You see them in period movies. You read about them in books. Grand old homes that have foyers bigger than a normal house, twin staircases spiraling upwards around a chandelier that hangs from the ceiling. A grand piano sits on the side of the room. They are old fashioned mansions.
A new version of same is The Mansion, in Penestanan, Sayan, just outside of Ubud. It is a grand home set in magic landscaped grounds. At their restaurant off to the left of the foyer, Indochine, you are in the stately dining room, the well spaced tables offering both privacy and garden views. You can pretend that you are dining with friends in your own grand mansion!
Vietnamese is the main cuisine, although there are French and general International offerings as well.
Goi Cuon has become very popular in Bali with many cafes and restaurants doing their own particular versions. They are normally just referred to as Vietnamese Spring Rolls, and are fresh rice paper wrapped around an assortment of fillings. Some even have the correct nuoc nam [Vietnamese fish sauce] dipping accompaniment. At Indochine they are presented very differently; the roll is laid out across the plate and stuffed with a combination of chicken, prawn, lettuce, bean shoots and herbs, covered with nuoc nam and sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Unlike the café versions this one requires a knife and fork, rather than being finger food.
Bahn Cuon is a similar roll that has been steamed, and is closer to what is generally seen around Bali. The filling is ground pork, ear mushrooms, carrot and coriander. Prawn meat wrapped around lemongrass sticks is another Vietnamese special although here is done different from the traditional with a few Balinese spices added. A Glass Noodle Salad is tossed with prawns and coriander and nuoc nam, very refreshing!
Bho Ko is the traditional Vietnamese beef stew, here served on puff pastry with glass noodles, the meat pieces have an intense flavour with a pleasant lingering aftertaste of cinnamon. The Bo Luc Lac is chunks of prime beef that has been glazed with a black pepper crust. Ca Chung can have either fillet of snapper or chicken breast as its base, before being cooked in a spicy red curry paste.
The Consomme is a beef bouillon, floating on top is a ravioli stuffed with foie gras. The Quail Salad is most intriguing; boiled quail eggs that have been crusted with a pomegranate glaze, break them open and the centre is liquid gold. I could keep on eating these forever. Duck Livers are served on a bed of caramelized apple with a raisin apple sauce. A hearty Seafood Chowder combines prawn, scallop and salmon with potato, leek and the aromatic flavour of fresh tarragon.
There is also a French connection. The Beef Medallions are in a Cabernet jus, the Crab is gratinated and served on the shell. However most of the menu is modern combinations of all the major cuisines. Tasmanian Salmon fillets are with pressed herbs and a balsamic sauce, the Escalopes of Pork are lightly pan fried, with a sauce of crisp apple scented with cinnamon. Fillets of Snapper are with preserved lemon and a basil risotto and a sweet pea relish.
The Rack of Lamb has been roasted in the oven whilst the Saltimbocca is medallions of veal loin pan fried and served with honeyed ham on a bed of pureed potato, a garnish of sage and relish of Brem [Balinese rice wine].
Duck is presented Ubud style. Cooking is a two stage process, first steamed with spices under pressure, then fried till crisp. There is a Seafood Platter of mixed grilled fish and crustaceans.
A variety of desserts finish off this dining experience. It can be a Vietnamese Crème Caramel, a blend of butter, brown sugar, milk and egg with fresh cream, strawberries and orange zest. The Pannacota is wonderfully light, a light mousse of fresh cream and coconut milk topped with a wild berry garnish and a tangy raspberry sauce.
The recommendation for a first visit to Indochine is to partake of their special Tasting Menu. It comprises a well balanced selection [8 courses for dinner, six for lunch] of Vietnamese dishes including a few that are not even on the main menu.
Very refined dining!
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Indochine
Address : The Mansion,
Jln. Penestanan,
Sayan, Ubud.
Telephone : 972.616
Open : Lunch and Dinner, daily.
Parking : Secure, within grounds.
Price : Rp. 900,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards.
Food : Vietnamese +
Wine : Medium list.
Service : Unobtrusive
Atmosphere : Tres elegant!
Overall : Refined Dining!
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
