Candi Dasa has for many years been the regular weekend haunt
of Ubud’s rich and famous. Saltwater, a little sand,
and a quite peaceful escape without encountering the brashness
that so often goes hand in hand with popular tourist locations.
A little bit of style!
The Rama Candi Dasa hotel is an old one that has recently
gone through a major upgrade and renovation. A part of that
change was the setting up of Garpu restaurant under the careful
eye of Patrick Chauchereau, ex chef of that popular French
restaurant Lola.
It is a modern glassed-in restaurant with ocean views, Nusa
Penida seemingly so close, and cruise ships moored off Padang
Bai, just to the right. The restaurant space extends almost
to the sea itself, encouraging relaxed and unhurried dining,
as befitting a day at the seaside. The generous cocktail bar
sits behind and above the eating area, another easy place
to relax.
All this atmosphere would be wasted if the food was just ordinary.
Never fear, the food at Garpu is alone worth the trip to Candi
Dasa. This information should not be a surprise to any of
Lola’s old customers.
The menu is International in content but with a decided French
influence, not only in the menu items but in the attention
to detail of all the little things. Begin with the bread.
One of my major complaints is that Western food should always
have fresh bread served with it. Most places in Bali do not
bother to serve bread at all, and when they do it is often
not worth eating anyway. At Garpu the bread is baked on the
premises, different breads for different meals. At lunch the
French Baguettes are perfect! They come with that crunchy
crust and soft filling, the only way to attack pates, or you
can pretend you are French and dunk the slabs in the rich
soups, or use to wipe up the leftover sauces.
There is an assortment of salads [Roasted Goat Cheese, Caesar
with Grilled Pesto Chicken], Carpaccios [tuna or beef, tender
and tasty], Snails [with garlic butter] or a Feuillete de
Crevettes a la Americaine, sautéed shrimps served in
a light puff pastry vol-au-vent, topped with a lobster sauce.
Not the type of dish you expect to find in Candi Dasa, more
likely to be found at the tables of exotic city restaurants.
This is class in the country!
Being an all day restaurant there are the usual offerings
of sandwiches, pizzas, pasta and other snacks. Well I should
not say usual as the sandwich bread and even the hamburger
buns are as carefully produced as everything else, the fillings
executed with precision.
Mains offer a wide variety of International and local dishes.
Being a seaside restaurant there are Fish and Chips, of course,
fresh fillets of fish in a super light batter. That wonderful
local fish Mahi-Mahi is simply grilled so as not to spoil
its tender flavour. A light lemon butter sauce added. Grouper
in Papillote has been steamed in foil and served with basil
butter. Prawns are sautéed then flambéed with
garlic and tomato, Provencale style.
The Steak au Poivre is tenderloin, Rack of Lamb is with tarragon
juice and the Baby Back Ribs are glazed with a tangy BBQ sauce,
and like all sauces from this kitchen, full of taste. The
Chickem Cocotte is something different, roasted with garlic
potatoes, shallots and bacon.
Local mains include the standards; Ayam Kalasan [fried marinated
chicken], Bebek Goreng [a half duck marinated with bumbu spices
and fried till crisp] and Be Celeng Base Manis [pork simmered
in sweet soy]. Be Siap Pelalah is a perfect luncheon dish,
shredded chilli combined with chilli and lime, refreshingly
different. Be Pasih Mebase Kuning combines different seafood
braising it over a light, but spicy, coconut gravy.
Dessert time is French pastry time! The lightest puff pastry
makes a perfect Profiterole, it is served with ice cream and
a hot cocoa sauce. Fresh strawberries and rhubarb are combined
in another super light puff pastry. What could be better than
a simple Apple Tart, served hot. Crème Brulee and Crepes
Suzette are also available at this amazing country restaurant.
The staff are so friendly and relaxed, that the mood rubs
off on the diners. Gazing out over the water you will be so
content that an extended stay can easily become a reality.
This quality, and at these reasonable prices, makes eating
at Candi Dasa a pleasant surprise. Most menus have items constantly
being changed, as new creations are introduced. A lucky sneak
preview of a forthcoming menu change at Garpu included the
most perfect Duck Terrine, tender slabs of duck meat in aspic,
accompanied by a Duck Liver Mousse, a dry Cumberland sauce
the perfect companion, as well as more chunks of that wonderful
French bread.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Garpu
Address : Rama Candi Dasa Resort
Candi Dasa
Telephone : (0363) 41.974
Open : All day dining
Parking : Secure, in hotel grounds
Price : Rp. 300,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards
Food : International, with a French touch
Wine : Medium list
Service : Efficient and friendly
Atmosphere : A saltwater panorama
Overall : The perfect lunch!
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
