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Heinz von Holzen: Bali Chef

How  would you describe your life?
 
I see myself as completely addicted to Balinese cuisine. I enjoy cooking and love the wonderful flavors of Bali, the fresh ingredients and the large variety of dishes available. Indeed, Balinese cuisine controls everything I do now  in the restaurant, in the cooking classes and in my work on a new book on the subject.
 
What  made you want to be a chef? Was it a childhood ambition?
 
I never thought I would go into cooking. Electronics and mechanics are both interesting to me. So, I started an apprenticeship as an engine designer. After 3-1/2 years alone in the office and totally bored, I walked out of this job. The next day I found an open position as an apprenticeship chef. I have loved every minute in the kitchen since.
 
How did you come to Indonesia?
 
Before Bali I worked for 5  years in Singapore with the Hilton and Hyatt. Hyatt then transferred me to Bali and offered me the challenging job of Executive Chef in the new Grand Hyatt Bali.
 
What is the concept behind Bumbu Bali?
 
I strongly believe that Bumbu Bali is the only real Balinese restaurant where diners can enjoy in an authentic Balinese setting the great flavors of our island. One other main feature is our cooking classes where we teach interested travelers the basics of Balinese cuisine. Overall, I guess it’s my ”mission” to tell the world that Bali has more than just ricefields and lots of great attractions and activities, but also a cuisine which ranks among all the other classic Asian cuisines. I would like to share with others my enthusiasm for this great cuisine. Just think about how much money has been invested into Thai, Chinese, Indian or Malay cuisines. Nobody seems to care to invest in our great cooking.  In Bali and in Indonesia it’s extremely difficult to find good local cuisine in a nice environment.
 
What’s special about Bumbu Bali?
 
In Bali, it seems that almost all restaurants serve similar lines of food. A bit of Indonesian, a bit of Italian, a bit of French and then of course cap cai. What is distinctive about our restaurant is that we only serve only Balinese food.  And because of this we have had a tremendous response. Without reservations it can be very difficult to get a seat in the evenings.
 
Your cuisine has been said to be a Western interpretation of the Balinese cuisine. Can you describe where you get your inspiration?
 
We serve 100% authentic Balinese cuisine. Unfortunately, Indonesian as well as Balinese cuisine is extremely difficult to find (done the right way in a nice environment) and if you find it, then in most cases the dishes are not prepared with a lot of care. My main inspiration has come definitely from the great people of Bali, who also helped me collect our most popular recipes. Let me just mention just one inspiring influence. Bapak Lother Arsana, currently the Executive Chef at the Grand Hyatt in Bali, was one of the finest chefs I have ever worked with. His tremendous knowledge on the cuisine and culture of Bali were extremely instrumental in getting all the recipes completed for my book on Food of Bali, which I wrote and photographed in 1992.
 
What is Balinese cuisine?
 
Fresh, colorful, richly spiced and incredibly good. Here in Bali we have access to some very fresh produce. Like a Balinese housewife, we are at the markets 7 days a week. Vegetables are harvested the day before, pigs and chickens are slaughtered the same day, and fish we buy directly from the fishing boats when they come in early in the morning. Ninety percent of the spices we use are fresh and not dried like in Indian cuisine. Various chilies, galangal, turmeric, ginger, kencur, lemon grass and cloves are all still soft and fresh.
 
Since the day we opened Bumbu Bali, it was our commitment to present Balinese cuisine in its original form and what we serve today is 100% original Balinese. I think the only Swiss-my nationality - influence would be the discipline we brought to food preparation. The same recipes which you can view on our website are also used in our daily operations. The most important ingredients are the basic spice pastes (bumbu). These must be measured exactly to guarantee that each dish always tastes the same.
 
How did you go about finding the recipes?
 
In Bali it is extremely difficult to find Balinese food unless one is invited into a home or to a ceremony. Most street food is prepared by Javanese vendors. It’s funny but when I arrived here the Balinese chefs asked me how to prepare some of their local flavors. As we had 150 chefs on our team, we had lots of talent available. I organized a cooking competition among the chefs and asked them to prepare their favorite recipes from home. The result was fantastic and I was overwhelmed by the variety of dishes and flavors available. I then took photos of the prepared dishes and scribbled down the basic recipes. Shortly after I met a publisher who was interested in producing a book on the food of Bali. Prior to my compiling these recipes under one volume, no other recipe book was available on Balinese cuisine. This book, The Food of Bali, published by Periplus, became starting point in the development of Bumbu Bali. We still follow these recipes and use them also in our cooking classes.
 
As a chef, what motto do you live by?
 
I think to be a chef has to be the greatest profession on the planet. There are very few jobs where you find such deep fulfillment. But the biggest kick for me is always the costumer who takes a photo of our open kitchen, who comes up to me and says thank you for such a wonderful experience, and who leaves the restaurant so satisfied. 
 
What about the future?
 
My future is definitely here in Bali. Above all, we will continue the journey with Bumbu Bali. I also hope to participate in many upcoming gourmet food festivals around the globe such as those in St. Moritz, Singapore, Cape Town. I will continue my research on the many aspects of Balinese cuisine and hope to discover many more recipes from this fantastically tasty style of cooking. For example, we are currently working on interesting recipes for seaweed, honeycomb, eel, crab, mushroom in banana leaf, fried blood, banana stems, starfruit leaves and snails. Just wait until you try them! 
 
For additional information on Bumbu Bali Restaurant and cooking school, contact hvhfood@indosat.net.id, www.balifoods.com <http://www.balifoods.com/>  and www.indo-chef.com.
 
For anyone interested in being considered for Siapa, please contact : pakbill2003@yahoo.com
 
Copyright@2005 Al Hickey
 
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