The major 5-star hotels in a tourist area such as Bali have
very difficult decisions to make about the cuisines that they
offer in their restaurants. The larger complexes often have
4, 5 or even more food outlets so it is a bit easier for them
to cater for a wide variety of tastes. For the boutique hotels,
no matter how up-market they may be, it is much more difficult.
The current management at The Oberoi took a very brave decision
to offer a very high class of cuisine under the guidance of
their highly talented German Executive Chef, Enrico Wahl,
and his assistant Executive Sous Chef, Joko Triasmoro. Most
of the basic everyday requirements are there but so are many
exciting gourmet offerings. Ingredient sourcing is limited
to obtaining the best they can, irrespective of cost. They
believe that is what their quality of guest demands and appreciates.
I think they are right!
In recent years, the amuse bouche at fine dining restaurants
often foretells the wonders that are to follow. Here a tartar
of tuna with caperberry on top or a roll of beef tongue studded
with pieces of purple potato and gherkin hold true to form.
On the menu, a marble of foie gras with valrhona served with
snake fruit compote and a pistachio brioche leaves you totally
puzzled as to what it will look and taste like. Well, let
me tell you it is an outstanding combination! The square of
foie gras mousse is crossed with thin lines of chocolate.
I was not surprised to later discover that it was the chef’s
signature dish.
Even more daring is ravioli stuffed with the meat from the
head of a suckling pig combined with porcini mushrooms and
black pudding, rich and luscious. There is more! Warm Unagi
[eel] is a pair of fillets first grilled then braised with
a soya glaze, sitting atop a papaya salad. Slices of Abalone
are served on a seaweed salad.
The Oberoi, for all its changes, has not lost its Indian heritage.
Fresh naans can still be ordered, with plain butter or garlic,
and they still offer a wonderful Sheekh Kebab [minced lamb
and spices on skewers] or Jingha Prawns from the tandoor.
Amongst the mains there is an unusual Duck Biryani: duck meat
with basmati rice, vegetables and herbs. One of the all-time-favourite
Indian dishes is also here: Lamb Roghan Josh. This version
sees a whole lamb shank braised with garam masala and is served
with a garlic naan.
The exciting menu options continue with the mains. I have
on many occasions eaten that sensation of the decade, Wagyu
beef, often wondering what the fuss was all about. Now I understand,
although once again I am sure that the ingredient quality
and source and its subsequent handling in the kitchen has
a lot to do with the result. Chef Enrico uses the Sous Vide
method of slow poaching, and has done for many years, although
only selectively and for those meats that requiring it. Sealed
in air-tight bags with juices and spices it sits in water
at 65 degrees in the oven for 48 hours. The result is Wagyu
Beef Cheeks or Tongue that is so tender but still so rich
in taste: unique!
An impressive dish was the Australian Wagyu Beef Fillet, sitting
on a potato confit: pure perfection! The Open Ravioli is stuffed
with a confit of pork rib, combined with an onion compote
and foie gras emulsion
The duck is a duo-the breast being honey glazed and the leg
as a confit. The Lamb a rack with stewed shiitake mushrooms,
warm babaganoush and thyme gnocchi. No expense has been spared
to present the very best on the table at the new Kura Kura.
For a restaurant on a Bali beach, an array of seafood dishes
is imperative. The Ahi Tuna is rare, peppered and glazed,
with three different crushed pepper corns: Javanese comet
tail, Balinese long and Szechuan. Grilled Swordfish is with
red smoked salt and vegetable minestrone with squid, clams
and tarragon. The Jumbo Prawns are flamed at your table and
served with gnocchetti sardi and dried cherry tomatoes, braised
Chinese cabbage with bacon and crab tobico mayonnaise. Sable
Fish was a shock for me-never have I tasted such a fish before.
Also known as Alaskan black cod, it is found in the muddy
sea beds of the North Pacific. Such a subtle taste, so soft
yet still firm, it is served with a purée of caramelized
shallots and a mix of fava beans and black pudding with fresh
oregano. Not to be missed!
The Chef’s Tasting Menu gives you three alternatives:
all seven courses or your choice of only three or five courses,
depending on your appetite. After the amuse bouche, the Geoduck
Clam Sashimi, with a papaya salad and ginger sugo, the Seared
Sablefish with black pudding and a parsnip mousseline, Pan
Fried Foie Gras with grilled dragon fruit, the Striploin of
Pork from a Berkshire Black with porcini mushroom confit,
baby leeks and green cabbage etuve with chorizo. Finish up
with a selection of aged cheeses and refreshing raspberries
for dessert. The choices change on a regular basis.
There is also a series of vegetarian dishes, both small and
large serves, available as well: Mousse of Yellow and Red
Bell Peppers with daikon radish and cherry tomato salad, Warm
Ragout of Shiitake, Straw Mushroom, Morel and Wood Ear Mushroom
with baby spinach and macadamia nut oil, a Paccheroni Rigati
Pasta with stewed porcini mushrooms, or the Chef’s Selection
with a Vegetarian Tapas Plate.
A new venue in Bali for that very special dinner-fine dining
in every sense!
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
