I have often enjoyed eating at local warungs in Bali, as
they generally present simple but tasty food at very cheap
prices, but rarely do I review them. Warung Mendez is special.
Not only because all the food is good, but because it is also
very different. Their speciality is goat meat. For the uninitiated,
goat meat contains much less fat than other meats, so not
only is it healthier to eat but it is also more difficult
to cook.
The owner/chef, Mendez, at this simple little warung, up on
the hill that is Penestanan [turn up the mountain road opposite
the old Beggars Bush in Tjampuhan], is from Yogyakarta and
uses old family secrets to produce amazing results.
Appetisers include Bakwan Jagung, a simple but great frittata
of sweet corn and shallots tossed in rice flour. Eat immediately
it arrives from the kitchen, when still hot and crunchy, whilst
awaiting your meat dishes to be cooked. Other choices include
Tahu Isi [bean curd stuffed with shredded cabbage, bean sprouts
and carrot], Lumpia Basah [spring rolls with chicken, cabbage,
bean sprouts, shallots and fresh basil] and Tempe Mendoan
[soya bean curd with shallots, fried till crunchy].
The Tongseng Kambing is wonderful! It is a sweet spicy soup
of goat meat combined with tomato, cabbage and ginger. Another
goat soup, this time using the meat from the ribs, is the
Sup Iga Kambing, the goat meat is with nutmeg, ginger, cloves,
cinnamon, vegetables and a squeeze of lime. This soup can
also have a base of oxtail or beef ribs instead of the goat
ribs if you prefer. Use the soups in the Indonesian manor,
spooning the contents on to your rice and sipping the broth
from the spoon separately. One portion of rice comes with
every soup bowl but do not forget to order extra rice portions,
one for each person. As with all Asian soups it is taken at
the same time as the other courses not as a separate one.
There is also a goat meat version [instead of the more common
beef] of that famous Indonesian soup, Rawon. The broth becomes
black from the rawon nut [keluwak] which creates the wonderful
rich taste. It is served with crisp tempe, salty egg, fresh
bean sprouts and basil leaves on the side with the rice.
The Krispy Chicken [or Duck] is very popular here. Your choice
of breast or leg, is cooked in ginger, galangal and turmeric,
then deep fried till very crisp] but I much prefer the Ayam
[or Bebek] Bakar. Again you can order leg or breast, either
way it has been marinated and comes from the grill coated
in a sticky sauce [the secret Javanese spice paste], the resultant
meat so tender and tasty.
There is also a variety of very simple vegetarian dishes which
can all be ordered as sides. Urak Arik Tofu is shredded cabbage,
cauliflower and carrot sautéed with egg, Truim is a
mix of green beans and carrots cooked in coconut cream with
a Javanese curry paste [very mild].
The Beef Ribs were a shock. Expected to be tough and chewy,
they were amazingly tender, and like everything else here,
full of taste! Served on a hot stone on a wooden board they
look like something from The Flintstones, but Fred never had
them this good!
Mondays and Thursdays are very special days at Warung Mendez.
On these days [for both lunch and dinner] the specially prepared
Goat Legs and Goat Ribs are available. Simmered first, for
a long time, they are then marinated in that special Javanese
spice paste before being grilled over fire when ordered. The
meat is so sweet and tender, the fact that it is also one
of the healthiest meats you can eat, is just a bonus.
The Goat Leg, Goat Ribs and the Beef Ribs can all be ordered
in three different portion sizes, so the lone diner can enjoy
a feast as well as the hungry groups.
If you crave fish, order the Lele [catfish] either BBQ’d
or fried crisp. Yes, I know there are small bones, but the
super sweet soft flesh makes the effort worthwhile.
Whilst there are many fresh fruit juices, teas and soft drinks,
the only alcohol served here is beer. If you want to drink
wine, then bring your own. It will not be served in a crystal
glass but you will only pay a very small corkage fee.
For dessert, a Javanese Crème Brulee [Sarikaya, coconut
cream, egg and palm sugar dessert with roasted cashew nuts]
or Dadar Gulung, 4 small soft crepes stuffed with young coconut,
jackfruit, palm sugar and a taste of pandanus leaf. A refreshing
end to the evening’s feast!
Yes it is only a small simple warung, but it has clean bench
seating in the main room and a lounge setting in the side
alcove. The staff are locals and not very experienced, but
everyone is friendly, even chef will stop and talk to you
describing his recipes, even if that proves to be to the detriment
of quick service, but that is just the way this place works!
Go to relax and enjoy the tasty food, and then be amazed at
the low cost!
Take all the bones home to the dog and you will have a friend
for life!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Warung Mendez,
Address : Jln. Penestanan,
Penestanan,
Ubud.
Telephone : 973.076
Open : Lunch from 11.00 a.m. dinner from 5.00 p.m., daily.
Parking : Small area in front and on the side.
Price : Rp. 100.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : None
Food : Yogyakarta cuisine
Wine : BYO
Service : Friendly, laid back.
Atmosphere : A simple warung.
Overall : Great taste, value
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual
visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge
of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual
restaurants.
Opinions Mexpressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not
necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts
to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective
and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria
overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
