During the early 90’s the top International 5 star hotel chains began to bring their experienced Executive Chefs to Bali. Young Balinese worked with them in the kitchen. Those who were capable and willing to learn have since progressed to senior posts of their own.
10 years ago quality professionals began to set up world-class restaurants outside of the protective custody of a major hotel. Kafe Warisan was the first, many others were to follow. Again, young Balinese chefs have had the privilege to work beside some of the world’s greats. The few who could stand the pace, and accept the discipline are now breaking out on their own. In the decades to come this will have become a common occurrence, but these are the first. The beginning of the Bali Revolution!
Such a chef is Wayan Sudarsana. After beginning in the kitchens of the Grand Hyatt he progressed through the ranks at Mozaic, working with master chef Chris Salans for more than 6 years, Wayan is now doing his own thing at CasCades, the fine dining restaurant that sits atop the Lembah Valley, above the Petanu River at The Viceroy, Ubud’s super luxurious villa complex. Customers refuse to believe that there is no Frenchman in the kitchen.
The amuse bouche [literally ‘amusing to the mouth’], that bite-sized morsel that precedes the meal, sets the scene. A delicate piece of fish, described only as ‘sushi fish’, a taste treat. The mouth waters with the thought of what may be yet to come.
Glazed Sweetbreads sit on a small salad of pomelo and scallions, a mousseline of carrot, orange and saffron makes a tasty pyramid on the side of the plate. The sweetbreads had been perfectly trimmed showing good kitchen techniques, a fine dining treat. Other options include Seared Scallops with Star Anise, Wagyu [thinly sliced beef with toasted sesame seeds and teriyaki sauce], Zucchini Blossom [marinated with Thai curry and goat cheese] and a Bering Sea King Crab Salad [with a wasabi mayonnaise, braised shiitake & wakame cannelloni].
Everybody these days does Seared Foie Gras. Wayan at CasCades is no exception but here it is served with river prawns and a Xocopili [salty spicy chocolate] mousseline, or you can have their Foie Gras Terrine. But one of the greatest dishes at CasCAdes is chef’s creation of Foie Gras and Quail. Small pieces of quail meat are combined with foie gras in a pattie wrapped in superfine phyllo pastry, a scattering of Cajun Morello Cherries and syrup on top and beside. Unique!
Salads are standard [Caesar, plain or with chicken or salmon] or exotic; Marinated Octopus or Fresh Prawns [with avocado, capsicum, Spanish onions and mixed greens]. Soups are basic, but with a twist. That wonderful chilled Spanish creation, Gazpacho becomes a thick chunky version, but with a fresh prawn swimming inside. Another chilled soup is their Cauliflower with a couscous of Ikura [salmon roe] and cauliflower. Mushroom Soup has a shiitake and truffle veloute with quail egg on tartufata toast with chives. The Prawn & Saffron Bisque is with avocado and lemongrass-galangal. Flavour everywhere!
Australian Lamb Loin is wrapped in nori seaweed inside Phyllo pastry, on the side a round cake of Gratin Dauphinois [that wonderful French dish of thinly sliced potato, first boiled in milk then baked in the oven with cream and cheese]. Char-Grilled Tenderloin of Beef is from the Australian Black Angus, served with tarragon butter and a ragout of organic vegetables and eggplant. The Duck Breast is French, dribbled with Grand Marnier whilst the Veal Chop is with crisp Parma ham and baby potatoes.
Fish should always be handled with care, over-cooking being far too common in Bali. Mahi-Mahi, the most reliable of all local fish in Bali, is just pan seared. It is served with a simple spinach risotto with a touch of gorgonzola. Tasmanian Salmon is given a similar light searing whilst the Blue Fin Tuna is left completely raw, just tossed with wasabi mayonnaise and mixed greens. Lobster is done the old fashioned way, Mornay [béchamel and cheese] and is served with a lobster jelly, a potato nest and a green side salad.
Are you a dessert freak? There is plenty to choose from here. Ivory Fruit Cake is frozen white chocolate mousse sitting on a wedge of cake topped with a sauce of local passion and other fruits. Their Chocolate Orgasm combines Araguani dark chocolate fondant with chocolate ice cream & cocoa Viennese. The Souffle is laced with Grand Marnier, but a simple alternative is the Frozen Jivara Parfait with Morello cherries, cherry compote and a sesame biscuit. For me I cannot pass the excellent Cheese Platter, the freshly baked walnut bread almost good enough on its own without the extensive cheese selection.
An extensive wine list and young professional waitstaff who actually know how to serve it, add to the sense of occasion when you dine at CasCades, surely one of the most impressive dining locations you could find anywhere.
p.s. and it is only $60 p.p., not the $150 this level would command in any major city of the world.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : CasCades
Address : The Viceroy
Nagi Village,
Ubud
Telephone : 972.111
Open : Lunch and Dinner
Parking : Secure, in resort grounds.
Price : Rp. 1.200.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards.
Food : French
Wine : Extensive list.
Service : Smooth and silent.
Atmosphere : At peace with the world!
Overall : Sheer class!
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
