When you travel to the outer reaches of Bali, you do not
get, nor should you expect, Fine Dining. What you do hope
to find though is local simple food, expertly prepared, even
if in a home cooking style, and incredibly cheap!
The area referred to as Amed, on Bali’s North-eastern
coast, is in fact a series of small fishing villages south
of Amed. Many foreign residents, from a virtual United Nations
of background countries have invested in the small boutique
hotels all along this strip. At last count the owners come
from 12 different countries, so the cuisines they offer in
their hotel restaurants normally have some unique dishes,
although they too are sometimes presented Bali style.
Traditionally, this area with its instantly fresh seafood
often caught just that morning, presents some of the best
value food in Bali, although Indonesian Chinese cuisine is
the norm.
The new Santai, now under Finnish management, has been the
first hotel in the area to use an International chef, Pasi
Huusko, to set up and supervise the kitchen. It really shows
in the end product. Whilst the menu also offers many local
treats, interspersed amongst them are some surprising options.
Santai is a small boutique hotel, the view from the restaurant
is through multi-coloured flowering trees, the wide sea beyond.
Immediate relax mode.
Chicken Drumsticks cooked Tandoori style [marinated in a yoghurt
curry mix] sit on a base of perfect cous cous. The Santai
Salad is refreshingly different; chicken pieces, melon, feta
cheese and roasted bellpeppers are all tossed in tangy red
vinaigrette.
That Indonesian standard, Tempe, is modified slightly. Crunchy
tempe is combined with egg noodles, finely shredded carrots
and cabbage and crushed peanuts, then coated in sesame oil,
kecap manis and a spicy sambal. As with many of the dishes
at Santai this one can be ordered as a small serve, just to
try, or in a larger one to share.
Other entrees include excellent Balinese Fish Cakes [fish
minced with chilli and coconut before being pan-fried and
served with Balinese sambal], simple Bruschettas, all the
expected Sates and King Prawns in garlic
Soups include the Indonesian standard, Soto Ayam, a local
Amed Fish Soup and one of Roasted Garlic with King Prawn.
Pastas are the basic combinations you find almost everywhere
[spaghetti, penne, tagliatelle and lasagna].
As fresh fish is what this area is renowned for that is what
most people want to eat when they come to Amed. At Santai
the four most common local fish are given International treatments.
Yellow Fin Tuna is grilled and served with a Thai style green
curry reduction. The great Mahi-Mahi is baked in the oven
with tomato and pesto, a large chunk of Barracuda is coated
with a sticky sweet ginger glaze and served with cashew nuts
and vegetable noodles. Whilst fillets of the much maligned
local Mackeral are simply pan-fried, yet do not go dry. The
strong tasting flesh is perfectly paired with a fragrant dill
sauce.
All can be ordered separately or in a combined 4 Fish from
Amed Platter in which you select two sauces to accompany the
fish. Whatever you order, the kitchen techniques of someone
with many years of experience comes through in every dish,
no matter how simple of complex. Great that this knowledge
is now being passed on to the locals, it augurs well for the
future.
If you prefer your fish Bali style then the Pepes Ikan is
what you order [yellow fin tuna minced with coconut and spices,
wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over coconut embers].
International options include Ginger Glazed Chicken, Minute
Steak [stuffed with tomato and mozzarella, in a mushroom sauce
with a crisp potato roll], Grilled Lamb Medallions [olive
and red wine sauce, cous cous and feta cheese], Grilled Sirloin
Steak [with roasted garlic, tarragon butter and ‘Burning
Love’; a spicy mix of mashed potato, bacon and jalapeno
peppers] and Grilled Pork Medallions in a green pepper sauce.
All very different for the Bali Provinces!
Two desserts at Santai are very worthy of a mention. Their
Key Lime Pie is so refreshing after a hot meal with its tangy
lime on a crunchy base, whilst the Chocolate Orgasm combines
a luscious icy cold chocolate mousse with a coating of thin
crisp chocolate.
Needless to say, as it is an all day hotel restaurant, there
are also a number of interesting snacks including a most unusual
Quesadilla; a mix of chopped beef or chicken with mozzarella,
vegetables and a very spicy salsa, between two paper thin
home made tortillas. A great snack, some may call it a Mexican
Pizza Sandwich!
A modest, but well balanced wine list and the very friendly
service that this area is famous for, all go to make your
visit as relaxed as the name suggests.
When you are served this level of food in remote areas such
as Amed you appreciate just how much Bali has come of age,
in a culinary sense!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Santai restaurant
Address : Santai Bungalows,
Bunutan, Amed.
Telephone : (0363) 23.487
Open : 7.30 a.m. to 10.00 p.m., daily
Parking : Secure at entrance.
Price : Rp. 280.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards: Visa, Mastercard
Food : International
Wine : Small list.
Service : Efficient, friendly.
Atmosphere: Comfortable and relaxed.
Overall : Exceptional food for Amed!