Back in the 1980’s there were just a handful of restaurants in Bali that were of International standard, over-priced hotel food and less than hygienic warungs were the order of the day. The better stand alone restaurants that did exist were to be found in Kuta. Such a place was the Swiss managed Un’s, secreted down a back lane close to Made’s Warung, but known to all.
The same management has now taken over the delightful garden restaurant at the rear of the Umalas Hotel and Stables, in Kerobokan. Others have failed here, but this version is working well.
A variety of breakfasts lead the way. The Special includes the normal [juice, toast, eggs, bacon and hot drink] plus a chorizo, frankfurter and steamed tomato. Lunch is a very International mix. Vegetarian Spring Rolls, Thai style with sweet chilli sauce, a Duckliver Pate is framed with a mango coulis. There is a German Chicken Frikadelle, small patties of minced chicken and spices, very tasty, or a Swiss Salad [cheese, sausages, potatoes and egg with a Swiss cheese dressing]. Sausages Bernese are sausages, with a smokey flavour, filled with Swiss Emmenthal cheese and wrapped with bacon.
Lestari are very proud of their Pasta & Risotto menu, everything is made on the premises and all items are available for lunch, dinner and in-between. Ravioli leads the way with 5 completely different fillings; Rocquefort cheese with walnuts on a lemon cream sauce, ricotta cheese and spinach on salvia butter [butter with aromatic sage], Mushroom with champignon, onion, garlic and cream and a Spinach Ravioli filled with tuna. You can order a Special Plate that includes 4 or all 5 of these raviolis.
Their fresh Potato Gnocchi is done Napolitana style with simple tomato and basil. Risotto Rocquefort is with that unique French cheese, watermelon and broccoli. Other homemade pastas include Spaghetti [crab meat and oven roasted tomato], Penne [in tomato and chilli], Agnolotti [stuffed with beef bolognese] and Taglaitelle [with bolognese or pesto]. All the pasta is cooked perfectly ‘al dente’.
The dinner menu is a blend of International dishes with the emphasis on French and Swiss. It is also available for lunch if you feel like dining more grandly! Their Asian Wonton was a total surprise. Instead of the deep fried wonton I expected it was a pasta sachet stuffed with chicken confit, diced apple and chives surrounded by a tangy sauce, excellent! There is also a Vol au Vent filled with chicken ragout and champignons or Saffron Marinated Butterfish wrapped in nori seaweed as a part of a watercress and cucumber salad with pickled ginger.
The Entrecote takes pride of place on the main menu with its kitchen prepared Café de Paris herb and butter sauce and potatoes allumettes [straw potatoes]. Not far behind is their Lamb Shank, oven braised, very slowly, with red cabbage. The Poussin [baby chicken] has been deboned and the pieces herb marinated then baked till the skin is crisp, the flesh remains tender. A traditional Steak au Poivre is made correctly with a brandy and cream sauce but with pink and green peppercorns. Medallions of Pork Tenderloin are served on Swiss Roesti with a bunch of green beans wrapped in bacon.
Seafood is served simply or with a light sauce or herb that complements so as not to ruin the taste of quality fresh fish. Sashimi grade Tuna is cut into medallions and sits on a dill sauce with Thai jasmine rice. The Silver Dory is with lemon butter and the Butterfish is topped with black and white sesame seeds in a light garlic butter sauce.
A Swiss Beef Fondue Bourguignone provides beef tender loin, cubed so you can cook at the table on the long fork and dip in 4 different sauces, just do not forget to change forks, between the cooking one and the eating one. However Fondue can only be ordered for a minimum of two persons.
The Lestari BBQ is free flow and includes salads with a variety of dressings, Tenderloin of Beef, Medallion of Tuna, Chicken Breast, Frankfurters and Chorizo sausages with baked potatoes, and many different sauces. There is also a small selection of Indonesian dishes, particularly for those mixed groups, headed by a Beef Rendang with plenty of spice. Gulai Babi is pork in a Balinese curry with crisp tempe and a potato bergedel.
To finish the Swiss Toblerone Chocolate Mousse is a must! It is served with a tangy berry coulis as are the Sour Cream Blinis, but they are also with a white wine sabayone. Crème Catalane is different, vanilla cream with shavings of orange and lemon peel, caramelized before serving.
For an evening with a difference you can enjoy a romantic dinner at Lestari, stay overnight at the Umalas Hotel before a morning breakfast beside the swimming pool. For those with the skill or desire, an afternoon’s or an early morning ride on horseback can also be included. To cap off a pleasant dining experience it is a surprise to discover that all prices on the menu are inclusive of all tax and charges. The sign of a professional who is proud of what he offers, why cannot everyone do that? It was a nice finish to a visit to the secret garden.
QUICK REVIEW
Restaurant : Lestari Grill & Pasta
Address : Umalas Stables,
Jln. Umalas Lestari,
Kerobokan.
Telephone : 792.6375
Open : Breakfast, lunch & dinner.
Parking : Opposite stable complex.
Price : Rp. 500,000 for two [+ drinks]
Credit Cards : Amex, Visa and Mastercard.
Food : French/Swiss.
Wine : Good list.
Service : Professional.
Atmosphere : A garden setting.
Overall : Eat in the secret garden!
Reviews that appear in Bali Advertiser are based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the knowledge of the restaurants, and are not paid for by the individual restaurants.
Opinions expressed here are those of Gerry Williams and not necessarily those of Bali Advertiser. Gerry Williams attempts to write from a ‘typical’ diner’s perspective and whilst quality of food is the most important criteria overall, value for money is the real measuring stick.
