Bali is going through an amazing culinary journey. Not that
many years ago the food offerings in Bali were mostly devoid
of taste and value, both locals and foreigners operating ‘restaurants’
that they believed presented cuisines of the world. Only one
thing was missing, and that was the professional knowledge
that can only come by experience, having been trained at the
highest level.
The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. As many
as can often be found in cities four times its size. Most,
of course, work in the ever-increasing number of 5 star and
boutique hotels and luxury villa complexes that seem to be
opening almost monthly, all over the island. Others are finding
their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their
own, at both ends of the scale, classic dining down to great
value mid range dining. As important is the ever increasing
number of experienced restaurateurs who are arriving, to drive
the revolution!
The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists restaurants
of some 54 different cuisines, the majority of which present
high quality food at an amazingly low cost. During 2007 another
85 new restaurants opened in Bali that were of sufficient
interest and quality to feature in my regular column in the
Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of
them.
Because of the high concentration of large 5 star hotels in
the Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa area there has always been
a lack of outside credible options. Needless to say many of
the hotels have 5 or 6 outlets offering a variety of cuisines
in order to keep their guests on the premises. The old city
used to offer a range of moderately priced options, to tempt
guests outside of the comfort of their hotels. This area suffered
most from the Bali calamities, earlier in the decade, and
only now shows signs of new life, but their entrance from
the Nusa Dua hotel complex had currently been sealed off.
At The Bali Collection one of its better restaurants, Tepi
Laut, has moved recently to a more prominent position close
to the main entrance, changed its name to Gedong Cafe and
presents great value high quality cuisine. Their Giant Seafood
Grill is one of their most popular offerings. In the old village
the new Laguna Garden is typical of most, offering many different
cuisines, what we call a tourist menu. Originally all menus
in this area were in 3-4 languages, now almost without exception
a Russian translation has been added.
At one of the newest hotels, Nusa Dua Novotel, which borders
the golf course, is The Square, which considering the name
is a strangely oval space with quite a range of modern and
innovative cuisine at very reasonable prices for a hotel,
Pomegranate-glazed Quail an example. Down in Tandjung Benoa
is Lucky Duck, which not surprisingly features duck on the
menu, done many different ways. Whilst the Duck Burger and
the Duck Pizza are most unusual, Roast Duck, Confit of Duck
and a Grilled Duck with an orange glaze are far more traditional.
There is also their version of Ubud’s Crispy Duck.
Tuban saw the arrival of old Kuta stalwart, Mini. Almost as
big as the still functioning original but modern, clean and
sparkling. This Mini has the same menu mix of live seafood,
grilled or pan-fried, a myriad of accompanying dipping sauces,
and a full menu of Indonesian Chinese favourites, all at reasonable
prices. Their Mixed Seafood Special of Prawns, Fish, Crab,
Squid, Clams and Lobster meat at Rp. 94,000++ is a showstopper!
Ifiori opened on the site of the ill-fated Wet, in Jln. Kartika
Plaza, in front of Waterbom Park. It is a two level restaurant
offering good value Italian food, and under the same management
as Pappa’s in Legian. Further along at the Ramayana
complex is Gabah, which was initially under the direction
of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola].
At Kuta all of the restaurants that opened were out on the
new Bypass, Sunset Road, although many of those who originally
opened there have already closed. The later ones are more
grand and with more experience behind them. Sushi Tei is a
branch of Japan’s largest Sushi franchise which includes
the first sushi train in Bali. The a la carte selection is
enormous, some traditional others modern and with unusual
combinations. The Grill House is Korean and features Bulgogi,
marinated beef that you cook at the table, or you can grill
Modemgui [Japanese style Shasliks], Sweet Beef or Pork Ribs
[Doeji Galbi] on the grill in the centre of your table.
Harmony looks like a Chinese restaurant and it is except that
all the meat [beef, pork, duck and chicken] and seafood [fish,
prawns and squid] dishes are vegetarian versions thereof.
They are all made from soya bean but presented as the real
thing, and in many cases with the authentic sauces and flavouring
they almost deceive. There is Beijing Smoked Duck, Babi Panggang
[roasted pork], Cumi Tong Yam [squid with a tangy Cantonese
sauce], and even imitation sardines, Ikan Sardencis with chilli
and tomato, which happens to be just about their most popular
dish.
The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants,
some totally new but most replacing previously failed ones.
The Chat Café, under the guiding hands of Marinos [ex
Mykonos Tavernas] led the way with a café/lounge bar
that worked from the first week. Apart from cheap tasty food
they also offer free internet, as do an ever-increasing number
of cafes and small restaurants in Bali, though so far mostly
in the Seminyak and Ubud areas. Just down the road is Café
Marzano, totally Italian, featuring wood-fired pizzas, pastas
galore and many Italians.
Nirvana opened on the site of the old Spy Bar, a stylish bar
at the front and French restaurant in the rear garden courtyard.
Across the road was the immediately successful San Marco Osteria,
which closed prematurely due the tragic sudden death of Mr.
Sin.
On the main road the old Afghan restaurant re-opened as Kholifar
with similar offerings of Middle Eastern cuisine such as entrees
of Lahem Bilajeen [three crisp fried pastry shells stuffed
with a spicy lamb mince], mains of Chicken or Mutton Vegetable
Korma [with onions, potatoes, green chillies, garlic and ginger,
all slowly cooked] or a high fibre vegetarian dish, Chole
Maslah [chickpeas, tomato, onion and garlic]. All to be enjoyed
whilst seated amongst Arabian and Persian carpets. The Swedish
Veranda became the Brazilian Rio [under Finnish management]
offering a full Brazilian Churrasco [5 salad starters followed
by 7 different meats all cut from the giant skewer, after
being cooked in the flames. Includes a Pork in Marsala and
a perfect Australian tenderloin, as well as an interesting
selection of a la carte items.
Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of
which have already closed. Those remaining include Med with
a Pecan-crusted Chicken with a honey orange cream sauce or
Moroccan Prawns with a tabouleh cous-cous and a spicy harisa,
and Sasa offering entrees such as Sepplioline alla Griglia
con Patate e Insalata [grilled baby squids served with a warm
potato salad] or a home-made pasta such as Fettuccine con
Gamberi [with king prawns with wine and herbs]. Café
Bali opened in colonial style premises next to big brother,
Khaima, offering entrees from around the world.
Others on Eat Street included Fresh, a sushi bar operated
by the ex-manager of the very popular trendy Wasabi of a few
years back [extraordinary California Rolls wrapped around
Foie Gras, duck liver and mango with hazelnuts, as well as
other options including Spicy Butterfish or Salmon, Scallop
and Cream Cheese]. Mezzo became only the 2nd on the street
to offer cool air-conditioned premises as well as the first
with a rear garden courtyard. It has simple food well presented,
including very cheap full breakfasts, and special coffee blends,
including Ethiopian, making it a place to constantly return
to.
Grocer & Grind provided something very different with
its very Australian bistro style and accompanying deli. Normal
egg breakfasts; Benedict, Florentine or just Eggs with choice
of bacon, lamb sausage, mushrooms or rosti. For lunch; snacks,
salads or a perfect Panini on Ciabattini. Dinner is all change
with casual bistro dining such as their Prawn Cherviche, juicy
prawns tossed with sliced mango in coriander, meaty Lamb Sausages
or large very tender Lamb Shanks.
In the Sentosa Villas was Blossom, something so new for Bali!
From the designers of Australia’s trendy Longrain restaurants
there are similarities but this one has style and class! It
began with wonderful Thai food from Will Meyrick and quickly
established itself as one of Asia’s finest! Within a
few short months Blossom achieved what many others fail to
do at all, yet a management decision saw the departure of
their chef. A ready replacement was fortunately available;
Chris Patzold, well known to Bali’s diners after being
the original chef at Ku de Ta [back when the food was both
great and cheap] and subsequently at Axiom. The most popular
Thai offerings have been retained but now with the addition
of the Patzold signature dishes. Best of both worlds!
On the Petitenget side was Eropa Warung with French food at
warung prices and Da Margherita with classical Italian dishes,
also very reasonably priced. Dahana, still a secret to most
in Bali, was the surprise of this area. It is a private house
and gallery that hosts a family-style Japanese restaurant
in a garden setting. Almost hidden behind a white wall and
private entrance.
Around the back of the Kerobokan Jail a totally authentic
Hungarian restaurant to be found, Bistro Budapest, featuring
Gulyasleves [Goulash] in every form. The famous soup combines
beef, carrots and potato in a rich paprika broth, but there
are also many forms with stewed meat; Sertesporkoct [pork],
Paprikascsirke [chicken], Marhaporkoct [beef], and for the
vegetarians, Gombaporkoct with mushrooms.
Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of Kowloon, quickly changing
its name to Feyloon. Genuine Cantonese food, specializing
in seafood from the many live tanks around the walls.
Sanur continued its revival. New restaurants such as the Russian
Slavyanka offer a new variety in fine dining [Shaved Frozen
Venison with a pinch of salt, Caviar of every type, Chicken
Livers with apple and onion and the Ukranian Borsh [a hearty
soup of pork, potatoes cabbage, onion, carrot and beetroot].
SixPoint opened with a very International menu [they are an
offshoot of Papa’s] that included Grilled Turkey Breast.
Coriander has a range of Thai cuisine, Red and Green Curries,
Tod Mun Pla [fish cakes], Yum Neau [seared marinated beef
strips with cooling cucumber], among its International offerings.
Piccadilly replaced the long gone Mykonos, more of a pub than
restaurant. The Porch Café offers wonderful sandwiches,
salads and small daily specials.
The revolution in Ubud slowed to a walk. No wonder with so
many new places opening over the past 5 years. In Sanggingan
Man Maru opened, mainly Japanese [wonderful terryaki] with
a few spicy Korean offerings [sliced lotus bulb]. Up on the
hill at Penestanan was one of the finds of the year. Mendez,
longtime personal chef for Warwick Purser, opened his own
small warung offering Goat Legs and Beef Ribs, using old Yogya
recipes, simmering for hours then marinating in Javanese spice
pastes. Sweet tender meat, wonderful value in simple surroundings.
$10 for two, what value!
Candi Dasa continued to slowly get its act together. The revamped
Rama CandiDasa opened Garpu, under the direction of Patrick
Chauchereau [ex Lola]. At that stage the food presented was
quite exceptional, wonderful breads baked on the premises,
pates en croute, etc. Now we wait with baited breath for the
opening of Patrick’s new bistro restaurant in Seminyak,
Feb 2008! A quiet achiever in the northern part of Candi Dasa
was Aquaria, a New Zealand operation with just a choice of
two dishes, entrée, main and dessert, for lunch and
dinner [one always a vegetarian option] at their pleasant
small boutique hotel. Simple food and great value in a pleasant
relaxed location.
Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally
operated warungs. The successful Wayan’s Warung opened
a 2nd, Café C’est Bon, opposite Santai, TPC became
Maharasti II, the rebuilt Vienna Beach now offers a smart
restaurant with new immaculately clean kitchen, and some of
the best beach views in the area. For something completely
different another New Zealand operation began at Sails [eventually
to be a part of the Horizon Resort], on the headland between
Lipah Beach and Lean. It has sensational ocean views. Some
Western [Steaks and Ribs], some Indo Chinese [Chicken Mandarin]
but all cooked a little different from other local places,
a cut above the rest!
Lovina saw the demise of a few and the arrival of a whole
host of newbies; Amadeus has an Austrian influence, Wiener
Schnitchels and Goulash on certain days. Down at the beach
is a mall place with value, Tropis Bistro, with the chef and
menu from the old Kwizien [Pate des Ardennes, Steak Rocquefort,
etc.]. Surprising newcomer is Chonos, a BBQ restaurant with
a difference! A tray of lava stones are inlaid into the top
of smart wooden tables, seated above a gas ring. Order your
meats and show what you can do. This place is going to become
very popular! Congrats to people who dare to be different!
Once again, 2008 promises much. A new Thai restaurant, opposite
Gado-Gado, and a French Bistro with one of Bali’s greatest
chefs, both in Seminyak. To cap it all off the return of the
prodigal one more time, small selectThai, Vietnamese and Malay
Indian menus at Will Meyricks new venture [site of the old
Esmerada] in Jln Petitenget, Kerobokan.
Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains
the same!
Best New Restaurants – 2007
Best FineDining: Blossom - Kerobokan
- Sensational setting and food. Cuisine is a blend of Thai
and Contemporary Australian [Mod OZ].
Best Restaurant: Grocer & Grind - Kerobokan
- A Bistro and Deli, all the way from Australia. Breakfast
and snacks during the day, great dining at night!
Best Value: Rio - Seminyak
- Brazillian Churrasco, large slabs of marinated meat speared
on a sword and cooked in the flames, all for $15.
Best North Bali: Chonos - Lovina
- Innovative Table BBQ upstairs in main restaurant. Many Dutch
treats downstairs in garden poolside cafe
Best Café: Chat Café - Seminyak
- A lounge bar and a cool, clean café, all with free
internet access. Snacks, meals and drinks all very cheap!
Best Cheapie: Warung Mendez - Ubud
- A Chef from Solo, with recipes from Yogyakarta. Good meat
[and local beef] specially prepared....so tender, so tasty,
so cheap!
