In the last issue of The Bali Advertiser we broached the subject of talented emerging young Balinese chefs, and in this two part series highlight the two current star performers.
The second example is Ida Bagus Mardita, who is now performing miracles at The Living Room, Kerobokan’s famous garden restaurant. Beginning in Bali at Le Meridien after which he was for 3 years at Mozaic working with Chris Salans honing his skills.
The new menu at The Living Room is a blend of Modern French and International, but all with an Asian touch. A Shiitake and Wakame Seaweed Cannelloni is Asian fusion at its best, combined with crab meat, wasabi mayonnaise and salmon roe. Frogs’ Legs are sautéed, deglazed with white wine and lemon juice and served with potato Laptkes. Beef Carpaccio is marinated in an oil of wasabi and miso with black truffle emulsion and Grano Padano [Parmesan without the smell].
Grilled River Prawns [three large juicy ones] are left with their tails intact, the flesh having been dipped in a mild Madras curry before being served, arriving with a tasty small coconut marshmallow. The Tempura is of soft shell crab and sits with a black ink linguini. Pan Seared Foie Gras alone is not enough for this menu, here it comes with Ahi Tuna and gingered sushi rice.
That is the style of the new Living Room. Exotic flavours abound! Even the soups steer clear of the mundane with modern twists and variations to old standards. The Cream of Asparagus has a black truffle emulsion, Tomato soup is served chilled with a crisp Bok Choy-ginger pallet and a fillet of red mullet, and the Pumpkin Soup is combined with a Thai green curry, prawn and bread dumplings and topped with a coconut milk foam.
Duck Leg Confit sounds as French as you can get, but here it goes International with spicy coriander chutney and a Swiss potato roesti on the side. The Duck Breast is topped with an orange-ginger sauce and served with caramelized nuts and crisp pastillas. Marinated Baby Chicken is with harissa [a hot red pepper paste from North Africa], coriander, couscous semolina, babaganoush, chick peas, raisin and pine nuts. I have often wondered why shoulder cuts [veal, lamb, pork] are not used more, maybe because of an aversion to kitchen time of long slow cooking? At Living Room the chef adds 8 different spices to the mix when preparing a Lamb Shoulder [large tender chunks of meat that prove that a long slow cooking method has been used]. The Lamb comes with a patty of Pilaf rice [one of many modern dishes that originated in ancient Persia, ‘polow’, the rice being first browned then simmered in a seasoned broth].
Seafood features prominently on this menu, again usually with an Asian twist. Tuna is marinated in paprika and honey, then coated with sesame seeds and served with the most amazing accompaniments; carrot spaghetti, green apple and whole-grain mustard dressing. A fillet of Tasmanian Salmon is grilled with kecap manis and comes with mashed potatoes infused with wasabi, Grilled River Prawns are with bacon and parmesan ravioli. The Snapper Fillet is just pan seared, a hollandaise sauce with a vinegar jelly from Jerez, Spain [sherry country].
The Living Room is renowned for their desserts. Some guests have been known to visit for desserts alone after dining elsewhere, quite a recommendation! Some desserts are traditional, but usually with a twist, whilst others are modern creations. The Creme Brulee is done ‘fluffy’ and is accompanied by a salad of strawberries and coriander. The Chocolate Fondue is with a pineapple spring roll, mango sate, cream caramel banana, watermelon ice cubes, vanilla ice cream and marshmallow. A Baked Apple Fillo is stuffed with lemongrass flavoured apple, and comes with a cinnamon ice cream.
All the mains are priced at less than $20! That is cheaper than normal café main course prices in most western cities, in fact it is what you can pay for breakfast alone! And to think that some people still complain about the Bali restaurant scene. If this is not good enough for you, you definitely should be living somewhere else!
The Special Living Room Tasting Menu comprises 5 courses [your choice of Duck or Tasmanian Salmon for the main] and even includes Fois Gras, all for only Rp. 360,000++. The wine list here appears totally unaffected by the recent shortages, service is as friendly as ever, and the garden setting is unique, even for Bali.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : The Living Room
Address : Jln. Raya Petitenget 2000XX,
Kerobokan.
Telephone : 735.735
Open : Dinner from 6.00 p.m. daily.
Parking : Off street, secure.
Price : Rp. 600.000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : All major cards.
Food : French with an Asian touch.
Wine : Extensive wine list.
Service : Relaxed but professional.
Atmosphere : A garden party!
Overall : The food fits the scene.
If you want to carry on partying after dinner then move to the magnificent bar/lounge area, relax and enjoy another drink or three.
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
