Hotel food, even the best, normally consists of quality ingredients,
but presented in such a way that offends no one. It also usually
excites no one! Sadly so many examples of this come to mind
in the 5 star hotels of Bali. Often the more expensive the
offering the more bland is the result.
Alila Ubud is not far from Ubud, an area which boasts a range
of eateries for every taste and pocket. At their restaurant,
Plantation, they provide a reason to drive those few kilometers
more to the north-west of Ubud. Chef Christian Fogliani is
unusual. From his Sicilian family he inherited the love of
Italian food, simple clean tastes and the pasta always being
‘al dente’. Growing up and training as a chef
in Australia he developed the technique and attention to detail
to produce those expected results all of the time. Finally,
working, and marrying, in Vietnam he acquired the appreciation
for the subtle touch of Vietnamese cuisine, a refreshing mix
of village fare and French haute cuisine.
Now he has been let loose on us in Bali, and we love it!
Lunch can be light, heavy or very healthy. Not only are there
Vegetarian options, and others than can be served as Vegetarian,
but also the dishes that are low in saturated fats are specifically
marked as such.
Dinner time is fine dining time! Amongst the Appetisers are
some that are not to be missed. These are all served in a
tasting size but larger portions may be ordered. The Scallops
& Marmalade see Citron Absolut soaked scallops sitting
on finely diced star fruit and topped with marmalade of lemongrass,
galangal, tamarind and chilli. If that one knocks you out
then try the Squid & Lime, strips of squid body have been
marinated in lemongrass, garlic, lime and chilli before being
perfectly char-grilled and served warm. Each strip of squid
is rolled and sits on a mayonnaise of lime, ginger and wasabi,
a small pile of the original marinade is adjacent. Crunchy
but still so tender!
These wonderful delicate Asian touches are taken further with
a Snakefruit, & Seafood Spiced Salad, a julienne of salak
and star fruit is tossed with spices and a Cambodian dressing,
and sits on rolled thin shavings of white radish. You have
to keep reminding yourself that you are eating in Bali, and
a meal that will probably only cost $65 for two persons. In
the major cities of the world $120 p.p. would be a more likely
figure. And where else in the world can you sit in an open
wantilan looking down through a lush valley to the Ayung in
full flow?
And then there are the entrees! Pomelo & Tiger Prawns
is a set of juicy prawns with just their tail in tact for
holding, sitting on a salad of shredded green mango, green
papaya, banana blossom and chunks of that unique citrus of
pink pomelo, all tossed with a Vietnamese Nuoc Cham sauce.
The chef’s signature dish is yet another that is not
to be missed, Tempura Prawns in Angel Hair Filo. The prawns
are marinated in ginger and garlic before being dipped in
a light tempura batter and then coated with finely shredded
strands of philo pastry. Quite sensational! It would be easy
to create your own tasting menu at Plantation, combining your
favourite appetizers and entrees. The only problem with that
is that you would miss out on the wonderful mains!
The biggest problem with the mains is which one to order?
Chicken Breast marinated in lime and lemongrass is grilled
over hot coals. The Lamb Rack & Tamarind Jam is heavenly
food for those of us who miss quality lamb here in Bali. Perfect
chops cut from the rack have had their fat removed and are
served pink as should be, on the side a pancetta and Kalamata
olive risotto. The meat is coated with a wonderful tangy jam
of chilli, mint and tamarind. A take-home special if only
you could!
The half Lobster is served with a Tagliolini of shredded lobster
and prawns. Even good old Aussie beef gets a makeover at Plantation.
It is rubbed with a paste of rosemary and oregano before being
grilled.
Vegetarians are well catered for. An Organic Salad of spinach,
sliced beetroot, roasted potato and pumpkin, toasted sesame
seeds and semi-dried tomatoes all tossed in a spicy beetroot
dressing with aged Balsamic, and a Nasi Tumpeng Merah [steamed
red rice with long beans, green papaya, vegetables, nuts,
grated coconut and sambals] are but two examples of same.
Did you ever think that you would find a Bali Banana dish
over which you could enthuse? How about one that uses the
small sweet baby bananas rubbed with clove and cinnamon powder
before being grilled. The vanilla and clove ice cream sets
it off perfectly. The Melting Chocolate Cake uses Valhrona,
firm on the outside, melting on the inside.
A surprisingly excellent wine list, is supplemented by friendly
knowledgeable service that never intrudes.
What wonderful fresh offerings to enjoy in such an open fresh
location. With the two Alila Hotels in Bali serving up this
level of cuisine I begin to understand why they are always
so heavily booked. I think management has got it right rather
than just follow the old traditional norms. Alila hotels may
only be rated as 4 star but their food and service is 5 star,
and without the 5 star price.
Congratulations and thanks!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Plantation
Address : Alila Ubud,
Sayan, Ubud.
Telephone : 975.693
Open : 8.00 a.m. to 10.30 p.m., daily.
Parking : Secure in hotel grounds.
Price : Rp. 600.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards
Food : An Asian touch
Wine : Excellent list
Service : Unobstrusive
Atmosphere : Peace!
Overall : Fine dining at Bali prices!
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
