Bali Advertiser - Advertising for The Expatriate Community

Behind the Trees in Tuban

The entrance is almost hidden behind the trees that line the Jln. Kantika Plaza frontage to the Hotel Santika Beach. There is a small private parking area to the side, reached from the main hotel entrance gateway. The restaurant itself is surrounding with trees and is almost an oasis from the passing traffic.

Kunyip Bali serves only Indonesian food, concentrating on Balinese originals, and presents it as it has been prepared and presented for decades. The almost absence of entrees is surprising to the westerner but would not be noticed by an Asian to whom what we call pre-dinner entrees, they think of as snacks to have in-between meals. Although a Sate Campur is available as a main course combining sates of beef, chicken, lamb and fish.

Gedang Mekuah Miss Kakul is a Balinese soup based on green papaya with snails added. Those traditional Indonesian soups, Soto Ayam [clear chicken soup with glass noodles and vegetables] and Soup Buntut [oxtail] are both available.

Ayam Panggang Kecap is a grilled breast of chicken, cross sliced, covered with sweet soy and chilli, topped with sesame seeds. It is perfectly cooked, still tender and moist, a must for those who love kecap manis. Ayam Panggang Kalas is another tender piece of chicken breast but this time it has been roasted in a spiced coconut milk. Be Siap Mepanggang Sambel Matah is roasted chicken with that Indonesian sambal that is revered by all who enjoy food with a mouthful of taste!

Be Celeng Menyatnyat & Urutan is pork, stewed in turmeric, served with two chunks of deep-fried Balinese pork sausage [urutan]. The pork is surprisingly tender although a little bland. However when combined with the accompanying sambal, it is excellent. For Urutan fans there is also Urutan dan Gegorengan [those deep-fried sausages with a sliced fillet or pork in garlic and ginger]. Babi Kecap is Bali’s own pork dish, simmered with kecap manis.

Kunyit Bali does their own version of Bali’s Bebek Betutu, in this case boiled in the traditional spices rather than being steamed in banana leaves underground. They also do a version of Ubud’s famous Crispy Duck, deep-fried till crunchy. Kambing Mekuah is lamb simmered in coconut milk and spices.

The seafood part of the menu is in two parts; whole fish, squids and prawns, grilled and sold by weight, and menu seafood dishes. These include a Seafood Basket and the Balinese Pepesan be Pasih, fish and spices cooked in a banana leaf. The Sambal Tumis Udang & Ikan combines sautéed prawns and fish in a spicy sauce, very good!

A full selection of Indonesian and Balinese desserts are available including the classic Bubur Injin [black rice pudding], Dadar Gulung [coconut pancake] and Kelepon [pandan and rice flour dumpling]. A Mixed Plate is also available.

The Balinese Megibung is excellent value at Rp.143,000 [two persons]. Appetizers of Assorted Sate and a Lawar Ayam are followed by Ceramcam Ayam [a clear chicken soup with shallots]. A selection of six main courses are then served all at once, they include Roasted Chicken, Pork Stew, Urutan Sausages, Grilled Fish, Young Coconut Lawar and Rice with sweet potato. Four desserts follow with fruits and coffee or tea.

The Indonesian Rijsttafel sells for the same price as the Balinese Megibung and also starts with Assorted Sate but with a side dish of Fried Tofu in a chilli soy sauce. The soup is that Indonesian classic, Oxtail. The main course selection combines Grilled Chicken, Grilled Fish and Lamb Stew with vegetable dishes, kerupuk and steamed rice. Four desserts follow with tea or coffee.

The service is friendly and unpretentious, but a more extensive wine list would be a welcome addition.

No, this is not some modern version of Indonesian and Balinese food, but old cuisines prepared and presented as they always have been. The prices, considering its location within an up-market hotel, are a pleasant surprise.

QUICK REVIEW

Restaurant : Kunyit Bali
Address : Hotel Santika Beach, Jl. Kartika Plaza
Tuban
Telephone : 751.267
Open : 11.00 am to 11.00 pm daily
Parking : Private parking, just inside gate
Price : Rp. 200,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards
Food : Balinese/Indonesian
Wine : Very limited list
Service : Knowledgeable
Atmosphere : Garden setting
Overall : Megibung and Rijsttafel are specialties!

Copyright © 2007 Gerry Williams

Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual restaurants.

Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.