri cheese], and some of those Stuffed
Mushrooms. An entrée side dish I can never overlook
is the Greek Giant Beans, simply baked in the oven in a tomato
sauce. High in fibre and high in taste!
A recent addition to the menu at Pantarei is their version
of the all-time classic, Greek-style Roast Lamb. For Bali
[the cost of imported lamb being prohibitive] for Rp. 70,000++
this dish is excellent. Solid chunks of tender lamb, drizzled
with an olive oil mix with thyme, oregano and minced garlic,
together with perfect crunchy baby potatoes. I forgot to mention
that Pantarei always serves a plate of perfect warm bread
[olive oil and balsamico to dip] with every meal. Do not eat
it all straight away, save some to mop up the leftover oil
and herb mix!
There are many other mains here, meat and seafood. The Lemon
Chicken is actually a half bird, marinated in lemon, mustard,
rosemary and white wine, then baked in the oven. Needless
to say, Moussaka is on the menu [layers of aubergine and minced
meat, topped with béchamel and oven-baked]. Lahano
Dolmades are cabbage leaves stuffed with a mix of minced beef
and rice, with a lemon and egg sauce.
Another Lamb dish is their Lamb Taskebab, large cubes of lamb
that have been simmered in a red wine and herb sauce, and
served on a puree of aubergine.
Amongst the grills [all the usual steaks are here, using imported
Australian meat] is a special Lamb Chop. It has been marinated
in Greek herbs before the grilling, very good! Kebabs include
chunks of beef, lamb, pork, chicken and sausage [separate
or mixed]. The traditional Gyros is available [slices of lamb
with tomato, onion and tzatziki all rolled in soft pita bread],
perfect for that luncheon snack. As is the Souvlaki Roll [minced
beef with the same mix, also rolled in pita bread].
The prices of the seafood dishes at Pantarei are really amazing!
Less than Rp.40,000 for either Mahi-Mahi or Butterfish. Both
are simply grilled whilst being splashed with a mix of olive
oil and lemon.
Dessert at a Greek restaurant invariably includes that sweet,
sticky, wonderful Loukoumades [fried puffs of pastry with
honey, ice cream and cinnamon]. The Mango Pie is not that
bad either.
A good, moderately priced, wine list [including some Greek
wines], happy bustling service, and that incomparable Christros,
all go together to make a night of good eating and total enjoyment.
It is so Greek that even the guitars [live music every night
from 8.00] start to sound like bouzukis after a while. And
the bill at the end of the night will be a pleasant surprise!
With so many new quality restaurants opening in Bali every
month, it is good to see one of the old ones get its act together.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Pantarei
Address : Jln. Raya Seminyak 17,
Seminyak.
Telephone : 732.567
Open : 12.00 noon to 11.30 p.m., daily
Parking : Street only
Price : Rp. 300,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : Visa, Mastercard, JCB, Amex
Food : Greek
Wine : Good list
Service : Bustling and happy!
Atmosphere : It is all Greek!
Overall : Sing with Christos!
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
