Damai is another of those magic Bali locations. It is perched
high up on the mountain, overlooking Lovina and the sea beyond,
it even has a Java vista on a clear day. Dine by the swimming
pool or up in the small elegant wantilan that overlooks the
property.
The menu is small in number of dishes but very big in quality
and variety. For their 6 Course Degustation menu you select
three of the starters [they offer 5, the big problem is which
two to leave out], plus one main and one dessert, finishing
with petit fours.
The Tataki of Tuna is perfect! The top quality Yellow Fin
fillet is very lightly seared, rolled in a mixture of herbs,
and cross sliced. You eat it slowly and savour the exquisite
taste. This is accompanied by a tuna wonton, some chilli guacamole
and wasabi mayonnaise.
Just as good is the Chilli Crab Ravioli. The large soft ravioli
is generously stuffed with a spicy crab salad, with teriyaki
fumet, chive oil, a few small organic vegetables and wakame.
Foie Gras is done as a terrine, combined with the meat from
braised oxtail, toasted macadamia nuts, served with a tamarillo
chutney and an anise tuille. I can never get enough of a dish
like this. The Clams are served as a pyramid of shells. They
have been steamed in rice wine with vanilla essence and are
served with organic vegetables, a Tiger Prawn in tempura batter
and an over-sized garlic crostini.
The final entrée offering is a Wagyu Sashimi. Wagyu
[wa means Japanese, and gyu means cattle, or simply “Japanese
cow”) is a breed of cattle, developed in Japan, genetically
predisposed to intense marbling, and produces a high percentage
of oleaginous unsaturated fat with a higher percentage of
omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Wagyu beef is now being farmed
extensively in the USA and Australia. At Damai the Wagyu beef
is sliced thinly and pepper seared, served with a micro salad
and enoki, and a shabu-shabu sauce. Healthy beef with taste!
The main courses at Damai do not always come as you would
expect. No, all the ingredients are what you would have imagined,
just that their preparation and presentation has been subject
to a bit of creative kitchen work. None is more so than their
Bouillabaisse, a Mediterranean treat from the south of France.
The seafood components are normal except that they have all
been prepared individually. The Tuna is grilled sate style,
the Scallops roasted and the Tiger Prawns presented in tempura
batter. What happened to the soup? Well that fragrant broth
comes in a cup, centre of the plate, surrounded by the seafood
ingredients. You can eat and sip, or eat and dip, whichever
you prefer.
The daily fresh Red Snapper is pan-fried on the skin side
and served with a shellfish beurre blanc and green basil as
well as baby turnips, young bamboo and marinated tubiko caviar.
Lobster is one of Damai’s most popular servings. You
can have your half lobster either grilled or flambeed with
a tempura oyster, ume-bushi plums and a lobster bisque together
with beetroot and lime mayonnaise crisps.
The Quail is served as a Ballotine of Breast with a spring
roll rilette of leg, braised daikon, seared foie gras, edamane
and a crisp pancetta. Australian Tenderloin of Beef is char-grilled
and served with sweetbreads meuniere, miso-glazed shiitake
mushrooms and a potato fondant.
For desserts the Apple & Ginger Pie is with a cinnamon
infused caramel sauce and ginger ice cream. The Chocolate
Fantasy is a chocolate ganache with smoked chilli, a chocolate
spring roll, a chocolate sate and chocolate ice cream. For
me a simple Crème Brulee, with a sorbet made from mangosteen.
A good wine list and attentive but unobtrusive service make
dining at Damai a relaxing experience.
Lunch time sees different offerings such as an Udon Noodle
Soup [a tartare of tuna in a wonton floating on top as well
as fresh fish pieces, chilli, coconut shavings, coriander
and Kaffir lime]. The Steak Sandwich also has onion marmalade,
bacon, shiitake mushrooms and a tarragon mayonnaise stuffed
inside. You can also have some seared foie gras added to the
giant sandwich, if you wish?
Sunday Brunch is Champagne time! Choose from home-made Yoghurt
with Honey Roasted Muesli and fresh fruit, Pastries [Danish
of course], Toast, Jams and Cream Cheese, Truffle Scrambled
Eggs with marinated Tubiko Caviar and blinis, an Asian Wagyu
Salad, Herb Sausages with Pancetta, Hash Browns and Grilled
Tamarillo. Finish with American Pancakes or a Fresh Fruit
Salad with mint honey and vanilla ice cream. The set price
includes a glass of Champagne or a Bloody Mary, or a range
of non-alcoholic drinks.
It is possible to live with a bit of style on Bali’s
north coast.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Damai Restaurant
Address : Damai Lovina Villas,
Kayuputih,
Lovina.
Telephone : (0362) 41.008
Open : 8.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m., daily
Parking : Secure, in resort grounds.
Price : $US 120 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards: All major cards
Food : Modern International
Wine : Good list.
Service : Impeccable
Atmosphere: Relaxed elegance.
Overall : Gourmet living.
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
